Turbo & Ignition Experts, Come on In, Help a Buddy of Mine Out...

Ok now I'm a bit baffled. Decided that I needed some fun tonight and threw the exhaust back on the car at 10pm.. and the rocker arm that I had off to check the cam lift and timing. For my fun, I decided I would 'assume' that the timing in the MS was higher than what was actually happening at the distributor.

My butt dyno says the car would need about 12 degrees of additional timing to make the power it should be (this assuming that everything else about the engine was right but the timing was wrong). In the interest of preserving the engine I cut that in half and added 5-6 degrees of timing above 180 KPA between 3700 and 5400 rpm. Drove the car around, no detonation at all. Felt slightly better but I've been fooled before. Next I pulled over and added another 2 degrees of timing. This time I smoothed in the additional timing below 3700 and also between 100 and 180 KPA as well. The car seems to be coming alive now. It's not amazing yet but I actually felt a little impressed at the performance. This was with about 14.5 psi on the gate.

This puts me at "28.2 degrees" of timing at 4600 rpm and 15 psi. To me this seems excessive on 93 octane and 8.6:1 compression. Now the more interesting part... I looked at my data log expecting to see it a bit lean because of the additional timing. Instead I now show rich, very rich in fact. As rich as 10.2 and averaging about 10.6 in during boost. It seems some strange things are at work here.

Possibly it's been misfiring/not burning all of the fuel due to extremely retarded timing, which manifests itself as a lean condition and was addressed by adding more fuel... and now the correct amount of timing is burning all of the fuel, but the excess fuel is now creating a rich condition. With an AFR of 10.2-10.6, this could also be padding the timing a bit and preventing detonation. I'll have to be careful as I lean the tune.

The next thing is... if the above is the case, how could it be that 23-25 degrees is no where near enough timing at 15 psi? I mean to the extent that it would generate a misfire or unburnt fuel situation.

The only clue I have is in the setup of my megasquirt. Instructions for connecting it to HEI state to set the ignition trigger to 'rising edge'. My car will not run correctly at that setting, so it is at falling edge. In theory, this should be ok as long as your idle timing table matches a timing light, but perhaps triggering off the falling edge exponentially generates a late timing error as RPM increases? Not really sure how to verify my high rpm timing other then standing over it on the dyno! Not really what I like the thought of doing.

So the bottom line is it is responding 'ok' to additional timing. Once I get the fuel back to 10.9, it should make some more power. Will it be enough is the question.
 
I'm just catching up on this thread this morning. DO NOT give up on this. If you get tired of it, push it to the side for a while. Your very close to making this work. I feel it's just a matter of getting things set right. Your not using the ideal parts for this kind of power level so it's causing you tuning issues. You can work around it so don't give up.

I will assume your 02 sensor is reading properly. Your a/f is way to rich. It should be no richer than 11.5-1 at 15psi. I prefer it to be closer to 11.8 and then check the plugs to see if the engine likes it or not. The very rich a/f ratio is loading your ignition up and aggravating the miss.

Now on to the ignition system which is where I feel your major issue may be.

Do you know if the timing on the balancer matches what is in the MS system? If so, do you know how the rotor is phased to the cylinder?

Phasing means that your distributor rotor is lined up with each cylinders plug terminal at WOT. In your case when you roll the motor to 28* BTDC, your rotor should be perfectly lined up with #1 plug terminal. If it is not, you can get spark jump from one cylinder to the next.

I never use the factory distributors with boosted engines. I use an magnetic pick-up MSD billet distributor locked out for best timing control. Rotor phasing is everything with a turbo motor.

What was done to address the back pressure issues? The turbo is on the small side for the ci but should make the power you want to make. However, with only 125# on the seat, a backpressure issue will cause valvetrain issues and will limit power. Have you checked actual spring pressure at your installed height on a test bench or are you just going by the advertised numbers?
 
I just watched the last video you posted. Your exactly right, there is no way to verify your WOT timing on the engine matches what your commanding in the ecm. Get rid of the factory ignition system and you will know you have the proper timing. Do this before you blow the engine up.

I am not familiar with MS so I assume you will need a single pick-up distributor unless you need a cam signal, then you'll need a double pick-up. Make sure you get a distributor with a phaseable rotor.
 
I agree wholeheartedly with Dusty. If you don't know every aspect of your ignition system, you need to stop right now and learn every aspect of your ignition system.
Distributor phasing, like Dusty explained.
The accuracy between commanded and actual.
The degree of spark scatter at different rpm levels, if spark scatter exists.
KV levels.
I would also be careful with making 2 degree timing changes if you think you're close to the limit. I've seen changes in engine performance with just 1/3 of a degree of timing change.

Again, you should know every aspect of your ignition system before you go any further.
 
This is great info.. and I see your point with the aftermarket distributor, as I can adjust the pickup position separate from rotor. The spark needs the shortest gap in the mid 20's advance since that's where it will be when the spark has the hardest job to do. I do not have any idea where the rotor is relative to the terminal at a given timing position... but what you are saying gives even more weight to my concerns with the megasquirt setting for the timing event triggering. It is supposed to be on the 'rising edge' but only runs right on 'falling edge'. This means the distributor is probably physically more advanced than it would be on rising edge. Depending on what I find with the rotor position relative to the cap, it is possible that this causes increased distance between them at my timing range.

The turbo could be bigger, but I have mounting limitations and not asking for big horsepower from this car. I have no intentions of upping my ~500 rwhp plans.

Have not checked installed spring pressure.

I'm going to find a spare cap and drill some holes so I can see what the rotor is doing at various advance positions. Off to some more work now but I'll report back soon.. Thanks guys
 
Looks like my issue is with spark latency at higher rpm than idle. I bought a fancy digital timing light and discovered the following:

850 rpm - spark matches table
3000 rpm - spark timing error of -5 degrees
5000 rpm - spark timing error of -9 degrees

This confirms what many have suspected.. While my timing table claims 28 degrees, I actually only have 19 degrees at 5000 rpm. Now I'm pretty happy to know the car is running this decently at 19 degrees, and no wonder it was such a dog at 14 degrees.

I'm not sure if this is an issue caused by the factory ignition module, the MSD 6AL or the Megasquirt. Right now I suspect it is the combo of the Megasquirt and the oem module. It seems the factory ECM uses zero crossing on the reluctor signal in the distributor. The Megasquirt triggers on the rising edge or the falling edge. Since I'm on falling edge, it must be something to do with the shorter trigger pulse as rpm increases.

No joy with the Megasquirt 'spark hardware latency' setting either. Next I will bypass the MSD box to see what the oem ignition module does. Looks like I'm gonna have to borrow an MSD distributor or rewire to a crank trigger.
 
Looks like I have it under control for the moment. It was a combination of maxing the 'spark hardware latency' setting to 170 uSec, and reducing the 'maximum spark time' setting from 2.0 to 1.5 mSec. I think it would be wise for me to start looking towards a FASST of Big Stuff 3 for a more robust solution to this issue. My friend uses BS3 on everything and has not once dealt with any of the problems I experience daily using the MS3. Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to improve my ignition system this year for sure.
 
if the distributor pickup coil is connected backwards, the trigger pulse will happen on the wrong spot in the pulse waveform. So, you need to go back thru that. There is plenty of documentation on the MS stuff, but it is a DIY setup, so you need to validate every step.

But it sounds like you're making progress.
 
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