When converting a regular Regal....

Quick6'n'-K.C. said:
Take the t-bar clamps on the throttlebody and turn them away from the tb arm.
You might realign the clamp a year from now and it if interfears, the throttle willl stick open.

HTH

BW
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Not a big deal to flip the clamps around, but the no spark situation is giving me some problems.
 
Absolutely unbeliveable job you have done man. Congrats!! Looks awesome!
 
Looking good...sorry to hear some bitch hit you (I'm going to guess she was on her cell phone??)

Also hopefully your insurance didn't screw you over and just look at your car as a "regular plain jane Regal"....hopefully they saw the value of what a T type goes for....
 
OK, The winter has finally broke. Can't wait. I'm going to pick up the project at my brother's house today and try to get my exhaust hung and change the crank sensor this week.
 
Is it possible to switch the vin's and tell dmv you used the body and chassis as parts to replace the damaged ones on the T? I am planning on doing that to a WE4 T-top car soon.
 
LBNJWE4 said:
Is it possible to switch the vin's and tell dmv you used the body and chassis as parts to replace the damaged ones on the T? I am planning on doing that to a WE4 T-top car soon.
Click to expand...

Switching VIN's is illegal. Even if you switch the VIN plate the VIN is on many other parts that could not be switched. I would not recommend doing it. Besides the wrecked car has a salvage certificate and that is worth less than a transplanted car in my opinion.
 
You can use the VIN on another body. At least in Iowa you can. I'm pretty sure you can in California too. I've seen it done many times when people replace rusty bodies on their cars.
 
jdpolzin said:
You can use the VIN on another body. At least in Iowa you can. I'm pretty sure you can in California too. I've seen it done many times when people replace rusty bodies on their cars.
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That is what I am thinking, if both cars are not stolen, and the body is used as a replacement part.
 
Loaded up

ready to go
 

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Got a hood off a GN. That completes all the parts that I need, except a crank sensor. Hopefully I'll find the bug quick and hang exhaust.
 

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Well, I'm definitely hung up with an electrical gremlin. Can someone give me some advice on what sensors to change out, what diagnostic tools to use, and what anything else electrical to check? How do I set a crank sensor? Will the car run without the oil pressure sensor if I want to use a mechanical gage on fire up? Are there any websites that I could get a checklist or a run down of items to check for a "no start" situation?
 
You don't need the oil pressure switch. That is there in case the fuel pump realy dies. Redundancy. The crank sensor, needs to be set up with a feeler gauge ....blah blah blah. This is how I set mine up: I take a piece of cardboard(not corrugated), like from an oil filter box. Peel a few layers away so that it is a little thinner, maybe half thickness. Put it on the reluctor ring of the crank. Fold it over so that it is on both sides. Rotate it through the crank sensor, and when it is in the sensor, tighten it down. Then take the paper out,and rotate it to make sure that it doesn't rub. I have lots this way, and it always works great. The crank sensor has two slots on it, and for life of me, I can't remember which one to use. If you use the wrong one, it won't produce a signal and the car won't start.
Make sure the ECM is getting power, make sure your cam and cranks sensors are getting power, and are producing a signal.
What did you use for a harness? Did you swap out the entire harness, dash and all?
 
Brian, I swapped the dash harness and all. The engine harness looked OK except I had a connector hoop ripped off for the ground on the back of the passenger side head. I also did not realize that there were fusable links in the engine harness around the starter, which may be the reason for the lack of power to the heater fan. My scanmaster is alos not reading, so maybe there is not power to the ECM? I know I have power to the cam sensor, but I will need to check the crank sensor. I do have fuel pressure and the motor does crank with no spark.
 
The fusable links could be a big part of your problem. The ECM is powered by an orange wire near at the Pos battery cable, but I think that is just the memory wire. Check for power at all of the fuses and make sure they are all getting power.
 
I checked some items in betweeen rain drops today. I have power accross the ECM fuse. I have power on the orange wire from the Pos battery cable at the connection and at the computer. I also checked the pink wire at the computer and I have power. My scan tool does not read from the ECM. I have no power at the heater fan. I put a six volt battery on the heater fan and it turns. I ordered a Cardone Remanufactured ECM at the parts store 77-7148 today. I bought a new crank sensor to try out tomorrow when it is not raining.
 
Looks Good Pretty Soon I'll Be Doing The Same With My Buick Regal I See That You Got Your Fender To Line Up Pretty Good After The Removal For The Power Antena
 
I changed the ECM. My scan tool can read now, but no trouble codes and no start. I also found my MAF was cracked and I replaced it also. How would I check to see if I have a grounding problem in the wiring harness? I also have a new Casper Cam sensor cap, how would I check to see if the cam sensor is installed correctly?
 
RATROASTER said:
IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!:biggrin:
Click to expand...


Ive been working on my blue limited from 4pm to 10pm all week, got the engine put in monday and got it running friday at 530pm...
I too was chasing electrical gremlins, but thats pretty much the norm...

Your car looks great, cant wait for the new pictures to show up on the net


Off to BG in a few days

BW
 
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