Slooooow times, why?

menace848

Yeah, Im the slow GN, so?
Joined
Jan 15, 2002
Well, Just got back from the track a few hours ago. This is how it went:
Best 1/4 time: 14.033 at 102.7
Best 1/8 time: 9.1 at 81.5
Best 60 ft: 2.489 :cool:
02s between 740-800
A/F around 165

This is after I put in my new TE44 and 009 injectors. My octane had to be the worst ever because I started out with about 1/8 tank of pump gas and added 100 octane up to 1/2 tank. My tires are pretty bad, but I dont think there is ANY way I should be going this SLOW! My fastest run was at 19 PSI, and the knock gradually increases from around 3 to 14 at the end of the run. I only got knock in 3 and 4th gears. Could it be false? should I replace my sensor? I tried running with an idle fuel press line off of 55 PSI and still got the same knock. Is there something I am missing that is making my car THIS SLOW?!?!?
 
Did you get a new chip for your new injectors? How much timing?

Get some good tires, your 60 foot times suck! no offense, my best time on radials was 2.26 :D .

Also, don't shift into 4th, your loosing a couple MPH doing that.

Are you locking the converter?
 
wow ok you got probs. 740 is too lean. no wonder your getting lotsa knock at the top end. when it retards knock its pulling out timing and making the car slow. by A/F do you mean the AF reading on the scanmaster? if so it should peg 255 with a TE44 at 19 psi easily. its saying you dont have as much air going in as you really do so thats prob causing it to go lean. your MPH is OK but could still be better. 009s are known to be rich on the low end and lean on the top end. yes that 60 ft does suck compared to others ive seen. its odd. O2s indicate a overly lean condition but 55 psi FP line off should be crazy rich. i suggest finding somebody with a DS or chip birner or something and having them do you a chip or something to fix that car. with only a TE44 and 009s you coulda prob been in the low 13s, IMO.
 
I almost don't know where to start. 60's are so bad, you can't possibly get a good time with 2.5 60s. You can achieve 2.0s on street tires. In your favor, the track probably had NO prep.

Your chip sucks. Probably causing your knock. I never heard anything good about 009s. With 55#s static fuel pressure, you were probably insanely rich at the bottom with the 009s. They are hard to tune and rich at the bottom. To take advantage of a TE 44 you need to run 24#s of boost. Forget the 100 octane and get ALCHOHOL!

Yes.......lock your TC, don't shift into 4th, and your lucky you didn't blow at least a head gasket with 14* of knock in high gear.
 
Turn the fuel pressure back to the pressure recommended by the chip burner (probably 43-45 psi line off) Never again try to reduce knock by turning up the fuel pressure (at least until you are running 11's). Add octane instead.

If you are running a Cat, remove it and replace it with a test pipe. At the Track, buy a few gallons of leaded race gas (116 or so) and pour it in to what you have now.

If you have a right side airbag, put 20 psi in it. If you don't, get one. If the car isn't spinning, but bogging to a 2.5 60 ft, look for an exhaust leak and lower the fuel pressure.

Never run the 1/4 mile in Overdrive, It will cause lots of knock on the shift and drop the car out of its powerband.

At 19 psi the TE44 is only going to be slightly faster than the stock
Turbo. When you get the knock gone, you can turn up the boost gradually to 22 - 24 psi.

I'm not big on O2 readings for mild combos. Yours seem to be fine or within the sensors margin of error. If everything is in good working order, knock is a more accurate gage of tune than O2's. Tune for the absolute least amount of knock you can achieve. Once false knocks are isolated and eliminated, adding octane works much better than adding fuel pressure.
 
your ET is slow because you are getting crap sixty foots.
remember traction is ET and horsepower is MPH.

Drop the sixty ' and the ET goes down.

So 102 mph is great for a basic build even if you are not getting good traction and you keep tuning and the MPH is climbing you are putting out more horses.

I always write down on the back of the time slips ambient temp, fuel psi, boost, O2 counts. and you can see were you are or were.

You get traction and you have a low 13 sec car all day no problem. or quicker
It is just your traction and that is it. The 102.7 mph is good horsepower.
Do not use overdrive, the 3.42 gears are good for third through the traps.
Good luck
 
Ok, I WAS running in OD every run I made, so that is a problem. I had knock with my stock turbo as well, and I thought that it must have been my injectors because they were stock after 140K miles on the car! Well I guess it wasn't those injectors, and I don't really know what kinda chip I have in there right now, picked it up from SE turbo after I was kinda desperate to get one. I plan on picking up a better chip soon, and maybe getting Alky inj. Also, there is plenty of power throughout the 60ft and that is my problem, my tires simply spin all day and I cannot build ANY boost at the line. Next time I will give it a try in drive and see what that does, and my FP was around 42-45 during my runs except for one.
 
also, I always thought that running 116 octane on the same O2 sensor would really mess it up, and that I needed to get another one for the track if I did that.
 
IMO if you are racing for times at the track you should never use regular radial tires to acheive your goals...you better have AT LEAST drag radials on...or personally I would get a set of sticky slicks...like previously mentioned it's all in the traction from the start...

with slicks you can hold as much as 15 psi at the line given the right conditions...do you realize how much of a time drop you could have if you launched with that kind of boost? it's like being shot out of a cannon...when i had the stock turbo and injectors i ran slicks and launched with 10 psi...on my way to a 12.2 @ 112 mph timeslip with 100% 110 octane leaded race gas and high boost at 23 psi...

basically i believe in going all out at the track...i mean that's what your there for anyways isn't it?
 
Originally posted by menace848
also, I always thought that running 116 octane on the same O2 sensor would really mess it up, and that I needed to get another one for the track if I did that.

yes leaded race gas will kill an o2 sensor...that's why we buy them in bulk:D :cool:

or if you get an alcohol kit...you don't have to worry about fouling out your o2sensor...alky is good...you can run drag mode on the street...it gives you more octane which gives you more boost which gives you more horsepower
 
42.5 injecs and 50' seem to be the most popular injecs.

Stick with the highly popular vendors for chip programs.

See Odrive is less than 1 - 1 ratio and the negative gear puts a greater load on the motor.
That is why u tune your o2volts/fuel PSI at WOT in DRIVE. very important !!!!
Maybe try out the leadproof O2 from Nippondenso, not hearing any bad feedback yet.
265/ 50 ' fit on the stock 7" rims and work well just need to run lower air PSI. 8 " rims are the best and then slap on 275/ 50's and roll no problem...many choices
I see that u are considering the ALKY route make sure you get a chip with the correct timing table for the alky.

My buck and a Quota
 
Originally posted by menace848
Well, Just got back from the track a few hours ago. This is how it went:
Best 1/4 time: 14.033 at 102.7
Best 1/8 time: 9.1 at 81.5
Best 60 ft: 2.489 :cool:
02s between 740-800
A/F around 165

This is after I put in my new TE44 and 009 injectors. My octane had to be the worst ever because I started out with about 1/8 tank of pump gas and added 100 octane up to 1/2 tank. My tires are pretty bad, but I dont think there is ANY way I should be going this SLOW! My fastest run was at 19 PSI, and the knock gradually increases from around 3 to 14 at the end of the run. I only got knock in 3 and 4th gears. Could it be false? should I replace my sensor? I tried running with an idle fuel press line off of 55 PSI and still got the same knock. Is there something I am missing that is making my car THIS SLOW?!?!?



Just to add: Don't be too discouraged. With 2.48 60' times you'r lucky you even ran as good as you did!!! If you're looking for ET, street tires are NOT the way to do it.
Get that knock under control before trying any more runs!!!!!!
 
Originally posted by menace848
Also, there is plenty of power throughout the 60ft and that is my problem, my tires simply spin all day and I cannot build ANY boost at the line. Next time I will give it a try in drive and see what that does, and my FP was around 42-45 during my runs except for one.

You can't come out under boost with street tires. That's a good reason why your 60s were so bad. You were blowing your tires away by coming out out too high an RPM. With street tires you can maybe hold the line at 1500 rpm which probably isn't even 0 vacuum. You could easily knock .3 off your 60 by launching as described.
 
I would have to 2nd what UNGN said. Need more octane and boost and MUCH more traction. I too feel you were lucky to run as well as you did.
 
I'd start with a good chip for the car and tune it for the street first.

You really need to know what's in your chips as far as timing and all to tune the car.
 
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