windshield leaking

peterkin

..it isn't rocket science
Joined
Oct 2, 2001
how can i seal this, or how much would it cost to have it done? i have a puddle of frozen water in my passenger side floor in the back. the water has ruined my carpet in my car. it's been like this since i've had the car ( i know, i know ) and i need to get it fixed. it's never been this bad.

can i pop the molding off and run a bead of something around the windshield to stop this?

how much would it cost to have a windshield repair place do it?
 
Is it really the windshield or the AC box seal at the firewall??? If it is the floor board it might be the AC box seal is shot and the sealer GM pt at the top of the box is falling apart and allowing water to go inside. Also, if the drain for the AC box is clogged, it will fill up with water and then drain in the car at the same spot.... Just a little info...
 
I have the same exact problem, the water leaks in under the dashboard on the passenger side and runs to the back floor pan. I havent been able to find the cause of the problem to fix it yet and it has really been frusterating me. It started when I had my windsheild replaced last fall. It has since made the fabric on my headliner start coming loose! Someone please help save my floorpans.:rolleyes:
 
Remove the inside windshield trim and the glovebox door and get someone to start running a water hose around the windshield and in the outside vent for the AC box. You should see it eventually...
 
thanks fellas, i'll check the A/C box on the car when the snow melts and it get's dry here.
 
winshield adhesive doent just magically start leackng, the source of the problem is probably the box (the stuff gm used to seal it with really sucks). good luck.

-jeff
 
I had a leak above my rearview mirror and it leaked all the time so i decided since my insurance pays for front windshield (no deductable)freebie, my 3/4 wrench accidently hit my windshield a couple of times.....:rolleyes: oops.. they replaced it for free
 
Just for a little added safety, POR 15 your floor when the weather gets a little warmer so you don't have to replace your floor pan someday:D
Tarey D.
 
Warmer and more humid for the POR-15. POR-15 needs a mildly humid day so it dries reasonably quick. I did mine about a month ago here in Jersey (Inside my Fire Company's bay) and it was still tacky after a good 9 hrs so I had to push it out in the cold overnight. The next day it was dry though.

On the same leaking note.. I was going to start a new thread but maybe someone can answer this here. I have a T-Top GN and somewhere it leaks. I've been in there when it was pouring out and I saw the water trickling down the corner (where the floor/firewall meets the side of the car) and I don't know how to figure out where its coming from. Is this a typical track of a T-Top leak or a windshield?? It does come from both sides.. passenger more than the drivers which is also the downhill side. Anyway, I'm looking for ideas on how to isolate if its the windshield, heater box (which i think leaks too), and/or the T-tops :confused: :mad: TIA
 
My T tops used to leak till I installed my homemade rear seat brace and snugged up the tops, then it stopped. Now that I had my GN stripped and repainted we removed the old T top rubber mouldings and installed new moulding it leaks like crazy. Haven't got it right yet, I also will take any free advice any body has to offer.:(
Tarey D.
 
I had the same problem with my old Cutlass. Shops said it was fairly common and was the sealant around the windshield. I called around and most said the same thing. The windshield would have to be pulled and re-sealed. Also, they wouldn't gauruntee the windshield not to break on removal or installation so if it broke I would have to buy one. I didn't like the sound of that but I checked around and they all said the same thing. Best bet would be to just plan on installing a new windshield, it won't cost much more than the cost of R&R anyway.
Good luck with it.
 
Another thing to consider on the W/S leaks is the possibilty of rust and corrision on the header and pillars. Even though I dont have the snow to contend with down here one thing I noticed on every G-body I have bought in the last couple of years is that the cars that were driven daily had a tendency to start rusting along the drip rails from the inside out. I know it sounds strange and I really cant explain how it happens but one thing I noticed on one of my trips to the salvage yard is that even on the older A-bodies(Chevelle-Skylark) they also rusted bad on the W/S header. I even had one Regal that had a hole at the base of the right side pillar where the cowl meets. It was so small the only way I found it was when the windshield was removed. Eric Fisher
 
w/s for these cars are not very expensive because they were used on many differents cars. very seldome does a w/s break on the install, it is the removal that is the tricky part. but if u have it done, make sure u dont go the cheap route with someone like safelite, the chances are if you go cheap it will still leak :eek: .

-jeff
 
Top