boost flutter at wot along with sputtering

Looks like it's running a hell of allot better. What did you do?
took some wot fuel out and added 2 to 3 psi of boost. i shouldnt have to do this to run better. this started to run like crap out of the blue. did you see anything out of ordinary in the logs
 
The converter looks loose. Also looks like a little 2-3 shift flair.

ECM voltage looks a litlle low but most of us have the same problem with no real ill effect.

When are going to get a wideband?
 
The converter looks loose. Also looks like a little 2-3 shift flair.

I agree, but the 1-2 shift doesn't look the most promising either... Also look at the new log#2, and notice how the car doesn't pick up any MPH in 2nd gear!?!? From 28.427 sec. to 30.106 sec.


K.
 
I agree, but the 1-2 shift doesn't look the most promising either... Also look at the new log#2, and notice how the car doesn't pick up any MPH in 2nd gear!?!? From 28.427 sec. to 30.106 sec.


K.

It does the same thing in "NEW RUN #3" as well from 13.972 sec. to 15.171 sec.

I'd say you definitely have an issue there!!


K.
 
Ok... Pull up "NEW RUN #3" in graph form. Use TPS, Engine speed, MAF, & Vehicle speed as your 4 different parameters to look at. Go to the 15.051 sec. mark, which is frame #250 of #828.

There's something to that there... You're @ wot the whole time, but you have a slight drop in mph, a lack of rpm movement, and the MAF drop all leading up to & at that point. Then it looks like things clear up and the car begins to pull through it from there. The MAF clears up, MPH gains again, and RPM begins to pull again...


K.
 
Ok... Pull up "NEW RUN #3" in graph form. Use TPS, Engine speed, MAF, & Vehicle speed as your 4 different parameters to look at. Go to the 15.051 sec. mark, which is frame #250 of #828.

There's something to that there... You're @ wot the whole time, but you have a slight drop in mph, a lack of rpm movement, and the MAF drop all leading up to & at that point. Then it looks like things clear up and the car begins to pull through it from there. The MAF clears up, MPH gains again, and RPM begins to pull again...


K.

So strange enough it looks like it starts gaining speed and RPM immediately after the MAF takes that huge dip.

From the speed and RPM I can't see a discernable 1-2 shift.
 
So strange enough it looks like it starts gaining speed and RPM immediately after the MAF takes that huge dip.

Exactly...

aminga said:
From the speed and RPM I can't see a discernable 1-2 shift.

Look at the 1-2 shift on "NEW RUN #2". That is definitely not a quality shift!! "NEW RUN #3" is hard to tell how the shift plays out because of the lack of rpm and mph gain I pointed out in the above post. Maybe the tranny has something to do with it?!?!

No matter either way... In runs #2 & #3 the car does not accelerate any immediately following the 1-2 shift, according to the logs posted!


K.
 
as far as the flair in shifts the car just has a quick blip in shift. i cant feel no flair. also the number 1 and 3 logs are easing into it in third gear and it down shifts into second. no first gear runs. and the number 2 run has major traction issue from first to second that might be the flair as far as no mph gain that is from the car loading up and sputtering then picks up when the sputtering clears. i know i need a wideband. SOON
 
as far as the flair in shifts the car just has a quick blip in shift. i cant feel no flair. also the number 1 and 3 logs are easing into it in third gear and it down shifts into second. no first gear runs. and the number 2 run has major traction issue from first to second that might be the flair as far as no mph gain that is from the car loading up and sputtering then picks up when the sputtering clears. i know i need a wideband. SOON

That makes no sense on your graphs!! On run 1 & 3 tell me what frame# the downshift happens, because I don't see the rpm spike that should appear when that happens?!?!

And on run #2 if there was a traction issue at the 1-2 shift, your tires spin faster than the car is traveling, therefore both the rpm and mph would increase rapidly there. Your graphs are showing the opposite...


K.
 
That makes no sense on your graphs!! On run 1 & 3 tell me what frame# the downshift happens, because I don't see the rpm spike that should appear when that happens?!?!

And on run #2 if there was a traction issue at the 1-2 shift, your tires spin faster than the car is traveling, therefore both the rpm and mph would increase rapidly there. Your graphs are showing the opposite...


K.

you can see on 1 and that i am 30 plus mph. how can you tell about the sloppy shift. well any way i still have the sputtering issue in these logs that is where the mph goes down and levels off. WHAT CAN BE CAUSEING THIS
 
well now my car is stalling while i am driving and wont restart till it is completely cooled down. it sputters at 2000 rpm and up. i have msd wires should i put cheap wires on instead
 
well now my car is stalling while i am driving and wont restart till it is completely cooled down. it sputters at 2000 rpm and up. i have msd wires should i put cheap wires on instead

Brian I dont have 2 weeks to read this whole thread so i will ask if you have ever changed the wires? Bad spark plug wires will cause this. If that doesnt fix it sell the car....:eek::D
 
Brian I dont have 2 weeks to read this whole thread so i will ask if you have ever changed the wires? Bad spark plug wires will cause this. If that doesnt fix it sell the car....:eek::D
havent done it yet raining here. i will try my dads coil pack, module and wires from his car
 
Brian- My car did the same thing. It would not crank back up until cooled down , was the coil or module.It also spit and sputtered under a heavy load. I replaced both. You might have had some bad coil & module when you where testing before who knows. Try that with a new set of wires.
 
havent done it yet raining here. i will try my dads coil pack, module and wires from his car

Dont change more than one thing at a time. Just do the wires.

I fought with a miss/sputter problem on a big block olds 455 15 years ago. I changed everything....except my wires..... because they were BRAND new. It couldnt be the wires I kept saying but sure enough that was the problem.
 
coil pack

brian, i got extra coil pack, let me know, got the trans back in, ready to go to the track, let me know. ed z
 
Brian- My car did the same thing. It would not crank back up until cooled down , was the coil or module.It also spit and sputtered under a heavy load. I replaced both. You might have had some bad coil & module when you where testing before who knows. Try that with a new set of wires.
thanks khai i will try and let you know. i tried a brand new gm module and pack a while back. i guess it is still worth a try as far as wires i had new taylor wires on before and now put new msd wires on so i doubt it is the wires

Dont change more than one thing at a time. Just do the wires.

I fought with a miss/sputter problem on a big block olds 455 15 years ago. I changed everything....except my wires..... because they were BRAND new. It couldnt be the wires I kept saying but sure enough that was the problem.
yes i will try one at a time thanks

brian, i got extra coil pack, let me know, got the trans back in, ready to go to the track, let me know. ed z

thanks for the offer ed. i will try my dads since he is right here. glad to hear your tranny is done. did you go with a art carr pan? i ground my posts off on the bottom and put a 700 r 4 filter and type f fluid. boy does it shift hard and quick.
 
art carr pan

yes, art carr pan with the 700r filter, alto wide band, clutches, hp sevo,i used TMC transmissions in bloomfield, great price, and quality work, ask for john 412 682 1095
 
yes, art carr pan with the 700r filter, alto wide band, clutches, hp sevo,i used TMC transmissions in bloomfield, great price, and quality work, ask for john 412 682 1095

very nice cant wait to see you run. good luck
 
Brian- My car did the same thing. It would not crank back up until cooled down , was the coil or module.It also spit and sputtered under a heavy load. I replaced both. You might have had some bad coil & module when you where testing before who knows. Try that with a new set of wires.
tried coil pak, module and wires and it doesnt stall but it still sputters under hard quick wot runs. i guess it is either cam or valve springs. i still think i hurt the springs from over reving by not knowing it was in second and ran it to 7,000 rpm. because after that it started to run like ****
 
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