Small Subwoofer Help?

GNBRETT

GNBRETT

Pelennor Fields
Joined
Feb 8, 2004
I am having real reservations about putting a sub/box in my trunk. One, it weights a lot. Two, I just dont like the way it looks.

What options are out there as far as smaller sub/amp combos these days? Can anyone post a pic of theirs? Thanx...
 
free air subs

You could always use "free air" subs. Free air subs are designed to use the trunk as the enclosure thus eliminating the use of a box. The critical thing with using this method is sealing off the trunk from the cabin. There should be absolutely no air leakage from the back of the driver to the front or bass quality and power handling will suffer big time. Depending on where you mount the drivers you would see only the back of the drivers, or you could mount a panel to hide it.

Sorry I don't have any pics. My GN is all stock...and staying that way. Just used to be into this stuff back when Richard Clark's GN was winning every contest it entered.

Hope this helps.
 
What type of sound are are looking to gain? I bought a Infinity Basslink from a member here and it works perfect for my needs. I get the missing bass I was looking for. I added an amp for the rear speakers.

They sell the Basslink II which you can buy an adapter/module to power the front and rear speakers that I want to try so I can eliminate the power amp. I'm not an audiophile guy and being that I race the car I didn't want to add much more wight to the car.

I think you would be pleasantly surprise on the Bass gains with the unit. Doesn't take up much space. I'm still able to load up slicks, gas jug, small jack and air tank into my trunk. :biggrin:

Dannyo
 
This is just my opinion, but I would stay away from Free air subs, and or Bass tubes. With free air, you still have to use some kind of board to separate the front of the cone to the magnet. Im just not a believer in this kind of design. Bass tubes, and or Bass links, are cheap alternatives to "real" subwoofers. Most good speaker manufacturers these days make pretty good "flat" subwoofers. These flat designs are not as good as regular woofers, but they allow you to build a box that is very slim and stealth. IMHO One of the better flat subs out there is the JL Audio 13TW5-3. This sub is real flat at only 2.5" thick. Remember when considering a flat subwoofer, that they still need quite a bit of air space to sound good. Its just that they are flat, so you can build a very slim box, to fit better in certain applications. The JL sub is not cheap at close to $600, but it is one of the better ones out there.
 
I will have to check out that Basslink II. I dont want to build any sorta box back there so that might do the trick. Just looken for decent sound. Dont want all that extra weight from a larger subwoofer, even the flat ones require a box to build.
 
GNBRETT said:
I will have to check out that Basslink II. I dont want to build any sorta box back there so that might do the trick. Just looken for decent sound. Dont want all that extra weight from a larger subwoofer, even the flat ones require a box to build.
Click to expand...
All real subs will require a box. If you are worried about weight go with an entry level subwoofer from a descent manufacturer, and build a fiberglass box. That will give you good sound, and be real light. Or if you just flat out dont care about good sound, go with the Bass link. It all depends on how picky you are with your sound.
 
One's personal preferences aside, a properly executed infinite baffle design (free air) is capable of producing audiophile quality sound.
 
626gn said:
One's personal preferences aside, a properly executed infinite baffle design (free air) is capable of producing audiophile quality sound.
Click to expand...
I agree with you to a point. Infinite baffle design's can sound pretty good. Its just they are very hard to perfect, and are limited on output. If I was going to recommend a box style to someone with limited audio background, It definitely wouldnt be a infinite baffle design.
 
That's the same reason I went with the Basslink. I know compared to a properly built enclosure with Subs it won't be a match but then again I was not trying to match to that quality.

I was only wanting to get some bass in the car and this unit does the trick. I'm very satisfied with it that I'm just thinking of buying the Basslink II and trying it out with the power modules for the speakers as I will probably put it in my other car I'm working on when the time comes. It actually provided more bass then I thought it would.

I would not try to convince you if I didn't like it myself. And I'm hard of hearing to boot! :redface:

Dannyo
 
Brett, I put in some 6x9's with adapters. Nothing special. 2 way Jensen's. I hit them with a pretty big amp. 170 watt per channel rms kenwood. It rocks pretty good. Bass is better than you would expect.
Just like my motor, I could blow the speakers if pushed too hard :eek: but we like to live on the edge. ;)

Another option is to mount Buttkickers under the seats.
 
I kept it simple, a small 8" Panisonic sub with built in 80w amp. I got it off ebay. Then adapters with 6x9's. The 4x10's just do not cut it. Some replacement 3.5" in the front.

I wouldn't win any contests with it, but it sounds good. Not super loud. Light weight and cheap.
 
I was shocked on how well Ricks speakers sounded clear lots of bass and fill and best of all very simple :eek:
 
I would either get a good set of 6x9's powered by an amp or a 8" sub with a small custom enclosure.
 
I was thinking maybe an 8 inch sub if the enclosure wasn't too heavy. Anyone run the 8 in W7? I see the 8in W7 is 14 lbs. How much more would a fiberglass box weight? I realize it will need to be a liitle bigger then usual for the 8in W7 but I was wondering what the total weight would be.
 
just an FYI....you can see on my cardomain page...my 15 and subenclosure weighs a bit less than the spare and jack it took the place of.
 
so...on that note...I think your idea of an 8w7 in the spare well would be way cool. Put some power on that joker and you'll be happy with it.
Our cars with IB subs aren't as easy as you think to truly do it right. Your baffle has to completely isolate the back waves from the front of the driver. That means more than just a board across the back seat. The rear deck has to be sealed up and you have to seal off the area going to the rear sides.
 
I dont think that a 8" sub and enclosure would be that heavy to notice any performance loss, If you put 2 12"s in you will notice it big time but 1 8" should be no problem. For a nominal fee I could glass one for you to fit in your spare tire well ;) :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

H
AC CONDENSATION LEAK
Replies
5
Views
878
Chuck Leeper
Chuck Leeper
SETXTurbo
87 GN Sound System, Speaker Options, Wiring, Electrical Upgrade
Replies
5
Views
1K
CatMan00
C
H
Low Cost Power Antenna Repair
Replies
2
Views
699
Hunter Dog
H
G
100,000 mile engine service - a few questions
Replies
11
Views
848
granitestategn
G
B
New guy, Help me spec my resto build!
2 3
Replies
42
Views
4K
BagliviNY
B
Top