The new look for Brutus.......

Yes they are. I looked on the dorman website for the stock s-10 size knurl,underhead, and diameter. Then checked on the arp site and summit to find the correct ones. They fit great in the hub. They are slightly longer to accommodate the rotor and the thick wheel hubs(pad?) most aftermarket wheels have ESP ones that have the clearance for bigger brakes. Joel


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Mike, your car looks awesome and those are some nice upgrades.

But, I believe that you may want to double check your rotors. I think you have the passenger side rotor on the driver side and the driver side rotor on the passenger side. Those slotted rotors are directional and I think they should be installed on the opposite side of where they are from what I saw in your pics in thread #113 on page 6.
 
Mike, your car looks awesome and those are some nice upgrades.

But, I believe that you may want to double check your rotors. I think you have the passenger side rotor on the driver side and the driver side rotor on the passenger side. Those slotted rotors are directional and I think they should be installed on the opposite side of where they are from what I saw in your pics in thread #113 on page 6.
Nope! He's got them on right ;)
 
Ok, I just wanted to make sure. I just installed a set on my GN over the weekend and the slots go in the opposite direction (in the direction that the wheel is spinning). I guess the orientation of the slots varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Ok, false alarm. Thanks..:oops:;)

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Ok, I just wanted to make sure. I just installed a set on my GN over the weekend and the slots go in the opposite direction (in the direction that the wheel is spinning). I guess the orientation of the slots varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Ok, false alarm. Thanks..:oops:;)

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His are Wilwoods and mine are BAER and they are the same, could it be possible yours are wrong?

Here is my Drivers side:
baer 010.jpg
 
No I triple checked mine when I installed them, they are on right, unless they had them labeled wrong. But, I wrote what side they went on with a sharpey on each rotor in case I got accidentally got them confused.

I didn't go with a Baer or wilwood setup rotors. I went some that i ordered from summit racing. So that may be the difference in the orientation of the slots, depends on the design and manufacturer.

One of these days when I have it in the budget. I will be able to upgrade to those nice shiny wilwood or Baer rotors ;-)


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The fronts are 18"x8.5" with 4.4"BS fitted with 245/45/18 Kumo's, and the rears are 18"x9.5" with 4.7" BS fitted with 325/40/18 M&H drag radial.

You're using the above without any modifications to the fenders & inner fenders, 1/4-panels & inner panels, frame, etc. correct?!?! Still running the 8.5" rear diff.??

Thanks,

K.
 
You're using the above without any modifications to the fenders & inner fenders, 1/4-panels & inner panels, frame, etc. correct?!?! Still running the 8.5" rear diff.??

Thanks,

K.

That's correct, minus removing the trim and rolling the inner fender.
 
Figured I would update this thread since I got off of my ass and got started at completing the front end. I had a set of Gbody lower tubular control arms sitting in my basement for a couple years, but never installed them because I didn't have all the hardware for my Acfo DA struts to turn them into a full coilover. Well on Friday my order came in from TRZ Motorsports. Those guys are top shelf material over there and helped me out large. Big thanks to Mike and Todd. I oredred all the hardware to convert my struts into a full coilover. These struts come bare. You have to order your springs and perches for the spring to sit on separate. TRZ had all the stuff I needed and told me to use a QA1 spring for the front. While I was at it, I ordered all the necessary hardware and springs for the rear Afco DA struts to complete the whole car. Rear Afco's come in this week. Here is all of what I got so far minus the rear struts.


So out with the old


And in with the new




In total I saved 6.5lbs per side from the factory springs and lower control arms to the QA1 springs and Gbody tubular lowers. So 13lbs off of the nose of the car. When the rears come in this week, I will install them, then off to the chassis shop it will go to scale and massage what ever is needed to give me the stance I am looking for. I want the car to sit lower all around with the rear tires slightly tucked in the fender.
 
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Man oh man , one of my favorite cars on the board , car looks badass with new rims , the tires made the difference , car looks great man ! I want it ! Lol .
 
Rears finally came in.



Installed them and put the are back on the ground. Dropped the back 2.5". I love the stance now. No more Joe Dirt hot rod stance.






I'm going to roll the lip even more in the rear just for safe keeping, level all four corners, and send it to the chassis shop to reinforce my upper strut perches and scale the car.
 
Looks great! What's your fender well height from the ground through the center of the rim? I've got to do the same thing. Don't like the assignment up so high.
 
Rears finally came in.



Installed them and put the are back on the ground. Dropped the back 2.5". I love the stance now. No more Joe Dirt hot rod stance.






I'm going to roll the lip even more in the rear just for safe keeping, level all four corners, and send it to the chassis shop to reinforce my upper strut perches and scale the car.

Mike,
When you say "roll the lip" how are you able to do it without the paint cracking? The one mistake I made when I had my body work done was I forgot to roll them before it was painted.
 
My lip is already rolled, just going to give it less of a radius then before. If it cracks, I'm going to have to fix it. There is no way around that. Just cross my fingers and hope for the best.
 
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