The love affair, rekindled....

BADDGUY6 said:
Now what's your IAC #s.
Click to expand...

23-26... close to that... ideal was 20-25 correct?

Damn... now I gotta tune it up too? :D

.... and its the damnned alternator.. not the VB that was acting up... gonna put my spare in and see how that works out.... my Autometer gauge needle is bouncing around like crazy between 12V and 16V.... like rapid-fire... making the interior lights flicker...

Oh... Anyone want this turbo-timer?.... :biggrin:
 
Gotta reset the IAC... but this is what I have:

AC on high:

O2 - 700-760
AF - 04-05
L8 - 35
BAT 13.1 (AC and coolant fans on HI)
INT - 128
BL - 150
mph - 0
CLT - 160
ATS - 137
R - 750-800
TPS - .42
IAC - 31
cc - varies continuous
NAL - 44

AC off (coolant fans still on HI):

O2 - 680-720
AF - 04
L8 - 28
BAT 13.6 (AC and coolant fans on HI)
INT - 137
BL - 150
mph - 0
CLT - 156
ATS - 134
R - 750-800
TPS - .42
IAC - 20-21
cc - varies continuous
NAL - 44
 
HI85WH1 said:
Gotta reset the IAC... but this is what I have:

AC on high:

O2 - 700-760
AF - 04-05
L8 - 35
BAT 13.1 (AC and coolant fans on HI)
INT - 128
BL - 150
mph - 0
CLT - 160
ATS - 137
R - 750-800
TPS - .42
IAC - 31
cc - varies continuous
NAL - 44

AC off (coolant fans still on HI):

O2 - 680-720
AF - 04
L8 - 28
BAT 13.6 (AC and coolant fans on HI)
INT - 137
BL - 150
mph - 0
CLT - 156
ATS - 134
R - 750-800
TPS - .42
IAC - 20-21
cc - varies continuous
NAL - 44
Click to expand...

Is the BLMs stuck at 150? It's adding fuel. Find the vac. leak. What Chip are you using? I think the NAL?/MAL 44 is Code 44 . Oxygen Sensor Circuit (Lean Exhaust Indicated)
 
That explains why it smells pig rich...

no vacuum leaks.. could the badly cracked DS exhaust be contributing to the "lean" reading???

Chip is an older ATR pitbull IF what I was told by the previous owner is correct...

I also had a couple more in a bag when I got the car... lemme go looky-look-see...

Got it...

One appears to be a stocker... reads DELOC (cant really make out the last letter) followed by ACXA and lastly 0942

second one is the ATR Pitbull chip (I wonder whats in the car then)

This one reads HP137R-528SDL, PIT BULL tm Copyright 1992

Talk about old school leftovers...
 
Chasing the pegged BLM's

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Where to start.. the preface in laymans terms, is that BLM(long term) fueling adjustment made by the ecm based on integrator(short term) adjustments. To clarify the vehicles O2 sensor reads exhuast gas and tries to maintain an air fuel ratio of 14.7:1 to keep the fueling correct.

To make this easy to understand. See your fuel table is has 255 positions. 128 being the center of the table. If everything were to be perfect, your BLM would be 128 and the INT would bounce between 126-130. Constantly swinging from rich to lean to rich, etc.. keeping the air fuel ratios where they need to be.

Now introduce a vacuum leak, we now have additional air, and the BLM's climb to 150. Why becuase the O2 sensor reads additional air and the ecm compensates by adding fuel to the lean mixture in an attempt to stabilize the air fuel ratio.

So what contributes to a high BLM condition, and what are the fixes.

I will start by saying that 150 on the BLM screams vacuum leak typically. But things like a bad MAF, injector's', O2, ECM, and low fuel pressure can also cuase the condition. Which are not vacuum line related.

Where to start if you suspect a vacuum leak, what I do is I lift the vacuum distribution block and using a small piece of flat non perforated gasket material with a little dressing like vaseline, hylomar, etc.. place it between the the vacuum block and throttle body. I push the screws through the material and seal all the ports. Then I will reset the computer, restart the vehicle, and wait for the ecm to go closed loop and learn the new fueling. typically by doing so you raise fuel pressure, and eliminate all sources of vacuum. your BLM's if they drop from the 150 down to 120 will indicate you have a vacuum hose/line breach. If the BL's stay at 150, then your vacuum hoses are not suspect. At this point part of the engine has been isolated. next up is if the problem still persists, is start listen to the motor and see if hear any hissing coming from the throttle body, plenum, etc.

I have had vehicles to work on missing the throttle body gasket.. the donut shaped one.

Ive seen IAC solenoids loose and/or missing their sealing gaskets.

Also have seen bad plenum gaskets where theyve been drenched in oil and not sealing.

The EGR valve can also cuase a vacuum breach through its pintle. Blocking it off should help troubleshoot this.

Bad throttle body bushings cuasing the air leaks. This is an easy find since opening the blades cuases a whistling sound. And while the car is off, crack the blade open and check for play.

Cracked drivers side header whereas you cant hear the exhaust through the crack. I learned running GM Top engine cleaner through the motor will show all the exhuat leaks since white smoke will bellow out of the cracks/breaches.

Bad injector can cuase the condition. If one or more are not firing correctly, obviously the lean condition will arise.

Bad chip/ecm. It pays to have a spare and other know good chip to swap out.

MAF.. this one is tough unless you have a spare to drop in. The tap test doesnt always work.

O2 sensor.. again a spare AC Delco AFS 20 works wonders.

Injector o-rings.. rare but thought i'd mention. have heard stories of cars running around without the orings on the bottom of the injectors.. added for just in case.

These are the top things I have been able to research and find on the high BLM issue. Also if your running the car with the ecm adding lots of fuel, you will experience cylinder wash down and a diluted engine oil. Actually the oil will smell like gasoline. careful gasoline and oil make a poor lubricant and damge to bearings, pistons, walls, rings, etc. will occur.

On the other range a low BLM condition, the typical cuases are bad MAF sensor, bad injectors, too high a fuel pressure, bad O2 sensor, bad ecm/chip. in that order of probability.

Will add only use AC Delco brand PCV Valves. The PCV is a metered orfice, and the ecm calculates for this controlledvacuum leak in its chip calibrations. The use of other aftermarket PCV's may alter the amount of air, and consequently your BLM numbers. I have had a car go from 146 down to 134 just by replacing the PCV to an AC delco.

The quest for finding the bad vacuum hoses easiest/best tool made is the Mity Vac vacuum pump available at most autoparts stores. It has a guage on top, if the hose being tested is good, the needle will not drop. Chal cannister solenoid will hold vacuum when applied to its nipple. The EGR solenoid is a bit tricky to test, you remove the filter from its rear, plug the hole with your finger, apply vacuum to the port, it should hold. The EGR valve should hold vacuum as well. As does the cruise, AC dust hoses, boost guage, vacuum ball,etc.

If you find either the chal cannister solenoid or EGR solenoid to be defective, the check valve leading to it will be damaged. replace with an original GM which are still available and now heavier duty.

Hope this helps understand whats going on in the motor somewhat in laymans terms.
Click to expand...

With all this said.... I'll start with the known... I looked for vacuum leaks found none...

I'd repair the spare DS header and swap it with this one.

I did note that just above idle the BLM and the INT are close to the 128 ideal. Maybe I'll swap my boost gauge for a vacuum/boost version so I can watch both sides of the equasion.

Keep in mind the O2 is all over the place, but seems to settle at the posted numbers... but swings as low as 120....

More reading:

CODE 44

Trouble Code 44 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently high exhaust oxygen content (lean), despite the efforts of the ECM to increase injector on-time (thus increasing fuel delivered). Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate > 128 by a substantial margin.

The conditions for setting this code are:

no Code 33 or Code 34 (MAF Error) present, and
the O2 sensor voltage remains below 250 mVolts, and
the ECM is in Closed Loop control, and
the above conditions exist for more than 50 seconds.



Typical causes for this code include:

1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted
2) Lean injectors (dirty or blocked) (Possible too... as long as the car sat parked)
3) Water in fuel (Possible.... the tank is almost empty)
4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor
5) Fuel pressure or volume too low (This checked out OK already)
6) MAF sensor reading lower airflow than is actually present (Scanmaster showed OK)
7) Vacuum leaks
8) Incorrect or poorly calibrated PROM ( I can try the PITBULL or the stocker and see)
Click to expand...
 
The stock regulator was a 233 and the one for the TA was 237 if I remember correctly. I had the Trasher, ATR and JC chip but the TT chip made a world of difference for my car!
 
Geoff87 said:
Fix the header first, and start from there... TA performance?.... :eek: :cool:
Click to expand...

did you see the ones sold by buickgn.com?

for now, I have a capable, very talented welder-type friend....

He can fit it... or the spare... either way... the crossover pipe needs to come out to do the starter (at least to get the OE one out)
 
No, but I'll check it out one of these days....

Be sure to bolt the header to a spare head before welding... Ask me how I know...:rolleyes:

I'm positive you have a spare head, but if you need one, let me know.

Might as well swap out the POS factory starter while you're there....
 
Geoff87 said:
No, but I'll check it out one of these days....

Be sure to bolt the header to a spare head before welding... Ask me how I know...:rolleyes:

I'm positive you have a spare head, but if you need one, let me know.

Might as well swap out the POS factory starter while you're there....
Click to expand...

My spare heads are at Chad's shop... gotta pick them up...
 
I'll pick up the aftermarket mini-starter this week... that'll work.

Hopefully get the spare exh header welded and swapped in... then all should be good... (I hope)

According to FedEd tracking... parts are on island now... should be delivered later today.
 
Well.. all my goodies from Gbodyparts.com are here on time as promised....

I spend this afternoon replacing the cracked header and the Starter solenoid and brushes as I was having an intermittent starting problem...

so... with all that fixed... I still have high BLMs and INT... found a light vacuum leak at the MAP sensor... then I noted this strange looking PCV valve...

WTF is this?...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/BadBlackBuick/GN_starter_n_header_rnr_017.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/BadBlackBuick/GN_starter_n_header_rnr_019.jpg

Looks like a threaded nipple into some sort of fitting... any ideas? (Other than it looks like the source of my vacuum leak... )

Tomorrow is another day...
 
HI85WH1 said:
Well.. all my goodies from Gbodyparts.com are here on time as promised....

I spend this afternoon replacing the cracked header and the Starter solenoid and brushes as I was having an intermittent starting problem...

so... with all that fixed... I still have high BLMs and INT... found a light vacuum leak at the MAP sensor... then I noted this strange looking PCV valve...

WTF is this?...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/BadBlackBuick/GN_starter_n_header_rnr_017.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/BadBlackBuick/GN_starter_n_header_rnr_019.jpg

Looks like a threaded nipple into some sort of fitting... any ideas? (Other than it looks like the source of my vacuum leak... )

Tomorrow is another day...
Click to expand...
That's a PCV thing/replacement in the pics. Not good I had one. BLM's would go Up or down? I forget.:confused: When I turn AC on. Get ONLY a ACDelco PCV part# CV893C
 
Have PCV and hose... hopefully will be able to change tonight... got busy yesterday.
 
PCV and hose didnt fix it...

I checked again and really cant find any source of leaks
 
Try to replace ALL the vacuum lines in the car and I mean all by doing this you will eliminate one problem.

And on the fan I rewired the dual fans to get both high and low speeds but I will have to look for the diagram somewhere, I might have posted it in the forums but if not i'll look at my relay
 
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