volt light on and audible detector staying on

cetme1

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
I had two problems develop today while getting my kids from school.

First was when I started my GN the Caspers audible knock detector came on and stayed on until I turned off the car. When I restarted the car the detector did not go off again. This happened for the first time last week. Same deal, came on, stayed on until I shut the car off and restarted. This has only happened twice.

While waiting on my kids to come out of school in park engine idling, I noticed my volt light on. I looked at my scanmaster and saw volts were going back and forth from 10.8-11.2

Are these problems related? I'm thinking alternator is about to go completely out, but is this connected to the Audible detector?

Appreciate any help.
 
look up Caspers Field-N-Fix harness ...something to get once you get it all figured out..
 
Before i knew about the volt light, (no light up of the volt meter of dash, indicates that there is no closed loop connection for the alternator to work, so the alternator wouldn't charge) When it the alternator wouldn't charge and voltage was getting low, the engine used to start running rougher, and a lot rougher as the voltage dropped. The extra, rough vibration is what was maybe setting your knock sensor off......just taking a guess.
 
Unplug the audible knock sensor and work on the volt issue. If your Scanmaster is reading that low, your alternator is most likely not charging or your battery is totally shot. Put a full charge on your battery with a charger and leave it for a day or so. Should have about 12.4V. If you do, then buy Casper's field fix and see if that clears it up. You should actually buy the field fix anyway and install it or keep it in your car. When my alternator went my volt light went on and my Scanmaster kept going down little by little from 11V to 7V until I got home (about 40 mile ride at night).
 
Low system voltage will affect the circuitry in the Audible and Knock modules. The circuits need a minimum of 10 volts to function normally.
 
Check the terminals, corrosion on the positive terminal caused a similar problem in my car.
 
Well I replaced the alternator and now my voltage is back up to 13.3-13.8 with lights, AC, and radio on, so I think that problem is solved. The alternator I took off was making a slight grinding noise when I turned the pulley, so it was bad. Strange I could not hear that while the engine was running.

The knock detector is not coming on and staying on anymore.

I think I will buy the Caspers volt light repair kit.

Thanks everyone for the valueable help!
 
Well I replaced the alternator and now my voltage is back up to 13.3-13.8 with lights, AC, and radio on, so I think that problem is solved. The alternator I took off was making a slight grinding noise when I turned the pulley, so it was bad. Strange I could not hear that while the engine was running.

The knock detector is not coming on and staying on anymore.

I think I will buy the Caspers volt light repair kit.

Thanks everyone for the valueable help!

Feels good to have it fixed. Remember that the Scanmaster reads about .5V lower than the actual volts at the alternator. Buy the field fix and your electrical system will be top notch. If you really wanted to bulletproof it (and since you are calling Caspers anyway) buy their fusible link relocator, bigger positive battery wire and ground locator:D The electronics in these cars can cause VERY weird and hard-to-diagnose problems.
And John makes some AWESOME stuff to boot.
 
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