Thoughts to modifications = cars 1/4m overall time/build

[DenaBoy626]

Since this is the General Turbo tech, I would like your thoughts and opinions/beliefs/insight to these modifications equaling the 1/4 mile time but overall, the build and how fast this car may be. I am new to the GN scene, but from what I have read and seen, GN's run 12s with little modifications

I am at final stage of purchasing 1st GN, going to be purchasing this GN with the following:

Engine: re-build with approx 7k miles.... .030 w/ hyper pistons, mild cam, 3 angle valve job, 50lb injectors, acufab regulator, SMC alky (single injector), 3'' THDP, PT-61 turbo, RJC FMIC, Turbo Lou chip/tuned, F-body radiator with dual fans/ caspers wire harness, RJC Racing boost controller, Flow-master exhaust with cat,ScanMaster 2,

Transmission: Freeman Trans with a 9.5'' 3k stall single disk L/U converter. Transmission has about 3k miles on it.

"It ran a 12.54 @ 114 MPH with a 2.1 60ft, at 23 lbs of boost. Get the 60ft down and the car WILL run a high 11".

If this was a bad pass as the 60ft is high, do you think I should place this in my mindset to thinking that, this car has been overhauled, should this not be capable of doing 11.30-12s?? I feel the mods done to the car are worth it but wondering if there is something wrong here with the overall results. PLEASE give me your thoughts. Maybe i am just being naive.

When I do take this to the track, I dont want to be the fastest but I think I would want to be in the 11s.

 

[Pronto]

2 plugs in the system, cat and Flowmasters. You don't mention what tires you would be running. On paper that looks to be an 11 second combo but many factors are unknown and if you're new to TBs racing them is different that a n/a car too.

 

[berserker6]

with the right tune, the right traction, and the right driver your combo is capable of an 11sec pass. BUT its easier typed than done

 

[DenaBoy626]

Well, since this is a car I am looking at buying and not mine yet, he informed me of this and the more I thought about it, I said this is an 11sec car for sure but wanted to hear thoughts since this seemed odd or perhaps very bad race day.

 

[TurboDave]

Well, since this is a car I am looking at buying and not mine yet, he informed me of this and the more I thought about it, I said this is an 11sec car for sure but wanted to hear thoughts since this seemed odd or perhaps very bad race day.

The mph shows it's an easy 11 second ride. My mph runs were either 114 or 118 depending on whether or not I locked the torque converter during the run, and my ET's were 11.60's.
But that was with moderately good traction off the line. My 60's were in the 1.7's

Traction is where your ET's come from. HP gets you the good mph.

You're there, just need BETTER tires!!!

 

[Amelio]

the car looks to have some good mods and should be much faster, like mentioned before traction is the biggest thing to getting a good E.T Also the tune could possibly be tweaked. It made good mph but the e.t is way slow for 114 it must have spun pretty bad. Also I see it was making 23psi that is a good amount of boost and IMO it should have gone much faster. I have learned over the years that a good combo is nothing without a good tune. You wont really know until you get the car and run it....watching the MV's and how much boost off the line and how fast it is spooling.

the first time out with my new combo I had traction issues 2.0-2.1 60' but the car ran 12.50-12.30 on 15psi. I bumped up the boost to 19-20 psi and it went 12.0@115 then started to pull out some fuel and gave it a few degrees of timing still 19-20 psi and ran a 11.54 @116.

My point being is you have a good combo, it would be helpful to know the cam specs but once you get it, some tuning and practice launching with good tires the car will run where you want it to.

 

[DenaBoy626]

Thanks for all input guys. Now I have another question- I spoke with owner and he last minute told me about the alky kit hes runnin (smc kit). It does not have a free flowing valve so it has to be purged before its ran hard or peddle is stepped on hard (that is correct, right??)

Now I am concerned since I know the car has been tuned at 23lbs of boost and it lacks the 60lb injectors which he never got to changing it but he recommends it(its running 50lbs) and he wants to turn the boost down to 15lbs when he gives it to me which is fine. He wants me to get used to the car which I appreciate and value that concern but when I think about optimization, it only makes sense to have a better alky kit, such as Razors as an example which has a free flowing valve. I would not need to purge that as its automatic, is that correct??? I would not want to waste $$ that was put into a build by blowing motor because I forgot to press a purge button when there are automatic kits.

What do you think??

He told me I can just remove the kit and run higher octane and larger injectors. Wouldnt I need to retune the motor if i were to do that?

If I still go through with the purchase, I dont know whats better-- removing the alky kit which costs $ and just doing higher octane and injectors OR buying an automatic flow valve kit that does not need purging and get larger injectors. PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I am new to all of this.

 

[sullen]

you've got the right idea.

get razors kit! sell the smc kit to offset the cost.
his kit, along with the support and reliability of it is priceless.
razors kit is the first thing i do when i get a car without it.
25psi boost and zero knock ever, coupled with zero dollars spent on race gas.
can't go wrong.

 

[Amelio]

i am not real familiar with the SMC kit, I have a kit from Cooling mist and I do not have a purge kit or anything like that. Basically my tank and pump are one unit that is mounted in the trunk up under the fender is my pressure switch. I can jump my pressure switch and have alky in the system and the pump will hold pressure. Or if the car has sat and I am concerned that it lay have bled off i can just ease into the boost pressure i know it comes on at and the the line is pressurized. honestly it is not that big a deal, with the right tune you should be able to run 20 psi on pump gas much more then yes you need alky or high octane. i am not currently using my alky kit because my car will run 20psi on 93 pump gas and the nitto drag radials won't hold it....plus it went an 11.54 on 20psi so to me there is not much reason to run more boost. If I did run more then alky would be on and i would be getting beat by some cheese ball in a ricer cause I have serious traction issues.

I would suggest to bump the psi down to 15-18 until you do all your home work and learn how to tune these cars. I did not see if it had a scan master? if it does(if not buy one!) run low boost and learn how to read your numbers. As you learn then start turning it up to where you want. (this learning takes longer and is more involved than most people think). Running high boost is not a problem it is the knock that gets ya......keep the knock at zero and you will be ok.

 

[Mr.Spool]

looks like the car has some good parts,61mm and a 9.5 stall fun combo.i don't have alot of experience with the smc kit and i don't want to comment for that fact.50's and alky are more than enough for the track or the street if things are set up correctly.i run nothing but alkycontrol, system just works period.that car should be faster and quicker inmo,i do understand the traction issue but the car should have mph better.with a good 60ft 114 is plenty to go 11's and that build should easily do that dialed in,but that is the real trick to this.lots of info around good luck

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

It sounds like a very nice combo. Should be very streetable. It's an easy 11 second car, waiting to happen. Lots of support for these cars in So Cal. What city do you live in? Tuning is not a problem. I'd take the car to one of the Gurus to check out. If your near Turbo Lou (Lou Czarnota in Lake Forest), he's one of the best. Also, say "Hi" in the So Western section. We have get togethers all the time. Two big ones coming up soon.

Let us know how it goes.

Mike Barnard

 

[DenaBoy626]

It sounds like a very nice combo. Should be very streetable. It's an easy 11 second car, waiting to happen. Lots of support for these cars in So Cal. What city do you live in? Tuning is not a problem. I'd take the car to one of the Gurus to check out. If your near Turbo Lou (Lou Czarnota in Lake Forest), he's one of the best. Also, say "Hi" in the So Western section. We have get togethers all the time. Two big ones coming up soon.

Let us know how it goes.

Mike Barnard

Hey Mike, once I get a GN, I will be at all the events. Yeah, I want to have one by the 18th for the pizza day but will see. The car is built by Lou so I know its good, even spoke to Lou but its the $ factor. I have a set dollar to spend, last minute Im informed about the kit and from what it seems, im chancing it with a manual purge. I can replace it with another but its the money.

Do you know if a lot of people run these manual purges?(smc kits). It does not seem convienent if i want to drive fast on weekends and take it to irwindale on thursday nights. By the way, Im in pasadena.

 

[DenaBoy626]

you've got the right idea.

get razors kit! sell the smc kit to offset the cost.
his kit, along with the support and reliability of it is priceless.
razors kit is the first thing i do when i get a car without it.
25psi boost and zero knock ever, coupled with zero dollars spent on race gas.
can't go wrong.

So, it is best than to just replace the alky kit? Thats where the problem lies, the added cost($650 roughly plus however much it costs to install) plus the injectors (total for both is $1500 more on top of selling price)

Thanks for your input by the way, it helps a lot.

 

[DenaBoy626]

i am not real familiar with the SMC kit, I have a kit from Cooling mist and I do not have a purge kit or anything like that. Basically my tank and pump are one unit that is mounted in the trunk up under the fender is my pressure switch. I can jump my pressure switch and have alky in the system and the pump will hold pressure. Or if the car has sat and I am concerned that it lay have bled off i can just ease into the boost pressure i know it comes on at and the the line is pressurized. honestly it is not that big a deal, with the right tune you should be able to run 20 psi on pump gas much more then yes you need alky or high octane. i am not currently using my alky kit because my car will run 20psi on 93 pump gas and the nitto drag radials won't hold it....plus it went an 11.54 on 20psi so to me there is not much reason to run more boost. If I did run more then alky would be on and i would be getting beat by some cheese ball in a ricer cause I have serious traction issues.

I would suggest to bump the psi down to 15-18 until you do all your home work and learn how to tune these cars. I did not see if it had a scan master? if it does(if not buy one!) run low boost and learn how to read your numbers. As you learn then start turning it up to where you want. (this learning takes longer and is more involved than most people think). Running high boost is not a problem it is the knock that gets ya......keep the knock at zero and you will be ok.

Amelio- thanks for this.

Now, would'nt I have to re-tune the car since its been setup on alky with the build. I was told that its tuned on 23psi so if I do less, wouldnt I have to do that? Plus, luckily for you, you have higher octane there. In Cali, regular pumps are 91. I dont want to run higher octane because I dont want to have to fill up at select places that are out of my way plus it seems that it will be even more costly.

The bad part was I thought I was buying a complete, do nothing,needs nothing car but to me it seems that these minor things are big as it can effect the motor negatively if I do not purge the air. Yes, I agree with you about the learning and getting used to it and making sure there is no knock, thanks for stating that also.

 

[DenaBoy626]

thanks for all input guys. Now i have another question- i spoke with owner and he last minute told me about the alky kit hes runnin (smc kit). It does not have a free flowing valve so it has to be purged before its ran hard or peddle is stepped on hard (that is correct, right??)

now i am concerned since i know the car has been tuned at 23lbs of boost and it lacks the 60lb injectors which he never got to changing it but he recommends it(its running 50lbs) and he wants to turn the boost down to 15lbs when he gives it to me which is fine. He wants me to get used to the car which i appreciate and value that concern but when i think about optimization, it only makes sense to have a better alky kit, such as razors as an example which has a free flowing valve. I would not need to purge that as its automatic, is that correct??? I would not want to waste $$ that was put into a build by blowing motor because i forgot to press a purge button when there are automatic kits.

What do you think??

He told me i can just remove the kit and run higher octane and larger injectors. Wouldnt i need to retune the motor if i were to do that?

If i still go through with the purchase, i dont know whats better-- removing the alky kit which costs $ and just doing higher octane and injectors or buying an automatic flow valve kit that does not need purging and get larger injectors. Please let me know. I am new to all of this.

please answer this purge issue as i want to make sure i am correct in my understanding.

 

[berserker6]

i have an SMC kit and the "purge" youre talking about is a test button which lets you know things are working properly. you push it at idle and when the motor bogs you know you have your alky all the way to the nozzle.

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

i have an SMC kit and the "purge" youre talking about is a test button which lets you know things are working properly. you push it at idle and when the motor bogs you know you have your alky all the way to the nozzle.

Yep.
All the "good" alky kits have this. The alky kit is a great asset to your car. From what I've read about this car, the biggest thing it needs is better tires.

Mike B.

 

[DenaBoy626]

i have an SMC kit and the "purge" youre talking about is a test button which lets you know things are working properly. you push it at idle and when the motor bogs you know you have your alky all the way to the nozzle.

I was told by the owner ( which i recall seeing the unit) that there is a grey button and he told me that this kit is a manual flow valve meaning you have to purge it to release the air out of the lines. He said to actually push it before I do heavy usage of the car. If i press it, it should be fine for normal driving but than after maybe 40 miles or 40 minutes, I should press it again to release any air or else it will damage the motor when I FLOOR it.

 

[berserker6]

youll be in and out of boost so often that you wont need to "purge" the system of air bubbles. or maybe you have a version of the SMC im not familiar with. either way as someone stated earlier your biggest need going by the numbers you put up are traction, traction, traction.

 

[berserker6]

did you buy the car yet???!!!! we're talking about replacing an alky system on a car you havent yet purchased?