Rear sway bar

[motorhead]

Does anyone know of any other chassis/axle-mounted swaybars than these?

Hellwigg #55809 @ 1” - tubular ~$200
Spohn #919 @ 7/8" - solid chrome-moly ~$400
BMR #XS009 @ 1-3/8" - tubular/solid? ~$400
Detroit Speed #VARIOUS @ 1" or 1-1/8" - tubular ~$325
HR Parts and Stuff @ 1-1/4" - tubular chrome-moly ~$510

I've purposely excluded anything that mounts to the lower control arms.

 

[motorhead]

Does anyone know of any other chassis/axle-mounted swaybars than these?

Hellwigg #55809 @ 1” - tubular ~$200
Spohn #919 @ 7/8" - solid chrome-moly ~$400
BMR #XS009 @ 1-3/8" - tubular/solid? ~$400
Detroit Speed #VARIOUS @ 1" or 1-1/8" - tubular ~$325
HR Parts and Stuff @ 1-1/4" - tubular chrome-moly ~$510

I've purposely excluded anything that mounts to the lower control arms.

 

[charlief1]

I believe theres one from DSE as well and Scott W sells it. Check with GNS performance.

 

[motorhead]

I believe theres one from DSE as well and Scott W sells it. Check with GNS performance.

Already got it... #4 on the list above.

 

[charlief1]

Already got it... #4 on the list above.

Missed that.

One other cheap option is use one off a last gen Blazer. 4 door 2 WD with towing package. You have to drill a couple of holes to mount the end links and weld the mounting pads to the axle but it's cheap and bigger than the stock sway bar. If you want to look at what I'm talking about go to the B4Black section and look up my thread "Finally got some time" and you can see where I've mocked one up on my car. My puter crashed and I lost all the pics of the car but at least I posted the info before it happened.

Look on the first page and see the pic I posted about using the Blazer bar. I forgot I posted it there.

 

[YouLikeThat]

I've had the HR Bar and the ATR bar. I'm now running the ATR (full throttle) bar and it's great. same 60' with either bar (1.50)and with the ATR bar a 1.54 60' with 17' tires.

 

[motorhead]

One other cheap option is use one off a last gen Blazer. 4 door 2 WD with towing package. You have to drill a couple of holes to mount the end links and weld the mounting pads to the axle but it's cheap and bigger than the stock sway bar. If you want to look at what I'm talking about go to the B4Black section and look up my thread "Finally got some time" and you can see where I've mocked one up on my car. My puter crashed and I lost all the pics of the car but at least I posted the info before it happened.

Look on the first page and see the pic I posted about using the Blazer bar. I forgot I posted it there.

Thanks, I've seen it.

The problem that may exist is that the Blazer unit may not drop properly when the axle is drooped and will get hung up under the center section. Most of the units I listed above are designed similar to the 3rd/4th gen F-body rear sway bars, only difference being the centre distance between the endlinks. For that reason the F-body units will not fit our cars as their frame rails are much further apart... even though the rear LCAs are the same. I have a spare stock F-body bar and brackets laying around and gave it a try the other day.

I am probably going with the Hellwig unit because it is the right size for needs and competitively priced.

 

[charlief1]

Well, kind of. The small brace that runs fron the frame rails to the spring support/crossmember is where it goes. I fitted mne up once already as you saw and it fit fine. The key hee is placing it in a position that will allow it to link right and not bind.

 

[JC3569]

sway bar

I bought a atr sway bar all original never used.I figured it was worth a 100 dollars.all I want is to run 11.40s hopefully this will be fine.

 

[motorhead]

Well, kind of. The small brace that runs fron the frame rails to the spring support/crossmember is where it goes. I fitted mne up once already as you saw and it fit fine. The key hee is placing it in a position that will allow it to link right and not bind.

When you get it all done I'd like to see it. I am not rushing out to get the Hellwig unit until just before the car hits the road again. Maybe you'll save me a few bucks?

 

[usetaboost]

Missed that.

One other cheap option is use one off a last gen Blazer. 4 door 2 WD with towing package. You have to drill a couple of holes to mount the end links and weld the mounting pads to the axle but it's cheap and bigger than the stock sway bar. If you want to look at what I'm talking about go to the B4Black section and look up my thread "Finally got some time" and you can see where I've mocked one up on my car. My puter crashed and I lost all the pics of the car but at least I posted the info before it happened.

Look on the first page and see the pic I posted about using the Blazer bar. I forgot I posted it there.

Hey Charles, how about posting a how to on mounting the blazer bar? Oh, and my friend here in town needs a known good actuator for his 80 turbo monte

 

[charlief1]

Hey Charles, how about posting a how to on mounting the blazer bar? Oh, and my friend here in town needs a known good actuator for his 80 turbo monte

Jeremy knows how to do it Jesse. He's set one up before, or so he's said.

As far as an actuator I can take the one off the car ans send it to you to try. I have no idea if it's good or not though so you pay the shipping and it's yours.:smile:

Mr. T, if I get the chance to set it up I will but things are kinda flat right now and I got the new frame that needs to be prepped. If I get the chance I will do it on that so everyone can see how to do it.:biggrin:

 

[motorhead]

Mr. T, if I get the chance to set it up I will but things are kinda flat right now and I got the new frame that needs to be prepped. If I get the chance I will do it on that so everyone can see how to do it.:biggrin:

Sure, no rush. Could you post the OD (mm or inches) of the bar in the meantime?

There is no way I am returning to a control arm mounted sway bar on this car.

 

[jdpolzin]

Hey Charles, how about posting a how to on mounting the blazer bar? Oh, and my friend here in town needs a known good actuator for his 80 turbo monte

You can actually just get the U bolt and mounting pad so you dont have to weld on the rear end. It's not hard to mount at all. The Blazer swaybar has it's benefit for a cost effective swaybar and I personally would rather run it that any of the big aftermarket control mounted swaybars.

BTW.....You can get the U bolt/bushing/and mounting pad from Hotchkis for under $30!

 

[usetaboost]

You can actually just get the U bolt and mounting pad so you dont have to weld on the rear end. It's not hard to mount at all. The Blazer swaybar has it's benefit for a cost effective swaybar and I personally would rather run it that any of the big aftermarket control mounted swaybars.

BTW.....You can get the U bolt/bushing/and mounting pad from Hotchkis for under $30!

If I didn't know any better I'd say you were really talking me into doing this. Ok you twisted my arm, I'll put it on the list:biggrin: Not that my car makes tons of power or anything, but even with all new bushings and bs parts my car still wants walk like a 3 legged dog when I get down on it from a roll or driving down the street. It doesn't take much to keep it straight, but still, I don't like it. It seems like the stock location is meant more for cornering stability than straight line. I have to get on the car VERY hard to get the rear to break loose on a corner. I should gain both cornering and straight line with the s10 bar, correct? I would think the s10 bar would allow better articulation in the rear AND more equal weight on the rear tires under acceleration????

 

[jdpolzin]

If I didn't know any better I'd say you were really talking me into doing this. Ok you twisted my arm, I'll put it on the list:biggrin: Not that my car makes tons of power or anything, but even with all new bushings and bs parts my car still wants walk like a 3 legged dog when I get down on it from a roll or driving down the street. It doesn't take much to keep it straight, but still, I don't like it. It seems like the stock location is meant more for cornering stability than straight line. I have to get on the car VERY hard to get the rear to break loose on a corner. I should gain both cornering and straight line with the s10 bar, correct? I would think the s10 bar would allow better articulation in the rear AND more equal weight on the rear tires under acceleration????

Jesse, the stock style bar actually hurts articulation by essentially square the lower control arms together and not allowing the rear to swivel.

This is the reason for the rear crossmember mounted style bars. While the S10 bars are a very good solution for budget minded people and can be had for pennies out of the scrap yard, it's not a very agressive bar. Put it this way, compared to your stock bar, you'll notice a hell of a difference. Compare this to a Hellwig bar or any of the others mentioned that are designed with performance in mind, it'll seem like the stock bar and it doesnt have the adjustability of the other bars.

But, for an easy upgrade thats cheap, hell ya use this. It does work very well for the money!!!

 

[charlief1]

If I didn't know any better I'd say you were really talking me into doing this. Ok you twisted my arm, I'll put it on the list:biggrin: Not that my car makes tons of power or anything, but even with all new bushings and bs parts my car still wants walk like a 3 legged dog when I get down on it from a roll or driving down the street. It doesn't take much to keep it straight, but still, I don't like it. It seems like the stock location is meant more for cornering stability than straight line. I have to get on the car VERY hard to get the rear to break loose on a corner. I should gain both cornering and straight line with the s10 bar, correct? I would think the s10 bar would allow better articulation in the rear AND more equal weight on the rear tires under acceleration????

Yes, yes, and yes Jesse.:biggrin: I think I paid like $30 for the one I have and another $15 for the end links so it's cheap. It's a bigger bar and the handling will improve but it has to be set like the HR bar. Put the links on and don't tighten them.

You need to have the chasis loaded with you in the car when you tighten up the links. Do one at a time and which ever one that tightens up and leaves the other loose is the key here. One will allow the other to have a gap and that one you need to shim, Sets up just like the HR bar so you might want to read their instructions to get a better idea.:biggrin:

 

[DoubleD]

Sorry to interrupt, but where did people end up purchasing the Hellwig bar at? I found the part number and all that on the internet from Auto Accessories garage (listed as a dealer on hellwig site), but the application (Buick Skylark) didn't match up with the Part number (55809).

seems priced really low, but if it works that would be fine. I'd like to see an installation of it though.

 

[motorhead]

Sorry to interrupt, but where did people end up purchasing the Hellwig bar at? I found the part number and all that on the internet from Auto Accessories garage (listed as a dealer on hellwig site), but the application (Buick Skylark) didn't match up with the Part number (55809).

seems priced really low, but if it works that would be fine. I'd like to see an installation of it though.

I am having a local distributor confirm the part number w/Hellwig and price it right now. Mostly because it isn't listed in his current price list. More to follow.

 

[just plain john]

Sorry to interrupt, but where did people end up purchasing the Hellwig bar at? I found the part number and all that on the internet from Auto Accessories garage (listed as a dealer on hellwig site), but the application (Buick Skylark) didn't match up with the Part number (55809).

seems priced really low, but if it works that would be fine. I'd like to see an installation of it though.

Isn't the Skylark an A body?