Ramps

89SandBagger

New Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2002
Guys, I need to change the oil on my car, and im certainly not gunna trust those hacks at Jiffy Lube. My question is, will I be able to drive my car onto them without ripping up the front end? The car sits pretty low. A little paranoid when it comes to a mint car:)
 
ramps...

I use a set of composite ramps from Wal-Mart. They are called Rhino Ramps and sell for about $30. They clear the front fascia and ground effects with no problem. The only problem I have had is that the rubber "feet" on the bottom wear down and the ramps don't want to stay in place when you drive up onto them. I'm trying to figure out a good way to get them to "stick" to the floor. Good luck.
 
I discovered the secret with the composite ramps. Cars have a forward brake bias. As you drive up on the ramp, the front brakes grab sooner, effectively locking the front wheels on the ramp while the rear wheels keep pushing. In order to combat the ramp sliding problem, you must ascend and descend the ramp using the e-brake only. This keeps the brake bias on the rear wheels so the wheels don't lock and the ramps don't slide. The only time you use the foot brake is when you are lifting the rear of the car by backing up the ramp. Then the front brake bias works fine. :D
 
Yes, I have the Rhino composites from Walmart also, everthing clears ok, good ramps. And in that unlikely event you bump your nice car carrying the ramps, they would be more forgiving than metal ramps.

Question for Terminator :) , do you just activate the e-brake slightly, pushing down about halfway, to eliminate the front brake bias? I like the sound of that, I wondered why the fronts locked up so quick and "squirted" the ramps forward :mad:
 
Hmmm...using the e-brake. That is one of those, "why didn't I think of that?". I'm going to give it a try next week when I change my cat. converter. Thanks!
 
I actually use a clip on the e-brake handle to keep the ratcheting action for locking it. I "fashioned" a piece of a coat hanger so that I pull the handle and insert the hanger to keep the handle all the way out. Then I'm free to use the e-brake with the pedal as much as needed in order to ascend and decend. ;) The clip is actually an old stunt driver trick. It is used on certain manouvers that require a quick stab of the e-brake to momentarily lock the wheels, then release. It's easy with a hand brake, but not so without a lockout clip for a foot operated e-brake.

To make the clip, measure the distance between the flat part of the mount to the ears of the handle when it is fully pulled. double that measurement and add 4 inches. Take a coat hanger and cut it to accomodate the entire length. Bend the hanger into a U shape making the bottom part of the U about the diameter of a dime. The two upright parts of the U should be about a dime's width apart. Now take and bend the bottom part of the U at a 90º angle about an inch from the bottom. Now you pull the e-brake handle all the way out, insert the now 90º bent part over the e-brake rod and down to the flat mount. The two upright parts of the clip should now run parallel to the e-brake rod. When the handle is fully pulled, take the uprights and bend them to circle the handle in it's fully pulled position. You now have a home made e-brake clip. To remove the clip, simply pop the clip off the "ears" of the handle and remove. This will allow a foot controlled e-brake without the ratcheting action locking the pedal. Anyone is still confused, I'll post a pic upon request. Of course, you could just keep your hand on the handle.:eek:
 
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