I was at a performance shop and had a peak inside the window of another customers GN that was there for service and noticed a really cool roll cage with quick realease door bars. They had a knurled aluminum or stainless sleeve that was spring loaded at the top that slid down to realease, At the bottom of the door bar was a hinge to allow the driver to get in and out without having to climb over the bar. Does anyone know who makes this style roll cage? Thanks.
Trick Roll Cage w/doors!
- Thread starter ttafan
- Start date
Dr.drivability
9 second wannabee
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2005
I am also interested in a cage of this nature. We are at the end of the season here in michigan, but I would like to have something for this spring. I commute with my car 80 miles a day and race it on the weekend, so I need somethihing safe and practical. The local track manager is letting me know "on the DL", that I am about done without one(he's being nice about it).
I doubt that would pass at any track these days. Cotton made me a "removable" side bar, but it bolts into place with big azz bolts. Not something that swings out everytime you open the door. Just bolt it in when time to run...takes about 30 seconds to install.
What if you hit a wall going backwards, the spring loaded gizmo would just open right up.
There are pics of mine in the pic and video forum here.
What if you hit a wall going backwards, the spring loaded gizmo would just open right up.
There are pics of mine in the pic and video forum here.
I had a set on my nova the same knurled 360 degree locking type. They are the only one made that areNHRA leagal. But was informed the would rattle like hell so I cut them out and put in a bent bar.
You can bend the door bars as low as you like as long as they are between you shoulder and elbow with your hands on the wheel were they meet the main hoop. I dont have any pics of them they were reallt cool looking but for a street car I would think long and hard about the noise they will make.
You can bend the door bars as low as you like as long as they are between you shoulder and elbow with your hands on the wheel were they meet the main hoop. I dont have any pics of them they were reallt cool looking but for a street car I would think long and hard about the noise they will make.
Here ya go......it's part number 7032, about halfway down the page....https://www.cachassisworks.com/iwwidb.pvx?;multi_item_submit
Link doesn't work......try this....Chris Alston's Chassisworks, Inc.
I was also wrong about the part number, it's 7033.....you have to hit the e-store tab at the top, then the chassiswork tab on the second page, then roll bars and cages, then clevis kits....it's there... I swear :wink:
I was also wrong about the part number, it's 7033.....you have to hit the e-store tab at the top, then the chassiswork tab on the second page, then roll bars and cages, then clevis kits....it's there... I swear :wink:
I think you have to turn the sleeve to get it to pop open. It's not just a simple slide and release. You have to slide AND turn. It looked pretty heavy duty.
Not exacly what I saw, but close.
Evaddave 87gn
Always learning...
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2005
![pics-5[1].jpg](https://turbobuick-data.community.forum/attachments/13/13597-845696c698698e250050df2028f857e8.jpg)
Those are the ones I had and the only one that are legal as they capture the entire tube. The are just a simple pull to release. The thing that I would do for sure is to make a bushing instead of just a drilled hole at the bottom pivot. Like I said there going to make alot of noise.
Are they just a kit that goes with any roll cage such as a Comp. Eng. cage, or is it the whole thing? How many pieces? What will be included? Thanks.
Evaddave 87gn
Always learning...
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2005
Put me in line
Hey put me in line as well. I have been looking for these for awhile. THats why i had the photos.
evaddave
Hey put me in line as well. I have been looking for these for awhile. THats why i had the photos.
evaddave
Another thing to think about is they swing out and there is no stop. You might be able to make one on the lower pivot but I could just see somone with the door half open swing the bar into the inner panel and tear it up. You need to guide them in alittle when shutting them hence putting the bushing in the lower to make it a precision fit. rather than a drilled hole. I did put rubber O rings on the stationary upper portion as the slam shut with the large spring below the colar.
I have seen door bars that swing out but when not at the track, they could be removed. The front lower attachment point was a big solid stub welded to the frame. The door bar was bent and slid over the stub which allowed it to both swing and to be removed. The upper part had a quick release. The bar could be lifted off when not needed and stashed in the trunk. Pretty nice
Not sure It was about 9 years ago. I can tell you this any clevis or pin type, or any other type is junk and not legal to certify. I am really picky about the car I'm engineering so I cut them out after I realized they would probly rattle.
I will know monday if I still have the set. I going to pickup my rotisery and will look for them......
I will know monday if I still have the set. I going to pickup my rotisery and will look for them......
