Adam Connell
Monster Truckin since 87'
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2006
Well, Im in the process of a mini overhaul for the GN. Im in the process of installing everything that I've either bought and not installed, or fixing what "should have" been fixed a long time ago. Well here's my story of getting sidetracked! haha!
Im in the process of cleaning up the rear of the car. My original intent was just to fix the rear fillers and call it a day... well after I got the tail lights out I decided they needed some work. Talk about night and day!! I wished I had taken a before and after picture, but trust me it's a big deal and EASY! This takes and hour max and here's what I did:
-Remove tail lights(4 "thumbscrews" in trunk)
-remove trim (maybe a total a 10-12 easy phillips head screws)
-remove light bulbs
The tail light housings should be out at this point, be careful removing the trim. It may need some light encouragement, but make sure to be gentle. It feels like it would be easy to crack if you got a little rough, but it is pretty flexible.
Next: Wipe down the trim with a wax remover or surface prep. Any of the "surface prep" stuff is actually just mineral spirits... DO NOT "scuff" the trim. It will ruin the factory appearance.
Now you're ready to paint and this will work for ALL of your Buick's trim:
I used duplicolor's "trim paint". I could not be any happier with it. I own a small paint restoration shop(long word for an exterior only detail shop lol), and I do a little touch up here and here. This trim paint is the EASIEST to spray paint I have ever used... It lays down nice and even, and even if you think you screw up spraying, let it dry, it is VERY forgiving.
Basically just put on two or three LIGHT coats. You dont want much paint here because it will fill in the factory texture. You want the first coat to fully cover, but just enough to cover. Wait roughly 1 minute between coats, the trick here is laying the next coat on while the previous coat is still tacky. If you want an idea of how long I wait between coats here's what I do: when you're done with the previous coat immediately flip the spray can upside down and clear the nozzle by spraying it, the spray will turn clear. Then shake the can until your arm starts to get a bit tired... take a quick breath or two and start painting again! For the second and third coat I suggest holding the can roughly 12in away. You're not trying to "spray" the piece, you want the paint to almost fall onto the piece if you catch my drift. The word dry coat comes to mind.
The paint will self level if you do it this way and dry to a move even finish. LESS IS MORE here! If the paint doesnt look even after the 3rd coat, then let it dry, trust me it will look a hell of a lot better dry.
Wait 10-15min and then pick up the part and go put it in the sun and see what you think. If the result isnt quite good enough, then try it again! The second round of spraying will be much more forgiving, and remember less is more. I would just do one light-medium coat with the focus being on even coverage, I actually hold the can farther away(12-16in) and use what I call a "dusting" method for a touch up coat.
Remember this is MUCH easier than I am making it sound, so many people are scared of painting, but it really isnt hard to get professional results if you take your time and dont get in a rush!
Back to the tail lights:
I wiped mine down with the same surface prep stuff and got all of the dirt/wax/crud off. Make sure the solvent you use does not hurt the plastic... test it in a small spot first.
Next just get some Mcguires plastic polish or something similar and go to town. Nothing special here, if your lights are badly oxidized you can wet sand with 1500, then 2000, then machine polish. Try just polishing by hand first and keep in mind what is covered by trim, you dont have to go nuts here.
Now reinstall and there you go!
The paint process will work on ANY of your trim, I am actually doing my headlight bezels today along with my door trim. You can do the door strips on the car, but mine needed some attention so I removed them. MAKE SURE you mask well if you do them on the car...
Good luck!
Im in the process of cleaning up the rear of the car. My original intent was just to fix the rear fillers and call it a day... well after I got the tail lights out I decided they needed some work. Talk about night and day!! I wished I had taken a before and after picture, but trust me it's a big deal and EASY! This takes and hour max and here's what I did:
-Remove tail lights(4 "thumbscrews" in trunk)
-remove trim (maybe a total a 10-12 easy phillips head screws)
-remove light bulbs
The tail light housings should be out at this point, be careful removing the trim. It may need some light encouragement, but make sure to be gentle. It feels like it would be easy to crack if you got a little rough, but it is pretty flexible.
Next: Wipe down the trim with a wax remover or surface prep. Any of the "surface prep" stuff is actually just mineral spirits... DO NOT "scuff" the trim. It will ruin the factory appearance.
Now you're ready to paint and this will work for ALL of your Buick's trim:
I used duplicolor's "trim paint". I could not be any happier with it. I own a small paint restoration shop(long word for an exterior only detail shop lol), and I do a little touch up here and here. This trim paint is the EASIEST to spray paint I have ever used... It lays down nice and even, and even if you think you screw up spraying, let it dry, it is VERY forgiving.
Basically just put on two or three LIGHT coats. You dont want much paint here because it will fill in the factory texture. You want the first coat to fully cover, but just enough to cover. Wait roughly 1 minute between coats, the trick here is laying the next coat on while the previous coat is still tacky. If you want an idea of how long I wait between coats here's what I do: when you're done with the previous coat immediately flip the spray can upside down and clear the nozzle by spraying it, the spray will turn clear. Then shake the can until your arm starts to get a bit tired... take a quick breath or two and start painting again! For the second and third coat I suggest holding the can roughly 12in away. You're not trying to "spray" the piece, you want the paint to almost fall onto the piece if you catch my drift. The word dry coat comes to mind.
The paint will self level if you do it this way and dry to a move even finish. LESS IS MORE here! If the paint doesnt look even after the 3rd coat, then let it dry, trust me it will look a hell of a lot better dry.
Wait 10-15min and then pick up the part and go put it in the sun and see what you think. If the result isnt quite good enough, then try it again! The second round of spraying will be much more forgiving, and remember less is more. I would just do one light-medium coat with the focus being on even coverage, I actually hold the can farther away(12-16in) and use what I call a "dusting" method for a touch up coat.
Remember this is MUCH easier than I am making it sound, so many people are scared of painting, but it really isnt hard to get professional results if you take your time and dont get in a rush!
Back to the tail lights:
I wiped mine down with the same surface prep stuff and got all of the dirt/wax/crud off. Make sure the solvent you use does not hurt the plastic... test it in a small spot first.
Next just get some Mcguires plastic polish or something similar and go to town. Nothing special here, if your lights are badly oxidized you can wet sand with 1500, then 2000, then machine polish. Try just polishing by hand first and keep in mind what is covered by trim, you dont have to go nuts here.
Now reinstall and there you go!
The paint process will work on ANY of your trim, I am actually doing my headlight bezels today along with my door trim. You can do the door strips on the car, but mine needed some attention so I removed them. MAKE SURE you mask well if you do them on the car...
Good luck!
