What would cause my trap speed to drop?

"Turbo-T"

V6 on steroids
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Went to the track tonight and the car did poorly.

As I have found, I must sit at the light, hold the brake, and "wait" for the boost to build up. There is no instantaneous spool at the light that I can get a good launch on.

Yet once I get to 10-11 psi and let off the foot brake, the car then takes off like a bat out of hell.

And also cruising down the interstate I can stomp it and the car quickly gets out of it's own way.

People in the grand stands said "It puts on a great smoke show in the water box, but when you launch it 's like 'is he gonna go?' Then all the sudden you take off."

I am sort of thinking it's due to having a D5 converter and a TE-60 turbo + a Postons GN110T cam. I don't think my headers have a leak/crack that would interfere with boost build up.

The last time I raced my car it ran a best of 12.61 at 109 mph with a 2.00 60 ft. It's not spinning out of the hole either from what I was told last time by Sean (youlikethat). And that was foot braking, I think i may have had 7-8 psi as I had the old powermaster back then.

This time I have a hydroboost and I was holding at the line what I thought was 10 psi but my powerlogger (had it going) said it was more like 13-14 psi i was leaving the line at. (I find that hard to believe)

Anyways the best trap speed I had tonight was 106.01 mph. I ran a 12.88 on that pass with a 1.998 60 ft.

The best e.t. I had tonight was a 12.87 and that was at a trap speed of 105.82 and a 2.004 60 ft.

The only engine mod I have done between the last time I ran and this time, was I replaced the 36 lb injectors with a set of 60 lb injectors.

The only other mods I've done to the car was replacing the powermaster with a hydroboost and also i installed a line lock as to not heat up my rear brake shoes.

I do have a powerlogger of the last run if anyone wants to see it. I can also post the 4 time slips here too.

I've often heard it said you should tune for trap speed and then tune for 1/4 mile time.

Yet it seems I tool a few steps back instead of forward.

Not sure where I should start from here. Perhaps someone could please steer me in the right direction?

I'm guessing I need to ditch the D5 converter? I don't know how accurate this is but on my powerlogger I started recording before I brake boosted. As soon as the car began to move forward it showed my rpms were up to like 2700 or so. I don't believe I was spinning. I was running a set of M/T E.T. street drag radials, size 275/50 R15 and I had them set at 17 psi.

Maybe I could remove fuel? How can I look at the powerlogger and see if I have too much fuel on launch/brake boost?

My combo is mentioned in my sig.

Thanks in advance.
 
If you're rich down low, take some fuel out in the chip or lower the FP a few PSI. Your combo needs to have the air/fuel dialed in perfect since the converter is on the tight side. Leaning out the low end will help spool the turbo and get you out of the hole quicker. Take it from a guy who ran a T64E with a D5 converter.
 
Have you checked the puck assembly on the downpipe? Mine was spooling slow, and it was stuck. Had to lube it up with some anti seize...
 
I've not checked the puck but I will certainly will. How stuck was yours?

I've thought about trying to pull some fuel. I have a Turbo tweak 5.7 chip. I also have a Razors alky kit. I'm wondering if I should set it up to reduce alky?
 
Do you have the old time slip? I would double check barometric pressure, temperature and humidity --- these can all be a factor. Also was everything [all settings and levels] exactly the same as the last time? boost, fuel and alky?

Razors preset is 5psi.... so at 7-8psi staging at the lane - u are spraying ALKY and probably wayyyy to rich down low.... just a thought

aaron
 
Look cracks in the headers, etc.
 
Aaron, I long since lost the time slips I had. :redface: But yes pretty much all is the same as it was before.

Razors preset is 5psi.... so at 7-8psi staging at the lane - u are spraying ALKY and probably wayyyy to rich down low.... just a thought

Meaning I need to dial back the alky on a stage? Or would fuel be better?
 
Aaron, I long since lost the time slips I had. :redface: But yes pretty much all is the same as it was before.



Meaning I need to dial back the alky on a stage? Or would fuel be better?

i think it would be easier to dial in fueling then the alky.... i know there is "the Purple Wire" but i would talk to Julio about that:eek:

Next time let me know when you roll out to KCIR in advance, ive never been and would love to go [weather and work permitting:rolleyes:]

aaron
 
Hey David, x2 on the humidity! I think we have been in the 70s humidity. That will knock the heck out of the performance! Cars tune will go rich. P.S. missed you at the Belton show last night. Later. Bob.
 
The simple answer is you are down on power. Get a wide band in there and tune to 11.5:1 with good fuel and make sure the converter is locked. The 60' times are very poor. It's more than a converter problem if you were able to leave with 10psi and not spin. The te60 should have left hard from 10psi regardless of the converter. You should post your entire time slip.
 
The simple answer is you are down on power. Get a wide band in there and tune to 11.5:1 with good fuel and make sure the converter is locked.

Bison, quick question....you say to shoot for 11.5 on the wideband, but I've been told to shoot for 10.8 since I'm running on alky. Is 11.5 ok at WOT on an alky car?

You should post your entire time slip.

Here ya go...I'm car # 564
 

Attachments

  • Timeslips.jpg
    Timeslips.jpg
    39.9 KB · Views: 238
Was the 1.9/2.0 60' due to tire spin or the car bogging down? A 2.0 60' on drag radials is not very good. If it was tire spin, you would definitely know with a 2.0 60'. If it was bogging down, That could cause trap speed to fall. Possibility that the converter is broke. I had an art car that was doing the same thing. I could get it on some boost at the line after a bunch of time but it would bog the car down right afterwards. I think only a 20 MPH gain on the big end isn't the best either for what looks like a high 11 sec car. If the tires spun, usually you see a bigger MPH increase for 1/8 to 1/4. I'm going with the car is falling on its butt off the line. I would check tune, header leaks and converter in that order.

Can you post a screen shot of your data log? You should see tire spin in the rpm. They will go up real fast then come back down.
 
Here's the Powerlogger files from the last run, where I went 12.87 at 105 mph.
 

Attachments

  • track3.zip
    43.4 KB · Views: 52
Folks,

Were any of you able to open my powerlogger file and pair it up with my last time slip to see why I'm doing so poorly at the track?

Please advise. Planning on another track visit soon and want to do much better than a high 12 at 105 on a 2 second 60 ft.

Thanks in advance.
 
Bison, quick question....you say to shoot for 11.5 on the wideband, but I've been told to shoot for 10.8 since I'm running on alky. Is 11.5 ok at WOT on an alky car?
At your power level you can go leaner. If everything is working right like the converter and there is no other issues you should be running the mph you are at 17-18psi with around 22* advance. If I was tuning for power at that boost I'd be around 12:1 even with alky at that power level.
 
P.S. missed you at the Belton show last night

Hey Bob, sorry I wasn't able to make it due to work. I did come to the Blue Springs cruise but only 1/3 of the size crowd was there. A bit disappointing.

At your power level you can go leaner. If everything is working right like the converter and there is no other issues you should be running the mph you are at 17-18psi with around 22* advance. If I was tuning for power at that boost I'd be around 12:1 even with alky at that power level.

Thanks I will try and lean out the fuel some. Would I be best to do it just in 1st gear only or all gears?
 
Top