PREVENT orange ECM connector from making contact?

[JimK]

Unplug the crank sensor. Connection plug is hidden way down low on the engine.

Hmmmm, can you get to that from the top? Isn't that behind the bottom left pulley if I recall? Don't think I'll be able to go in from the bottom at this juncture. But that would make it run like crap ... or actually, yeah wouldn't even start would it.

 

[achalmersman]

Ok, that sounds like a plan. Sorry to sound like such a newb, but how would I go about blowing the fuse across a battery ... like a 9volt? (Just trying to figure out the logistics of the spacing between battery terminals and the fuse pins.

With regards to the wastegate ... although, they could readily see that though if the hood is popped, which it inevitably will be. That's right in the front. I can't remember if it is a full turn or quarter turn, or in what direction. I feel like it was 1 turn counter-clockwise to drop 1 lb of boost. Any idea?

Typically its close to 1 psi per turn. But,if you unhook the rod completely the car will be a complete pig. To blow the fuse you could try a 9v. This going to spark so dont be surprised if you jump. You can also just use some jumper wires and short it across the car battery. If you dont like doing this with your hands youll have to get creative and use a high current load like a fan or headlight curcuit etc. I would just blow it across the battery.

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[TURBOELKY]

Just cut the harness in half under the hood. It won't start, I'm pretty sure.

 

[JimK]

Typically its close to 1 psi per turn. But,if you unhook the rod completely the car will be a complete pig. To blow the fuse you could try a 9v. This going to spark so dont be surprised if you jump. You can also just use some jumper wires and short it across the car battery. If you dont like doing this with your hands youll have to get creative and use a high current load like a fan or headlight curcuit etc. I would just blow it across the battery.

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Ahh, good idea with the car batt., and jumpers. Just hook clamp on to one pin I imagine (say black), lay it on the ground, and then touch the other pin with the red, should do it eh?

I guess another option might be to put the 10-AMP fuse (CCCI) into a 20-AMP slot (like the cig-lighter, or turn signals I believe are 20AMP) and then use them. Then just put the good 20-amp back in its place, and the blow 10-amp back in the CCCI slot. Although I guess there's a chance they might not blow right away, eh?

Wastegate: Does counter-clockwise sound right? Although I completely forget how to adjust them to be honest ... I think I did it once after getting too thick of head-gasket once. Do they literally just turn (sorry can't look at the moment) or do you need to disconnect them first? And could I turn it like 16 times? Sorry for so many questions, my friend ... Looked online for a video, but didn't see any.

 

[achalmersman]

Ahh, good idea with the car batt., and jumpers. Just hook clamp on to one pin I imagine (say black), lay it on the ground, and then touch the other pin with the red, should do it eh?

I guess another option might be to put the 10-AMP fuse (CCCI) into a 20-AMP slot (like the cig-lighter, or turn signals I believe are 20AMP) and then use them. Then just put the good 20-amp back in its place, and the blow 10-amp back in the CCCI slot. Although I guess there's a chance they might not blow right away, eh?

Wastegate: Does counter-clockwise sound right? Although I completely forget how to adjust them to be honest ... I think I did it once after getting too thick of head-gasket once. Do they literally just turn (sorry can't look at the moment) or do you need to disconnect them first? And could I turn it like 16 times? Sorry for so many questions, my friend ... Looked online for a video, but didn't see any.

Yes it must be disconnected first to turn it and making the rod shorter increases boost. But dont do that. Just disconnect it and leave it off. Yes you could do that with the fuse but pick a more constant load like headlamps, fan, blower, etc. I would just blow it with the battery. Questions are what this forum is for!

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[JimK]

Yes it must be disconnected first to turn it and making the rod shorter increases boost. But dont do that. Just disconnect it and leave it off. Yes you could do that with the fuse but pick a more constant load like headlamps, fan, blower, etc. I would just blow it with the battery. Questions are what this forum is for!

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Thanks, man ... appreciate it. Only reason I keep "harping" on the turning, rather than just disconnecting, is I don't want it to be anything visible. It would seem odd that it just came unhooked. Whereas I feel like if I just dropped the boost to 1 or something really low, it would have the desired effect and not draw any flags. Is there a downside (other than time and ease) to just cranking it down a whole bunch?

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

I have a hidden fuel pump shut off switch, but I like the ccci disconnection idea as well. I might add that with a hidden switch somewhere else.
I like being able to crank the engine over after an oil change to build oil pressure before starting it.

 

[JimK]

I have a hidden fuel pump shut off switch, but I like the ccci disconnection idea as well. I might add that with a hidden switch somewhere else.
I like being able to crank the engine over after an oil change to build oil pressure before starting it.

That's what I used to use the orange ECM plug for now that I think about it, way back when ... until I learned I was wiping my "hard earned" data. BLM's (block learn memory) if I recall.

 

[rodruckus]

Go to Kirban's and check out his mystery theft deterrent. It simple plugs into the orange ecm wire and looks factory, but gives you a removable fuse you can hide that'll prevent your car from starting.

Btw, you mentioned you have a "well known" wheel chip. No offense, but if that's the case you're a fool. Whatever theft deterrent measure you decide to take, how bout you make sure it doesn't become "well known," bud.

 

[Pronto]

PS> Sorry, that's what I should have titled and premised my post: "How can I (temporarily and quickly) make my GN seem like a piece of junk (mechanically)"

Pour a quart of oil under it and unplug the maf.

 

[TurboDave]

Go to Kirban's and check out his mystery theft deterrent. It simple plugs into the orange ecm wire and looks factory, but gives you a removable fuse you can hide that'll prevent your car from starting.

Btw, you mentioned you have a "well known" wheel chip. No offense, but if that's the case you're a fool. Whatever theft deterrent measure you decide to take, how bout you make sure it doesn't become "well known," bud.

Only one problem! If one has a programmable like many do these days you loose your program with that device.


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[rodruckus]

Unplugging the maf won't make your TR not start, it'll put it in default mode instead. If your TR is running poorly, unplugging the maf is a good way to test to see if it's gone bad. After unplugging it, if your issue clears up, then you know it's your maf. I've actually had to unplug mine a couple of times in the past when it's gone out, just so I could drive to where I needed to get to.

 

[rodruckus]

Only one problem! If one has a programmable like many do these days you loose your program with that device.


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Turbo Tweak sells a tune saver for $40 that plugs into the ecm as well. It's supposed to save your tune if your battery dies or needs to be replaced.

Maybe someone can answer whether or not you can install the 2 of them together in line?

 

[Coelacanth]

Turbo Tweak sells a tune saver for $40 that plugs into the ecm as well. It's supposed to save your tune if your battery dies or needs to be replaced

Eric's new AXiS interface also shouldn't lose a tune if the battery is disconnected, I'm pretty sure he mentioned it wasn't necessary to buy the tune saver if using the AXiS. So if that's the case, removing the hidden fuse from the orange wire shouldn't cause the tune to be lost, is that correct?

 

[Pronto]

Unplugging the maf will make the car run like crap, thus satifying his quest to make it look like a shitbox.

 

[JimK]

Go to Kirban's and check out his mystery theft deterrent. It simple plugs into the orange ecm wire and looks factory, but gives you a removable fuse you can hide that'll prevent your car from starting.

That sounds pretty cool, but I just don't have the time unfortunately. Will keep it in mind for the future though.

Btw, you mentioned you have a "well known" wheel chip. No offense, but if that's the case you're a fool. Whatever theft deterrent measure you decide to take, how bout you make sure it doesn't become "well known," bud.

No, it isn't well known to the general public, that would be idiotic. Besides myself and this one person I am trying to fool, no one else knows about it. Well, maybe my wife, but she wouldn't know what she was looking for or where to look, lol.

 

[JimK]

Thanks for all the additional ideas everyone, including the MAF ... but sounds like I'd need to put in a BAD MAF, rather than just unplug.

If I do the wastegate, I can't remember, do I need to do anything special to unhook it? Is it just a pin/clip holding it on there that you can pull off with a pair of pliers? And again, any downside to cranking it way down instead of just leaving undone? (Other than time and ease of course.)

Thanks!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Cut 1 leg off a good fuse. Put it back in.

 

[JimK]

Got the fuse done ... now just have to mess with the fuse box in 100 degree weather. Weee! I took a look at the wastegate, but not sure how to take it off. Although, I don't have the greatest lighting at the moment.

 

[achalmersman]

Got the fuse done ... now just have to mess with the fuse box in 100 degree weather. Weee! I took a look at the wastegate, but not sure how to take it off. Although, I don't have the greatest lighting at the moment.

Break the lock nut loose before removing rod. Then remove the little horse shoe clip with a pick tool while holding with your thumb so it doesnt go flying. Then pull off with pliers but dont damage threads. Then lengthen the rod as long as you want. Then reverse proceedure.

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