Questions for 4-post Lift Users/Owners

[turbojimmy]

if there are no huge cracks in your floor

Well, it depends on you you define 'huge'. I have cracks. They're not wide but they're long. They start at a lolly column that holds my upstairs bedroom up. There is a poured concrete pillar underneath it. I think the floor has settled around the pillar, hence the cracks. The cracks run in 3 directions almost perfectly corresponding with "north", "east" and "west" from the pole. The cracks run from the pole to the foundation wall in all 3 directions. Here's a pic:

If you look really close you can see the cracks.

Jim

 

[Turbo Indian]

is that pipe just setting on the concrete floor or is the concrete poured around the pole? if it is poured around the pole it will crack around it. if it is setting on top that is not right. (I poured concrete for a few years, we had a saying yes we guarantee it, we guarantee it to get hard & we guarantee it to crack) when poured around something usually square it will crack off one of the corners of the object, but I have seen it several times crack from round pipes also. what I meant by huge cracks is if it is actually broke & there is a ledge from one piece to the other & I do not see that in your case. something else you could do is to get some larger pieces of 1/4" plate steel say 18"x18" & attach them to the pads of the lift to help distribute the weight & see how that does for a year or so. if it don't get any worse then leave it as is, but if you see big cracks forming then replace the floor & make sure it's compacted properly.

 

[turbojimmy]

is that pipe just setting on the concrete floor or is the concrete poured around the pole? if it is poured around the pole it will crack around it. if it is setting on top that is not right. (I poured concrete for a few years, we had a saying yes we guarantee it, we guarantee it to get hard & we guarantee it to crack) when poured around something usually square it will crack off one of the corners of the object, but I have seen it several times crack from round pipes also. what I meant by huge cracks is if it is actually broke & there is a ledge from one piece to the other & I do not see that in your case. something else you could do is to get some larger pieces of 1/4" plate steel say 18"x18" & attach them to the pads of the lift to help distribute the weight & see how that does for a year or so. if it don't get any worse then leave it as is, but if you see big cracks forming then replace the floor & make sure it's compacted properly.

There's a poured concrete pillar underneath that pipe. The pipe is sitting on top of it and the concrete is poured around it. It cracked pretty much as soon as it dried. It's been like that for 8 years and hasn't gotten any worse.

So I guess it's not that big of a deal. I might just put the lift in, park the Buick on top of it and raise it up a little and let it sit for the winter. If it looks good after a few months I'll introduce the Caddy to the equation.

Thanks for all the advice.

Jim

 

[Turbo Indian]

I always thought I wanted a 2 post lift but as my shop keeps getting toys stuffed in it I'm running out of room so now I thinking about the 4 post so I can store my firebird up top with the wifes vette under it. only thing is is I know I will need the drip pans because if I got ANYTHING on her car she would throw a huge hissy fit. I think it would be too much of a PITA to have to be so carefull opening the doors when you get out of the car on bottom.

 

[Ringo]

My buddy has a 4 post rotary with two sliding center jacks. We have pulled transmissions with lots of room . The center jacks are not cheap. I have an old line-o-tronics 2 post. They dont make them like this anymore 3/4 plate steel it will lift 10,000 lbs. Rotary is by far the best lift out there.Very reliable. If you were around chicago I have a guy that installs them. He can get used and new rotary lifts priced very fair.

Hi, I live in Lombard, just outside of Chicago and am looking for a new rotary 4 post lift. Let me know if your friend can help me out, looking to have it setup by spring.

Thanks

 

[chopped39]

lifts

I will pm you his number. I believe he lives around lombard. he set a bunch of lifts up for friends of mine . He just set up a lift at my buddies shop down the street from me in addison.

 

[DCVING 6]

You better hope she doesn't find out the truth or we know whose chalk outline will be on the floor.

Everytime I mention the lift, I just get eyes rolling... So I always mention how big and beautiful the kitchen will be in the new house. It seems to quiet things down.

 

[Chrisk]

Heres my 4 post from greg smith equipment. And I also had my door modified to open closer to the ceiling, and eliminated the door opener in the middle to a jackshaft opener. Here is a link to the opener.. Jackshaft operators, Residential jackshaft door openers, Model 3800

 

[turbojimmy]

Heres my 4 post from greg smith equipment. And I also had my door modified to open closer to the ceiling, and eliminated the door opener in the middle to a jackshaft opener. Here is a link to the opener.. Jackshaft operators, Residential jackshaft door openers, Model 3800

Nice. What's your ceiling height? Did you modify the tracks yourself? I was looking at the tracks yesterday and I'm not really sure where to begin with them. I guess I just move the horizontal pieces up close to the ceiling and then close the gaps with vertical pieces on each side. I was looking at a torsion bar arrangement for springs and an opener.

Turns out my local Rotary guy doesn't want to negotiate at all off of 'suggested retail'. It would be around $4k w/ tax which is more than I wanted to spend. I've seen them for a lot less delivered but he's saying there's no margin built into the pricing.

Backyard Buddy is plan B.

Thanks all!

Jim

 

[turbojimmy]

Welp, I found a Rotary dealer willing to negotiate and got them to come down a few hundred bucks off the 'suggested retail price'.

I did the chalk outlines and it looks like the lift will fit in nicely and not really cause any intrusion into 'the wife's' side of the garage.

I just need to figure out how to get a 2,000 lb. pallet to my house and off the truck.

Jim

 

[Grumpy]

maybe try and get a deal on an installed and delivered price I never touched mine .. 3 hours later I was using it

 

[turbojimmy]

maybe try and get a deal on an installed and delivered price I never touched mine .. 3 hours later I was using it

I'll probably do that actually. The first guy said it would be $1,000 to install. I said forget it, I'll do it myself. The new guy I'm talking to says $500, which includes them forklifting it off the truck (which I have no means of doing). For $500 it's worth it to have it done.

I drilled through the concrete today. Well, not 'through'. I got down 3" and the drill wouldn't go anymore. I destroyed 2 1/2" concrete bits but whatever I hit wouldn't budge. It looks like a stone, which makes me think that 3" is the end of the concrete? So I only have a 3" floor? Dunno. I'd try another spot but I need another bit.

The garage door looks kind of complicated. Can anyone that has had their door moved closer to the ceiling take some pics of the rails? Particularly where they approach the top of the door. It looks like with the 'stock' arrangement, the curved piece of track pushes the top of the door against the opening to 'seal' it. If I moved that curved piece of track 32" upward (which is what I want to do) I'm going to upset this arrangement.

Last, I measured the height of the GN today. I found a source on the Web that has the Regal sitting at 53" but mine sits 55". This puts the car 4" from the ceiling which is plenty to get it off the locks but still pretty tight.

Jim

 

[Grumpy]

I'll probably do that actually. The first guy said it would be $1,000 to install. I said forget it, I'll do it myself. The new guy I'm talking to says $500, which includes them forklifting it off the truck (which I have no means of doing). For $500 it's worth it to have it done.

I drilled through the concrete today. Well, not 'through'. I got down 3" and the drill wouldn't go anymore. I destroyed 2 1/2" concrete bits but whatever I hit wouldn't budge. It looks like a stone, which makes me think that 3" is the end of the concrete? So I only have a 3" floor? Dunno. I'd try another spot but I need another bit.

The garage door looks kind of complicated. Can anyone that has had their door moved closer to the ceiling take some pics of the rails? Particularly where they approach the top of the door. It looks like with the 'stock' arrangement, the curved piece of track pushes the top of the door against the opening to 'seal' it. If I moved that curved piece of track 32" upward (which is what I want to do) I'm going to upset this arrangement.

Last, I measured the height of the GN today. I found a source on the Web that has the Regal sitting at 53" but mine sits 55". This puts the car 4" from the ceiling which is plenty to get it off the locks but still pretty tight.

Jim

That would be the best $500 ya spent... they drill the floor and everything ... they will know if there is a problem there to ... They set up my ramps to rest about a 1/2" away from the bottom of the door .. (4 post right ??)
Now as far as the garage door... it's a PITA but can be done .. I am doing new ones now with a new track ... Ill get ya some pics when its done..(within a week ...wellll it better be done by then )

enjoy your new toy

 

[A2000RICH]

I'll probably do that actually. The first guy said it would be $1,000 to install. I said forget it, I'll do it myself. The new guy I'm talking to says $500, which includes them forklifting it off the truck (which I have no means of doing). For $500 it's worth it to have it done.

I drilled through the concrete today. Well, not 'through'. I got down 3" and the drill wouldn't go anymore. I destroyed 2 1/2" concrete bits but whatever I hit wouldn't budge. It looks like a stone, which makes me think that 3" is the end of the concrete? So I only have a 3" floor? Dunno. I'd try another spot but I need another bit.

The garage door looks kind of complicated. Can anyone that has had their door moved closer to the ceiling take some pics of the rails? Particularly where they approach the top of the door. It looks like with the 'stock' arrangement, the curved piece of track pushes the top of the door against the opening to 'seal' it. If I moved that curved piece of track 32" upward (which is what I want to do) I'm going to upset this arrangement.

Last, I measured the height of the GN today. I found a source on the Web that has the Regal sitting at 53" but mine sits 55". This puts the car 4" from the ceiling which is plenty to get it off the locks but still pretty tight.

Jim

turbo jimmy---------you are worrying way too much about your lift installation------i personally have several lifts 2&4 post----- and have installed them all------and helped several friends do theirs-----your choice of a 4 post is wise in my opinion------if i could only have one i would choose a 4 post-------i really don't think there is much need to bolt them down---------i move mine quite often since i have large garage but the 4 post units are VERY stable-------a 2 post MUST be bolted down------if you can change the oil in your car you can assemble a lift with the help of one other person---------two guys can lift any part on a 4 post lift so it is easy to unload and assemble--------as for the concrete there is only one reason for 3000+ rating--------that is if you are going to use concrete anchors to bolt it down--------they have a way of pulling out or deforming the concrete when they are tightened if the concrete is substandard--------but since they are not necessary for a 4 post you are fine with the concrete you have--------if its safe to drive a car on it you can rest assured its fine for a 4 post-------the tire footprint of your TR puts more pressure per sq inch than a 4 post lift---------think about it---------even CHEAP 4 post lifts have feet at least 8" X 8"-------thats 64 sq inches-------a 4000 lb car with a 2000 lb lift is 6000lbs------divide that by 4 (for 4 legs) and you get 1500 lbs-------1500lbs divided by 64 sq inches is 24 lbs per sq inch---------give yourself a 2:1 safety factor and you still need only 50 lbs per sq inch---------heck you can get that on firm dirt---------in fact i have set mine outside on dirt more than once to do under car washing/detailing------i have a set of dollys and its not too hard to move--------of course this has to be done without a car on it--------i really know what i am talking about here based on lots of experience with car lifts-----------if i were installing it for a business and knew lots of untrained idiots were going to be using the lift i too would insist that it be installed on 4inch 3600lb concrete with 3/4" anchors--------buts thats not the case and if you ever are concerned you can always do it later but i'll bet long money that if you do you will someday wonder why you were ever worried..............RC

 

[turbojimmy]

turbo jimmy---------you are worrying way too much about your lift installation------i personally have several lifts 2&4 post----- and have installed them all------and helped several friends do theirs-----your choice of a 4 post is wise in my opinion------if i could only have one i would choose a 4 post-------i really don't think there is much need to bolt them down---------i move mine quite often since i have large garage but the 4 post units are VERY stable-------a 2 post MUST be bolted down------if you can change the oil in your car you can assemble a lift with the help of one other person---------two guys can lift any part on a 4 post lift so it is easy to unload and assemble--------as for the concrete there is only one reason for 3000+ rating--------that is if you are going to use concrete anchors to bolt it down--------they have a way of pulling out or deforming the concrete when they are tightened if the concrete is substandard--------but since they are not necessary for a 4 post you are fine with the concrete you have--------if its safe to drive a car on it you can rest assured its fine for a 4 post-------the tire footprint of your TR puts more pressure per sq inch than a 4 post lift---------think about it---------even CHEAP 4 post lifts have feet at least 8" X 8"-------thats 64 sq inches-------a 4000 lb car with a 2000 lb lift is 6000lbs------divide that by 4 (for 4 legs) and you get 1500 lbs-------1500lbs divided by 64 sq inches is 24 lbs per sq inch---------give yourself a 2:1 safety factor and you still need only 50 lbs per sq inch---------heck you can get that on firm dirt---------in fact i have set mine outside on dirt more than once to do under car washing/detailing------i have a set of dollys and its not too hard to move--------of course this has to be done without a car on it--------i really know what i am talking about here based on lots of experience with car lifts-----------if i were installing it for a business and knew lots of untrained idiots were going to be using the lift i too would insist that it be installed on 4inch 3600lb concrete with 3/4" anchors--------buts thats not the case and if you ever are concerned you can always do it later but i'll bet long money that if you do you will someday wonder why you were ever worried..............RC

Thanks Richard. I tend to over-analyze things. My brother's opinion is the same as yours: it will be fine; just do it.

That would be the best $500 ya spent... they drill the floor and everything ... they will know if there is a problem there to ... They set up my ramps to rest about a 1/2" away from the bottom of the door .. (4 post right ??)
Now as far as the garage door... it's a PITA but can be done .. I am doing new ones now with a new track ... Ill get ya some pics when its done..(within a week ...wellll it better be done by then )

enjoy your new toy

Yes, 4-post. Ramps about 1/2" from the door is what I calculated when I drew the footprint on the floor. I was worried that one of the posts would interfere with the other bay and/or my circuit breaker panel which is on the wall in the 'lift bay'. Looks like it will be okay.

I looked at some pics at Backyard Buddy. Guys that have their doors modified do not appear to have done anything special other than raise the rails. Looks simple - vertical rails and horizontal rails. It appears as if the vertical rails are simply extended to meet the horizontal rails. The problem is buying vertical rails that aren't pre-engineered for a standard 7-ft. tall door. No one seems to have them. Would need custom bracketry, too. Some people add another panel to the door in order to maintain the geometry for the overhead-type openers (they pull on the top of the door) but I'm going to go with a torsion bar arrangement w/ a jackshaft-type opener so that shouldn't be a problem. The new spring/opener arrangement adds to the overall cost of the project, but I've been thinking about doing that for a while because my bedroom is above the garage and the openers bolted to the ceiling make a gawdawful amount of noise.

Thanks!

Jim

 

[2QUIK6]

You can also always watch the paper for shops going out of business in your area and selling their equipment. Can usually get lifts for $1000 or less.
Got my 2-post for $800. They referred me to a guy that would dissamble it at their shop and drop it off at my place and drill the holes in the concrete for installation for $200... then I rented a fork lift to aid in the assembly for another $230.
You'll wonder why you didn't buy a lift years ago...I hardly ever take the car anywhere to have anything done now, even exhaust shops are a joke now

 

[turbojimmy]

You can also always watch the paper for shops going out of business in your area and selling their equipment. Can usually get lifts for $1000 or less.
Got my 2-post for $800. They referred me to a guy that would dissamble it at their shop and drop it off at my place and drill the holes in the concrete for installation for $200... then I rented a fork lift to aid in the assembly for another $230.
You'll wonder why you didn't buy a lift years ago...I hardly ever take the car anywhere to have anything done now, even exhaust shops are a joke now

Nice. I wish I had all that room. My garage is tight, but the lift will help with that as well. Instead of rolling around under the car and scattering tools all around it I can just walk around under it.

I decided to outsource the garage door work to a pro. I looked at it for a long time and decided that there are a lot of little things there that need to be accounted for - angles, geometry, spring tension, etc. A local guy is going to do it next week for $350 including parts and the new torsion bar arrangement. He says the closest he can get it to the ceiling is 6", which is okay. It will still clear the hood or trunk of the GN with the lift at its highest setting. He says he also needs to install tapered drums that will change the amount of lift on the door as it goes up so that it will stay open even though half of it will be vertical (as opposed to now where it goes horizontal when you open it and the springs have no tension on them).

Jim

 

[Grumpy]

I decided to outsource the garage door work to a pro. I looked at it for a long time and decided that there are a lot of little things there that need to be accounted for - angles, geometry, spring tension, etc. A local guy is going to do it next week for $350 including parts and the new torsion bar arrangement. He says the closest he can get it to the ceiling is 6", which is okay. It will still clear the hood or trunk of the GN with the lift at its highest setting. He says he also needs to install tapered drums that will change the amount of lift on the door as it goes up so that it will stay open even though half of it will be vertical (as opposed to now where it goes horizontal when you open it and the springs have no tension on them).

Jim

well worth the $$$ believe me

 

[skyhawk jr]

got my 4 post lift from Automotive Service Equipment - auto lifts, car lifts, welders, tire changers
1855 delivered to a business address.
i ordered 2 and have no problems at all with them.
took 3 hrs to install myself.
i did a lot of research before ordering and this was the best deal for a drive on lift.
if you are going to do daily repairs then i would recommend a rotary or a mohawk as they are the best and nothing beats a 2 post lift.
as far as my lift my garage floor sucks and is far from level but i dont have it bolted to the floor and it works fine. it will not move around with the weight on it. i also put the wheels on it and roll it outside so i can clean the garage easier. also you dont need 220 for it to work.

 

[turbojimmy]

Well, step one is complete:

With a 'cash discount' the door mods came in way cheaper than me screwing around with it for an entire weekend and probably still not having it work right. I should move that light socket above the door but I think I'm just going to put a manual stop on the door to keep it from hitting it (already sheared the bulb off with the door). Technically I should move the opener outlet to the front so the new opener can plug into it but I can get away with an extension cord for now. And, need to install said opener.

The installation of the lift itself is back up to $1K so I'm going to do it myself....I pick it up on 12/26!

Jim