Tallest tire to fit with a 2" drop

my1stgn

Active Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2005
Currently Im running M/T 10.5x28 slicks and I wanna drop the car 2". What springs will give me this drop and improve handling and will the 28" tall tires still work? Thanks
 
I'm running M/T 275/60's (28" tall) w/ Moog 5413's that have the pigtails plus 1/4 coil removed. I have a 8" wheel w/ 4" backspace. The wheelwell lip has been cut so the sidewall clears with suspension travel. It sit pretty low...

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Its all about backspacing. with 3.5" BS wheels, it will probably Rub. 4" or 4.5" with a small spacer will give your best chance of fitting without rub.
 
Right now the rims I have are 15x10 with a 5.5" backspace and they fit perfect. About 1.5" to the frame and about 2" to the fenders. So given that, how low can I go before the tires rub and/or my 60' starts to suffer? And how much lower did your car get jevans? I kinda want something similar to that stance! Thanks!
 
Right now the rims I have are 15x10 with a 5.5" backspace and they fit perfect. About 1.5" to the frame and about 2" to the fenders. So given that, how low can I go before the tires rub and/or my 60' starts to suffer? And how much lower did your car get jevans? I kinda want something similar to that stance! Thanks!

5.5" of backspace seems to be alot, do you have your frame notched ?

I have a stock width rearend, using a 8" wheel with a 4" b/s and the 275's, I have about a 1/4" of clearance to the framerails. I had to cut the wheelwell lip for the sidewalls to clear also.

It's more about your section width with the tires mounted. Do you have enough clearance from the outer section width of your tires to the wheelwell moldings? There's also a point to where you get the car so low that the upper control arms start to hit the trunk floor with the suspension travel. I'm not for sure about the 60' times with the car down in the weeds on the Gbody cars. Most of the experience is with Fox Body Mustangs, the Mustang's react really well to the car being lowered.

My cars sits at about 26-1/8" at the rear with the current package, it's about 2-1/4" lower from when I purchased it. When I purchased it, it had a ATR Springs, stock wheels w/ M/T 235/60's on it. Here's a few pics with the stock wheels on it at stock ride height...

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Oh I forgot to mention, I have the frame notched and I have the fender lips cut too! So what springs would give you a 2" drop in the front and rear? And any major difference in performance between the Eibach and the Moog springs? thanks
 
Oh I forgot to mention, I have the frame notched and I have the fender lips cut too! So what springs would give you a 2" drop in the front and rear? And any major difference in performance between the Eibach and the Moog springs? thanks

To my knowledge I don't think there's a spring for the Gbody that will achieve 2" drop by itself. I have Belltech 2" Drop Spindles in the front, I cut the Moog's on the rear to get the lower stance. When it comes to a lower stance, probably not much difference between the different brand of springs as far as performance.

Nice that you already have the frame rails notched. A two inch drop on the rear is more than likely going to put the sidewall up inside the wheelwell. As long as you have the clearance, it should work out fine... John
 
To my knowledge I don't think there's a spring for the Gbody that will achieve 2" drop by itself. I have Belltech 2" Drop Spindles in the front, I cut the Moog's on the rear to get the lower stance. When it comes to a lower stance, probably not much difference between the different brand of springs as far as performance.

Nice that you already have the frame rails notched. A two inch drop on the rear is more than likely going to put the sidewall up inside the wheelwell. As long as you have the clearance, it should work out fine... John

What do you know? :tongue::biggrin:

Seriously, John has done his homework on this subject and was a tremendous help with my suspension project. We both run very similar setups with 275/60 drag radials inside stock wheel tubs without frame notches - the notch will only make it easier for you. On my car, a 3rd gen F-body lowering spring did the trick without any cutting. I'm not quite as low as John but as he mentioned earlier, there is a limit to the amount you can lower the rear of a g-body before the UCA ears on the rear end will hit the trunk floor and you will run out of shock travel.
 
Coo, good info. So whats the springs that will give me the biggest drop both front and rear? I see there are tons of Moog p/n's but should I just play it safe and get the Eibachs? And if you cut the coil (ie half a coil or one full coil) doesnt the end of the spring like pig tail in? If so how do you cut the spring then do the pig tail curl at the end to make it back to how it was designed?
 
Here's a couple of links you can check out. I like to think between John and myself that we've covered all the bases for lowering a g-body - we just went about it a little differently in the front.

John's build using MOOGs cut down along with dropped spindles: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...pension-upgrade-project.html?highlight=jevans

My build using Eibachs UNCUT in the front along with new front control arms and F-body springs UNCUT in the back: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-suspensions-tires-wheels/289865-total-suspension-build.html

Here's a pic of my car with only the Eibach springs. In all reality, they only drop the car about 3/4" up front and maybe 1/2" in the back. Actually, after they settled in, the rear ended up lower than the front. You don't want to cut a progressive spring like an Eibach. There's TONS of info on the MOOGs with varying results if you do a search. Either way, they both get the job done.

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Here's a current pic of my car with Eibachs and all the other stuff from the build

With street wheels

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With race wheels

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Here's a couple of links you can check out. I like to think between John and myself that we've covered all the bases for lowering a g-body - we just went about it a little differently in the front.

John's build using MOOGs cut down along with dropped spindles: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...pension-upgrade-project.html?highlight=jevans

My build using Eibachs UNCUT in the front along with new front control arms and F-body springs UNCUT in the back: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-suspensions-tires-wheels/289865-total-suspension-build.html

Here's a pic of my car with only the Eibach springs. In all reality, they only drop the car about 3/4" up front and maybe 1/2" in the back. Actually, after they settled in, the rear ended up lower than the front. You don't want to cut a progressive spring like an Eibach. There's TONS of info on the MOOGs with varying results if you do a search. Either way, they both get the job done.

DSC01147.jpg


Here's a current pic of my car with Eibachs and all the other stuff from the build

With street wheels

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With race wheels

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She turned out PURDY!!!!!!!!!!!!

Always gotta love Jevans car too!

Congrats on beautiful cars guys!
 
Too cool boys! ....That is the look! :cool:
 

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Coo, good info. So whats the springs that will give me the biggest drop both front and rear? I see there are tons of Moog p/n's but should I just play it safe and get the Eibachs? And if you cut the coil (ie half a coil or one full coil) doesnt the end of the spring like pig tail in? If so how do you cut the spring then do the pig tail curl at the end to make it back to how it was designed?

I think your best route to take would be to do the Fbody springs on the rear like Will did, no cutting or guess work. His ride height is very close to mine, seems to be the best spring only option. Another option would be to cut the springs you have to get the height your looking for. I would trim a 1/4 coil at a time until you get the it where you like it. This is what I did with the Moog 5314's. I fabricated a round tube to use as a locater to keep the spring centered and from falling out when I jack the car up...

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As far as the front, I don't think there's a spring that you can just bolt on and get the look your going for. If cost is not a issue, I would defintely go with the set-up Will installed. You'll have the adjustability with shims instead of cutting or changing springs. Drop Spindles would be my next chioce, you should be able to lower the front by 2" with the springs you already have. Last would be to cut the spring to get your desired height. This is a little work, trim a little at a time. Definitely a PITA to reinstall the spring each time you trim it...
 
You could also buy the coil overs for the front and adjust the car as low as you would like. Trz makes a direct bolt in that replaces your shocks and springs with the coil over. About 475 a pair though.

Same for the rear.
 
I think your best route to take would be to do the Fbody springs on the rear like Will did, no cutting or guess work. His ride height is very close to mine, seems to be the best spring only option. Another option would be to cut the springs you have to get the height your looking for. I would trim a 1/4 coil at a time until you get the it where you like it. This is what I did with the Moog 5314's. I fabricated a round tube to use as a locater to keep the spring centered and from falling out when I jack the car up...

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I gotta make that locator, I had that idea in my head because I have the same issue...5413 minus a full coil , and they will unseat pulling out of my driveway at an angle.
 
Just got the springs from Jegs that Will recommended. Will be installing them this weekend and see if it drops me down to where I want at the rear. Right now I am at 27" from ground to the wheelwell trim. Want to get down to around 26". Have been using cut springs in the rear for years now but don't like the fact that they can become unseated. Will post pics when I finish. Running some thick insolators at the top of the springs now and suppose some work can be done with those if these springs don't lower it enough.
 
Just got the springs from Jegs that Will recommended. Will be installing them this weekend and see if it drops me down to where I want at the rear. Right now I am at 27" from ground to the wheelwell trim. Want to get down to around 26". Have been using cut springs in the rear for years now but don't like the fact that they can become unseated. Will post pics when I finish. Running some thick insolators at the top of the springs now and suppose some work can be done with those if these springs don't lower it enough.

Hope those work out for you Mark. Another side benefit of the F-body springs is their smaller diameter which gives you a little more clearance with the exhaust going over the axle.

Also found this searching around, not sure if it is all the gospel truth or not.

The Monte Carlo Mailing List: Tech Articles


I've seen that before. All I can say is that there are a lot of variables when it comes to different springs on different cars and from what I've heard the Moogs can be somewhat inconsistent since they moved production overseas.
 
OK, installed the Hotchis rear springs using the isolators I had and SAME ride height, 27". Took em back out and did the ol make your own isolator deal. Slipped some extra good grade push loc hose around the first coil and now have about 26 5/8". I assume the springs will sag a bit eventually to get down to the height I want which would be around 26" or so. If we get a decent day around here will put some miles on her to help it along otherwise it has all winter to sit before i think about chopping coils. You guys are running M/T's in the back while I am using BFG's so maybe there is a slight height difference between them?

Now I can Dukes of Hazzards jumps without worrying about the springs falling out.:biggrin::eek:
 
OK, installed the Hotchis rear springs using the isolators I had and SAME ride height, 27". Took em back out and did the ol make your own isolator deal. Slipped some extra good grade push loc hose around the first coil and now have about 26 5/8". I assume the springs will sag a bit eventually to get down to the height I want which would be around 26" or so. If we get a decent day around here will put some miles on her to help it along otherwise it has all winter to sit before i think about chopping coils. You guys are running M/T's in the back while I am using BFG's so maybe there is a slight height difference between them?

Now I can Dukes of Hazzards jumps without worrying about the springs falling out.:biggrin::eek:

That's strange. Just measured mine again and I'm at 26" even in the rear. It is possible that since I'm using a M9 rearend that the spring perches are slightly lower than a stocker. Assuming you are running 275/60s, the BFGs shouldn't matter as they are 28" tall just like the MTs. All I'm using is a thick urethane isolator. Are you sure you got the correct springs? Bounce on the rear bumper several times and see what you get.
 
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