my car seems to be running really rich at idle and breaking up when the turbo starts to create boost . i've changed the programs and it really doesn't change the situation . I tried to lean it out in the fuel map to a value of 10 and it's still really rich o2 sensor is reading in the low 800's . i replaced the map senor and changed the o2 . i'm just a little lost....new to this dfi stuff .. combo is : john craig te45a , 55 lbs siemens , precision 218 cam , power plate , dfi , 3200 stall , ported stock heads and intake , duel delta gates , jimmies trans , fr. mount , billet mains & girdle , other odds and ends
running rich really rich
- Thread starter zombie2
- Start date
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
FAT??
What kind of dfi is it? FAST, ACCEL, etc??
Need more info to get some ideas as to the problem. Have any data logs?
What kind of dfi is it? FAST, ACCEL, etc??
Need more info to get some ideas as to the problem. Have any data logs?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
When you say its breaking up what is it doing?
If it is running rich at idle you can see which cells it is operating in and change it.
If it is running rich at idle you can see which cells it is operating in and change it.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
That is too low.
What is the fuel pressure set at?
Is the regulator working? It would make some sense if the regulator was just letting the fuel run right through it. That might explain a thing or two.
There is now way the motor should run at all with a value in that map of 10 anywhere.
Let us know
What is the fuel pressure set at?
Is the regulator working? It would make some sense if the regulator was just letting the fuel run right through it. That might explain a thing or two.
There is now way the motor should run at all with a value in that map of 10 anywhere.
Let us know
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
I may have a program that would work pretty well for that injector and turbo.
Let me know if you want it. Might be something to contrast and compare off of.
Let me know if you want it. Might be something to contrast and compare off of.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
I cant get you the program until tomorrow afternoon. Sorry.
I have to go to Dads house and get it out of his laptop.
Maybe someone else on here can shoot you one quicker than that.
I have to go to Dads house and get it out of his laptop.
Maybe someone else on here can shoot you one quicker than that.
the program i have in it is a joe lubrant program i think the program is good . i worked on the car last night . I lowered my fuel presure it was 58lbs (no vacum) so I set it to 43lbs it's alot better at idle . Here is what it is doing know the car idles and runs fine but when the car tries to make any boost it hesitates and pops and won't let it make any boost at all . I believe it's backfiring through the turbo?(if that is even possible) . The reason I think that is the air filter keeps getting knocked off the turbo . The timing is at 11 deg. with a timing light. How should it be "set" with the dfi ?Could my timing be that far off or mywaste gates be hooked wrong?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
It sounds like you now have timing issues.
If Joe Lubrant set up the timing table it should be good to go. He know more than enough about these cars for it not to be a problem.
You may want to check the cam sensor and more importantly the crank sensor too.
If you can e mail me the file I can look at it.
Hope this helps
If Joe Lubrant set up the timing table it should be good to go. He know more than enough about these cars for it not to be a problem.
You may want to check the cam sensor and more importantly the crank sensor too.
If you can e mail me the file I can look at it.
Hope this helps
THANKS REGGIE , THE CAM SENSOR SHOULD BE O.K. WHEN I ASSEBLED THE MOTOR I BOUGHT THE CAM SENSOR TOOL AND I BELIEVE THE SENSOR WAS WORKING CORRECTLY . WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR WITH THE CRANK SENSOR OR SHOULD I JUST REPLACE IT ? ONCE AGAIN I APPRECIATE THE HELP
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Make sure wheel is not cracked or just spinning along on the crank snout. Check to see if the sensor is lined up right and that there is the correct clearance between the sensor and the wheel.
You can put a timing light on the motor and see where the timing is on the car.
Whatever you have in the map is what should be on the crank. For instance 24 degrees in the map at the given cell should give you 24 degrees on the crank. There may be a margin of error to be had with a batch fire DFI. They are not completely accurate.
You can figure about 6 degrees worth of error. As long as it is close you should be OK. If it is you can eliminate the cranks sensor as the problem.
You can put a timing light on the motor and see where the timing is on the car.
Whatever you have in the map is what should be on the crank. For instance 24 degrees in the map at the given cell should give you 24 degrees on the crank. There may be a margin of error to be had with a batch fire DFI. They are not completely accurate.
You can figure about 6 degrees worth of error. As long as it is close you should be OK. If it is you can eliminate the cranks sensor as the problem.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Email me the program you have and I can look at it for you.
See if anything jumps out at me.
See if anything jumps out at me.
Joe Lubrant
" The Right Stuff "
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Reggie,
I sent him my old set up from 1996, engine was 274 with 55's
10.30 @131 with PT 70 3700#...used every drop of those 55's.
In my system timing error was 6 degrees.
Hope you can help him, I barely remember the GEN 6 stuff now.
Joe
PS
I'll send you a copy of program....let me shake the cob webs off that file
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
OK I have spent about 4 hours trying to get a 20+ year old laptop to work and it wont type the letters a,e,d and s.
So that takes care of the left side of the keyboard.
The good news is that I can run Calmap on this XP desktop I am typing on.
Send me that file and I can massage it a bit for ya. Send it as an attachment please.
From the looks of it I would say that it is rich and it is rough. You have a much smaller motor and turbo than Joe did. What I mean by rough is that these aftermarket ECMs do not like big transitions between cells. It needs to be smoothed out and that will make the motor smoother as well.
So that takes care of the left side of the keyboard.
The good news is that I can run Calmap on this XP desktop I am typing on.
Send me that file and I can massage it a bit for ya. Send it as an attachment please.
From the looks of it I would say that it is rich and it is rough. You have a much smaller motor and turbo than Joe did. What I mean by rough is that these aftermarket ECMs do not like big transitions between cells. It needs to be smoothed out and that will make the motor smoother as well.
