Should I run synthetic or just plain old dinosaur oil?

[BlackBandit]

To add on to what I've already said about the 5w-? vs 10w-? ect. The first number is the base oil used to formulate the mixture. All motor oils are too thick to work properly when cold. A 0w-30 will provide the same warm protection as a 10w-30 when warm but is still too thick to work properly when cold!

 

[Boost231]

i run valvoline 20-50 with a bottle of EOS.

 

[86 TR]

Mobil 1 10w-30 here. I always changed oil at 2,000 miles and threw in a bottle of EOS at every change. But blew 2 headgaskets this summer and now am building a new motor. Going roller cam so I shouldn't need the additives anymore that flat tappet cams require.

 

[Boost231]

Mobil 1 10w-30 here. I always changed oil at 2,000 miles and threw in a bottle of EOS at every change. But blew 2 headgaskets this summer and now am building a new motor. Going roller cam so I shouldn't need the additives anymore that flat tappet cams require.

shouldnt but they way oil is now a days i would still run something just for the added insurance.

 

[BlackMetal]

A 0w-30 will provide the same warm protection as a 10w-30 when warm but is still too thick to work properly when cold!

0W-30 doesn't work when cold?

 

[V6UnderPressure]

0W-30 doesn't work when cold?

Ditto, 0w-30 is thinner in the cold then 10w-30.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Ditto, 0w-30 is thinner in the cold then 10w-30.

What?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Yea....at zero degrees. Noone here (well i hope so anyways) is starting their TR's up when its zero degrees outside.

I was always under the assumption, (I used to manage an oil change, and preventative maintenance facilty here) that all the galleys and oil passages were of a specific diameter, to coincide with 10w30 oil. I may be totally off, but I understood it as having the same theory as our headers in our car. The little "tube diameter vs. flow" deal. Too big a header slows down air velocity, thus destroying your spool up. If you use too thick or too thin of an oil, doesnt it screw with how fast the oil moves thru the passages now? Slightly modifying the oil pressure? Or does this theory not hold any oil.

 

[BlackBandit]

Scott4DMny. You heard me correctly. 0w30 doesn't function properly when cold.

Yea....at zero degrees.

Turbo6Smackdown, you couldn't be further from the truth.

I'm going to explain this as best I can in a brief paragraph. Just to be clear NO ENGINE OIL GIVE YOU PROPER PROTECTION WHEN COLD!!!!

To start you should know the industry standard for checking the viscosity of oil is 40c and 100c respectively.

Take for instance if you run redline 10w-30. It has a cs (viscosity) rating of 10.7 at 100C. Now look at Amsoil 0w-30. It has a cs rating of 10.44 at 100C. So what's the difference? This difference is the base oil used to make them. The redline starts with a 10 weight oil and ads viscosity index modifiers and the Amsoil starts with a 0 weight oil and does the same. What this means is that in the case of the 10w-30 the oil when cold gets as thick as a 10 weight oil but as it warms up to operating temperature it only gets as thin as a 30w oil. The same is true of the Amsoil but with 0w oil.

See, if you start at 40c with a 30W oil you'll have an approximate cs of 100, or ten times the desired viscosity and at 100c you'll have a cs of 10. That's why they start with a lighter oil and modify it so it doesn't get as thin. That way they get better flow when cold (although still not good enough) and they still get the desired flow at operating temps.

Now lets take a look at the two oils mentioned above.

The Amsoil at 40c (104f) has a cs rating of 56.39, or about 6 times thicker than desired but a cs of 10.44 once warmed to 100c.

The redline at 40c has a cs of 70, or about 7 times thicker than desired but a cs of 10.7 once warmed up.

Both provide inadequate protection during startup at 104 degrees fahrenheit and desired protection at operating temperature. The only difference is one provides better protection at startup.

FWIW, one main reason for changing your oil is that the viscosity modifiers break down with time and use and the oil reverts to it's base state. HTH. james

 

[bobc455]

Disclaimer: I don't own a turbo car and never have.

Having said that, I want to pass along the "rules of thumb" that I have picked up over the years on Synthetic oil.

The greatest advantage of a Synthetic oil is that it is more stable under severe heat. For most cars this doesn't matter as long as you change your oil frequently enough, but on a turbo car the turbo can get very hot and a synthetic will last better.

Synthetic oil still gets dirty, however, therefore your oil change interval will be the same as conventional motor oils.

Also on a turbo motor it is smart to idle the motor before you shut it down so oil flows over the turbo bearings and cools them down.

I've put my flame suit on, so please correct any mis-information here!

I'm still searching for a solution for the no-ZDDP thing. I've heard a rumor about a forthcoming additive, but I have not seen it materialize yet.

-Bob C.

 

[2QUIK6]

I'm still searching for a solution for the no-ZDDP thing. I've heard a rumor about a forthcoming additive, but I have not seen it materialize yet.

Search no more, its here, ZDDPlus, there's a very long thread about it in this forum. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/engine-tech/230483-zddp-question.html

 

[NJ Torque]

Shell Rotella-T 15W-40 all the way.... oil change every 1500miles!

Their zinc content has been reduced.... Delo or Delvac is the only way to go anymore....

 

[V6UnderPressure]

What?

0w-30 is thinner in cold temperatures than 10w-30. Confused? Please don't tell me some of you guys didn't know the W standed for winter.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Yea....at zero degrees. Noone here (well i hope so anyways) is starting their TR's up when its zero degrees outside.

Very good point. Me either, but people still need the correct info.

 

[BlackBandit]

Please don't tell me some of you guys didn't know the W standed for winter.

You're kidding right?

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Scott4DMny. You heard me correctly. 0w30 doesn't function properly when cold.



Turbo6Smackdown, you couldn't be further from the truth.

I'm going to explain this as best I can in a brief paragraph. Just to be clear NO ENGINE OIL GIVE YOU PROPER PROTECTION WHEN COLD!!!!

To start you should know the industry standard for checking the viscosity of oil is 40c and 100c respectively.

Take for instance if you run redline 10w-30. It has a cs (viscosity) rating of 10.7 at 100C. Now look at Amsoil 0w-30. It has a cs rating of 10.44 at 100C. So what's the difference? This difference is the base oil used to make them. The redline starts with a 10 weight oil and ads viscosity index modifiers and the Amsoil starts with a 0 weight oil and does the same. What this means is that in the case of the 10w-30 the oil when cold gets as thick as a 10 weight oil but as it warms up to operating temperature it only gets as thin as a 30w oil. The same is true of the Amsoil but with 0w oil.

See, if you start at 40c with a 30W oil you'll have an approximate cs of 100, or ten times the desired viscosity and at 100c you'll have a cs of 10. That's why they start with a lighter oil and modify it so it doesn't get as thin. That way they get better flow when cold (although still not good enough) and they still get the desired flow at operating temps.

Now lets take a look at the two oils mentioned above.

The Amsoil at 40c (104f) has a cs rating of 56.39, or about 6 times thicker than desired but a cs of 10.44 once warmed to 100c.

The redline at 40c has a cs of 70, or about 7 times thicker than desired but a cs of 10.7 once warmed up.

Both provide inadequate protection during startup at 104 degrees fahrenheit and desired protection at operating temperature. The only difference is one provides better protection at startup.

FWIW, one main reason for changing your oil is that the viscosity modifiers break down with time and use and the oil reverts to it's base state. HTH. james

This is very understood, however, to simplify things, in the colder climates (I am not sure what temperature they use as winter and I do not have time to do countless searches on stats) they recommend 5w-30 and in warmer climates 10w-30. Now, before I get flamed, I am just using this as an example. 0w-30 will flow like 0w in the winter, 5w-30 will flow like 5w in the winter, and 10w-30 will flow like 10w in the winter. However at operating temps they will all flow like 30. Its that simple, but when you get into talking about "function" of an oil, I will avoid that as this is all the simple information I have to give. I like the K.I.S.S. method.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

You're kidding right?

Depends, if you want to flame me then yes. If not then no.

 

[BlackBandit]

Deleted this post because Scott4DMny is indeed correct about the "W" standing for winter. I'm the idiot with a crappy tasting foot in my mouth!

 

[V6UnderPressure]

I definitely don't want to "flame" you! We've had enough of those out here. The "W" in any of the oils (0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 20w-50 ect) stands for weight. The first number is the weight of the base oil used to make that particular oil. In a 5w-30 they start with a basic 5 weight oil and add viscosity modifiers until it only thins out the the same viscosity as a 30 weight oil at 100 Celsius. Re-read my post that you quoted. If it's confusing I'll try and clarify. Sometimes my thoughts jump around.

Edit: Are you still selling that roller?

Bite your tongue. I worked as a lubrication technician for 4 years with factory manufacturing equipment. You are WRONG. The W in 10W-30 stands for winter in which it is the viscosity of the oil in winter cold.

Yes the roller is still for sale.

 

[DR BOOST]

W stands for winter