rear end upgrades

SloGN

I'm a ASSHOLE.....
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Guys

I broke my ring gear and pinion in Reynolds . So I want to know what is the strongest gear set I can get for the stock housing. I already have the moser axles and a eaton carrier with a gnx rear cover. The gears were the summit brand
 
I hear ya, I broke an Eaton at Reynolds last year. That track hooks! Last time I researched it, the Strange gears were actually built by Motive and should be about $190 for the set. If there are two sets of Motive gears, get the more expensive one as its better. That's what I'm running now. Quiet and should last.
 
I snapped this pic. At Reynolds last year... was that yours? Blue car I think o_O. ( I know off topic)
 

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My Yukon gears were junk for my 9". Took them out after 60 miles. They gave me a partial refund
 
I fried my Currie 9" fresh rebuild after 30 days street play,(It knife edged the Gear set) i now went locker,billet caps/yoke, an what the hell traction control .
I'm told the bolt-in currie 9" will only hold 435hp.(Now i believe it) There's A company that lifetime warranty there unit's but i can't remember there name, started with an "M" i think ,an Not Moser,was weird name,an there not cheep!!,but you get what you pay for!!...maybe some one will chime in, i read it in a forum on this site while back..

IMG_3168.JPGIMG_3169.JPG

good luck!
 
Guys

I broke my ring and pinion in Reynolds . So I want to know what is the strongest gear set I can get for the stock housing. I already have the miser axles and a eating carrier with a gnx rear cover. The gears were the summit brand
I don't know of anyone making a gear set that is any stronger than stock.
 
For drag racing you want a softer gear, not a stronger one.

Going to a softer gear set doubled their life.

It will not wear as well, but it will dampen and absorb the launch shock load as the harder, more brittle gear will likely break sooner.

I have a couple "toothless" ring gears to illustrate this point! :)

Like all metal parts, the rear end gears have a finite life due to fatigue. Depending on the number of passes, and how hard the launch, they should be replaced before damage takes place.
 
For drag racing you want a softer gear, not a stronger one.

Going to a softer gear set doubled their life.

It will not wear as well, but it will dampen and absorb the launch shock load as the harder, more brittle gear will likely break sooner.

I have a couple "toothless" ring gears to illustrate this point! :)

Like all metal parts, the rear end gears have a finite life due to fatigue. Depending on the number of passes, and how hard the launch, they should be replaced before damage takes place.
Who makes a softer gear set for our 8.5" differentials?
 
I have big ford ends with 35 spline Mark Williams custom axles. I had a set of tubular axle braces welded on before the axle tubes were welded. They may be a little overkill now. I tried to get a recipe for a bullet proof rear end. A local race shop with a specialist on rear ends modified it for me about 10 years ago. It has giant drum brakes on it and I bent a backing plate on the driver's side power braking my way to 10lbs of boost. As soon as I get home I have to get new brake cylinders and bleed my brakes after I repair the backing plates. I have had a twin turbo motor pounding that rearend with no other issues.
 
Who makes a softer gear set for our 8.5" differentials?

My current gear set is a Summit brand that is a "racing" set rather than a street one.

A few years ago I followed my own advise to race my car in a "class" or E.T. about a second slower than it is built to run, so my current goal is high 9's instead of low 9's, and actually it is VERY competitive in our local 10.0 index class with very little carnage. :)

We have found it is more reliable to go with the larger gears in a Ford 9" rear at the 650-700 HP level, which I did not want to use.

I am very comfortable at the 600-650 HP level with much less boost at 18-20 psi, and less carnage on the entire drivetrain! ;)
 
There's A company that lifetime warranty there unit's but i can't remember there name, started with an "M" i think ,an Not Moser,was weird name,an there not cheep!!,but you get what you pay for!!...maybe some one will chime in, i read it in a forum on this site while back..

Ok i was wrong,page 119 in there catalog,Racing parts sold As/Is..heh,,here's there link though

http://www.motivegear.com/index.htm
 
im running the motive gear on a 9 inch rear no problems.i didnt have any issue with the richmond gears either.
 
I have big ford ends with 35 spline Mark Williams custom axles. I had a set of tubular axle braces welded on before the axle tubes were welded. They may be a little overkill now. I tried to get a recipe for a bullet proof rear end. A local race shop with a specialist on rear ends modified it for me about 10 years ago. It has giant drum brakes on it and I bent a backing plate on the driver's side power braking my way to 10lbs of boost. As soon as I get home I have to get new brake cylinders and bleed my brakes after I repair the backing plates. I have had a twin turbo motor pounding that rearend with no other issues.

Please post a pick of the axle tube braces. I was just talking with a buddy and he did the same thing. Ive never seen them.
@ Nick...Look for the steel type on gear sets. Mine are stamped "8620" which is a case hardened steel. They heat treat the outsides of the entire gear set and it leaves the center softer. It provides a stronger wear surface, while maintaining the structural integrity of the entire set. It allows for slight "give" or "twist" without bending or snapping.
 
Well you did it right at least.;) Might be time to switch to a 9" or a 12 bolt. Looks like it knife edged and then finally broke.:(
 
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