Problem removing cam sensor

[RICER X]

As I mention rotate the engine until #1 piston is TDC and both timing marks are facing each other, once you replace with new timing chain with same marking facing each other then you need to make a new mark the balancer.
If you know this or not read this and very important do you know how to prime for oil pressure?
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm

Is the set up that wb's87 is using a good setup. I'm thinking this is going to be on my to do list for next winter.

 

[GNONYX]

There are some thing missing since wb's87 might already know what to do, but her are some addition thing for you to read before doing the job.
Like I said many times if in doubt ask questions, many will chime in to help you out.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/tchain.html

You can get most of the parts from NAPA for a reasonable price:

New tensioner – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95158_0191974675
$4.84

Updated cam button NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95189_019197467
$15.14

Front cover gasket set – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=tcs45930&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=599001+101987+50008+2
$9.99
You might not have to get another oil pan gasket if your is rubber made, just make sure it's clean on both ends

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1522B
Called them for verification of timing chain replacement

Others may chime in but I used red loc-tite on the Cam bolts

First and most important disconnect the orange wire behind the battery, and you must have an oil pressure gauge in order to make sure you do built up oil pressure before you reconnect the orange wire for start up.

I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in oil pan , then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT start the engine, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back; set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge. Remove prime tool rotate crank shaft to new marking of 25* after TDC install the Cam Sensor as per Casper's Instruction.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=653

And it you don't have a Casper Cam Sensor Tool then you use this read up.
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm

If for any reason you feel uncertain or have some doubts, ask many questions before proceeding to something you don't know of and then regrets doing it.
Take your time have patience, and the most important of doing this replacement is make sure you have oil pressure before starting engine!!!!

Here is some more for you to think of:
Everyone has their own version of the oil pan gasket. I myself installed a rubber/fiberglass oil pan gasket and no leak.
As far not dropping the pan, that's one thing you might not have a choice. The oil pan cover has to drop down in order for the timing cover to slide onto both dowel pins and then you can bolt the oil pan with gasket up against the timing cover.

Also there are four long bolts that go through the water jacket engine block, and I used Pertmatex Thread Sealant with PTFE (Item #80632).

 

[Jay J]

Great advice in the previous post. Do pay attention to priming the system.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

And don't forget that once the timing chain is installed, to rotate the engine one full revolution. This puts the engine at TDC #1 with both timing marks at 12:00.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[GNONYX]

Place align timing marks on both sprockets so they are close together as possible

 

[wb's87]

And don't forget that once the timing chain is installed, to rotate the engine one full revolution. This puts the engine at TDC #1 with both timing marks at 12:00.

RemoveBeforeFlight

Thank you for the info. Before I removed the timing cover I removed dS valve cover and turned engine over watching the rockers. At the point both #1 rockers closed the balancer timing mark was at zero degrees on the timing tab. I thought this position was TDC #1? I then turned balancer an additional 1.45" which I know now was a mistake. I'm not questioning your comment but trying to understand as this is my first time doing this job. And hopefully the last. Lol. It has been fun but stressful til I get it back together and all is good.

 

[GNONYX]

Read this http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/tchain.html
I grind and painted a second timing mark (white color) on the balancer shown in the PDF file, Casper Cam tool setting instruction.
When you assemble all together and place the balancer back on (220 ft-lb) with blue lock-tite, rotate the balancer to the new TDC and then process to prime the oil pump as the instruction I mention on thread #42
After oil pressure is present on oil pressure gauge, re-install cam sensor back according to the PDF file of Casper Cam tool Instruction.
Ask questions if you feel something is not right with your procedure you are doing.

 

[earlbrown]

Sounds to me like you did it right.

 

[GNONYX]

Her is another good info for the future

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Thank you for the info. Before I removed the timing cover I removed dS valve cover and turned engine over watching the rockers. At the point both #1 rockers closed the balancer timing mark was at zero degrees on the timing tab. I thought this position was TDC #1? I then turned balancer an additional 1.45" which I know now was a mistake. I'm not questioning your comment but trying to understand as this is my first time doing this job. And hopefully the last. Lol. It has been fun but stressful til I get it back together and all is good.

At this point I'm not sure. I've sent emails to some folks that will know. I looked at your pictures on the first page and it does look like the engine is at TDC #1 with the marks lined up (I realize that you moved 25* past TDC).

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[RICER X]

Thanks guys. This is a lot of really good info. I would have never realized it was this involved, it's a far cry from my old SBC,s.

 

[wb's87]

I sincerely want to thank everyone who responded to my thread!

I'm out of town for the weekend and hope to start getting things back together on Monday. Having you all helping me out is such a great feeling to know if I screw something up that so many great people on here are willing to help!

Needless to say I love this forum!

 

[m233roller]

I was talked into the Hi volume front cover bit years ago and I had two cam sensors go to hell on me and when I tore that engine down you should of seen how bad the front cam bearing was !!! I have been running nothing but GM covers and I've been doing the oiling mods on mine for years and all my engines have very good oil pressure.

 

[wb's87]

Bill, would you be so kind as to post some pics of the upper timing gear without the chain. I'm very interested to see the condition of the teeth and if there are any notable cracks. What do you intend on replacing the chain with? Double roller?

I just got some time today to get back to the timing chain project. I guess I'm one of the lucky one. The old set looks pretty good.

Anybody need a like new original timing set? Lol
New set is installed.

Now I just have to remember how all the rest goes back together. Lol.

 

[wb's87]

I was just noticing, does anyone think it's weird how high the teeth ride on the top sprocket?

 

[GNONYX]

I was just noticing, does anyone think it's weird how high the teeth ride on the top sprocket?

If your comparing against your old set then yes the new ones are correctly high and if you look at your first inserted picture at 9:00 you can see the tip is starting to get shorter; just in time for replacement.

 

[earlbrown]

Those teeth are radisued at the time and the pic was taken with a flash. Odds are it doesn't look like that in real life.

If the bottom OEM gear doesn't have signs of wear, save it. They've been discontinued for years.

 

[gusszgs]

Thanks for the pics. Might be the pics but those gears look to be in very good shape considering the mileage/time. Any signs of cracking or fatigue between the teeth?

 

[wb's87]

Thanks for the pics. Might be the pics but those gears look to be in very good shape considering the mileage/time. Any signs of cracking or fatigue between the teeth?

I used a magnifying glass and took a really good look. Everything looks good to me. The chain may have been slightly stretched but idk for sure.

 

[wb's87]

Those teeth are radisued at the time and the pic was taken with a flash. Odds are it doesn't look like that in real life.

If the bottom OEM gear doesn't have signs of wear, save it. They've been discontinued for years.

Actually I plan on calling Comp Cams tomorrow about the new chain. To me it doesn't seem to fit the gear very well. May be it's supposed to be that way but it seems to be riding awfully high on the sprocket.