Turbo Tweak Chip Question

G

gidyuppp

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2010
Ok, just ordered a street TT Chip and wondered what I need to do once I get it. I also ordered new injectors 30#, new MAF(stock), Billet AFPR, Newer stock Turbo with low miles, and having my DS header TIG welded. After installing all the above then I assume put the TT chip in? I have never messed with a chip before so what do I need to do to install? Beyond taking out and putting in? If the chip is being set to 16-18 max boost how do I know what boost I am running and how do I adjust it? The newer Turbo I am getting has an adjustable waste gate. I only had the car for 150 miles before I took it in 3 months ago for restoration. I am a so-so mechanic but have read a ton on the GN's lately. Are the injectors easy to do myself? Can I do the Turbo install myself? I am having the header put on by someone else and the MAF is a no brainer. Thanks for your help. Excited to get this thing going so I can put it away for 6 months:(
 
First make sure you have a way to measure knock. 18 psi sounds like allot for #30 injectors but I could be wrong. You'll need an aftermarket boost gauge to monitor your boost as the stocker only goes to #15 and it's not exactly acurate. As for the chip you just take your computer out and pull off the little cover on the bottom. The chip is right there. Touch a piece of metal (like the computer case) to make sure you don't have a static charge built up and then pull the old chip out and put the new chip in. I think TT ships his chips in a carrier so you shouldn't have to worry about that.
 
Thanks. Didnt know about the static shock on the chip. The boost level was the max the TT chip is set at, I wouldnt think I would run that boost. After all is set up in the car it is going for a professional tune to our local GN expert in Michigan.
 
1st... read the instructions with the chip. It will teach you alot in a few pages.

The wastegate rod should be extended to the point you barely need to pull it to get it on. That is a safe starting point to check your boost level.

You may be able to do the injectors. If you can change the plugs on the car you can do them. Use liquid hand soap to lube the o-rings. This will help prevent them from ripping during the install.

The turbo is a but more difficult only because of the rusty bolts. I'd say try it. Whats the worst that could happen? I'd replace the turbo oil feed line, be very gentle with the drain tube on the bottom and repalce the gasket there. Add a copper gasket between the turbo and the manifold. Most dont use a gasket here, just do it now because if you have any uneven surfaces there with the used turbo you're going to have an exhaust leak.

HTH
 
If your buying new injectors dont go small. Buy them once. 50 or 60# and have the chip burned for them. Otherwise youll be doing this again in a year or two.
 
Considering he may not want to build a 10 sec. car like some people, he will be fine. They will support 360 FWHP and he did just buy another stock turbo. If he went into upgrades replacing injectors, turbo, chips, are not needed. He could do, valve springs, alky, exhaust, tires, and get agressive on the tune and find himself in the low 12s with the 30's;)
 
Thanks for all the feedback it is quite helpful. At this point I am not looking for a 10 second car. Goal of 12.5 is fine for me. Just fast enough to beat the new 5.0. I just put 8 grand into a restoration and another now 1500 in newer engine parts. I just want a slight above stock performance. Current have a cold air intake, 3 inch downpipe and 3 inch new exhaust without cats. In a couple years or so I can save up some more money and make it a racer. Just want to enjoy the drive for a couple years and show it.
 
I hear what your saying, the only thing I'm saying is it's cheaper to buy a part once.... (I don't know of anyone running a 30# injector in there 86/87 motor)

Chuck
 
I ve got a nice set of 36 lbers and chip we just took out of a friends car-ran great-$200. Shipped for everything. ( satifaction guaranteed). When you put in a new chip disconnect the orange wire off the batterys positive side, this powers up the ECM and thus way the ECM will learn the new chips parameters.The injectors you can probably do yourself, unbolt the fuel rail, take the 10mm bolt out of the coil bracket in back, lift off fuel rail injectors and disconnect the wire harness for each injector then spin the injecto 180* and pull off the clip that holds the injector in top rail. Put light oil or other lube on o rings when reinstalling injectors. I always put the injectors in toprail first , turn them back facing out and slide the clips on then spin the injector around to the front side and clip on wiring harness connectors-just make sure the injectors are in on top and bottom before putting fuel through them. It's best to do this on a cold engine to avoid fires and I would disconnect fuel pump connector by tank before starting and running motor til it stalls to relief any fuel pressure in fuel lines.
 
What injectors is the chip for? Should've bought a TT chip/injector package and be done. Those are some small injectors.
 
84BuickGNYorkPA said:
I hear what your saying, the only thing I'm saying is it's cheaper to buy a part once.... (I don't know of anyone running a 30# injector in there 86/87 motor)

Chuck
Click to expand...

I agree he should have went bigger, at least 45.5#. Alky is a good idea if you have small injectors but not everybody wants to run it.
 
Once again, thanks for the feedback and I hear the injector situation. Quite honestly my long term goal with this car was to restore to original. I am not into track racing (I just sold a 2006 ZO6 to use the cash to buy the 80's cars in my signature. Ran 11.9 to 12.1 with the radio and air on. I had a 2001 SS camaro with 450 RWHP that the same. Its a blast but I am over it now and just want to enjoy my dream car from high school in a normal cruise and show fashion). I ordered the chip to help tune the car, new stock MAF, the wimpy 30# injectors, and a wimpy stock turbo with low miles. When I bought the car in April it had the 3 inch down pipe without cat and new stainless 3 inch exhaust. It sounds good so I will keep that, but would have preferred stock but the price on this car was right.

Thanks again for the advice, maybe I am a dumbass for buying stockish items for a better tune but I really dont intend to race at all. In two years, if I get the urge to race, I will buy a rusty racer and beat the hell out of it and not care.
 
most guys on this board (myself included) have big goals/expectations of HP. Thus the recommendations for big stuff.

For a good 12.50 tune, the stock size injectors are fine. The stock fuel pump is barely enough in my opinion for a reliable 12.50 tune, but your car most likely has an upgraded pump and wiring since they are a typical first mod.

The stock MAFs are not reliable, and the remanufactured stockers are a real crap shoot. Keep a watchful eye on that stuff.

Otherwise, a stock turbo will get you where you want to go, assuming the rest of the engine is in good shape.

You should get some sort of scantool, even if you just borrow an OTC, and a fuel pressure gauge, as they are basic equipment when tuning these cars.

Good luck with the project.

Bob
 
Cool. After all is intalled car going to Aggressive Auto here in Roseville Michigan for a professional tune. At that time I plan on getting the Scantool installed as I see on this board it is key to figure out what is going on even at a stock level. While at the body shop my stock Fuel pressure regulator started leaking so I did purchase a Kirban Billet Adjustable FPR with a fuel guage for the schrader valve. Thanks
 
Oh, and by reading this board and seeing the issues these cars have since so touchy, maybe having a smooth running stock car is a lofty goal :)
 
gidyuppp said:
.

Thanks again for the advice, maybe I am a dumbass for buying stockish items for a better tune but I really dont intend to race at all. In two years, if I get the urge to race, I will buy a rusty racer and beat the hell out of it and not care.
Click to expand...

Not a dumbass in my opinion, pretty smart. You knew your intended use and ordered the parts you needed for that. The gauge on the rail may never be accurate, but your tuner should set all that stuff and get you squared away.
 
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