Possible False Knock

[irrompible]

Hey guys, me again

I've been narrowing the list of problems I'm having with my TR down, and I'm left with the following...

BLM hangs around 140 - 142 at idle:
This has been an on going problem. I have checked for all possible vac leaks and have found none so I suspect a fuel problem. I have a FP gauge on order so I'll get back to you all with that info. I suppose it's also possible the pump is on it's way out (150,000 miles on pump) how long do they normally last? Weird thing is, if the car is at idle, and I give it a little bit of throttle every now and then (imagine being stuck in very slow moving traffic) then the BLM's will actually drop to 128 and hang there. This is until I get up to speed and come to another stop where they'll be back at ~140.

Knock showing on SM:
This one has me stumped. If it's real knock, then it could certainly be caused by the fuel problem I suspect is causing the high BLM's. But I suspect it is false, and here is why. First of all I'm running 93 oct on a completely stock TR. Now this knock only shows up once in awhile. For example, I could go WOT from a stop light and shut it down at 70 mph all with 0 knock. I could also be cruising down the highway at 65, give it a little gas to pass a car and end up with 6 degress of knock retard. It's because of those two examples that I suspect the knock is false. I'm going to check for broken motor mounts tomorrow and will report back with that info. If I do find they are broken, will a set of stock ones hold me over until I save up for the HRParts mounts?

Sorry for the long post, but I'd really like to get these two issues worked out. If you guys need any additional readings off the SM let me know.

 

[Pats-GN]

I would look into getting a new fuel pump and hotwire kit, this solved some knock issues when my car was stock.

 

[irrompible]

Originally posted by Pats-GN
I would look into getting a new fuel pump and hotwire kit, this solved some knock issues when my car was stock.

Yeah, that's next on the list to be replaced.

I was checking out the engine compartment today and noticed that the bottom of my downpipe is hitting the corner of the a-arm. There is a dent on the bottom of the pipe where it is hitting. I was pushing down on the corner of the car to see just how much it had to move in order to hit, and it would have to be a major bump. I say this because I also checked out the engine mounts, and they appear to be fine. I put the car in drive and held the brake while hitting the gas a few times and the engine hardly budges. None the less, the DP is still hitting, so fixing that problem won't hurt.

Could anyone clue me in to where the knock sensor is located? If possible I want to make sure it is properly torqued, and also switch it with a buddies to see if mine could possibly be defective.

 

[gn4u2c]

knock sensor is on the top under the coil pack

sounds like a case of "old car" to me. get a new pump / hotwire kit. also replace your mounts (stock is fine for a close to stock car) also change your PCV valve with a new delco unit.

go get 2-3 gallons of xylene and a few teaspoons of marvel oil and pu it with 10 gallons of gas ( same time) and that should help clear that old thing out.

 

[stockv6]

If all else fails, swap out coil pack/modules with your friend. Make sure you tighten all the bolts that how its grounded.

 

[snodgrass]

You might want to pull the vacuum line off the EGR valve and see if that cures your problem. If the EGR valve hangs up, it will make the motor run lean. (high BLM's and knock under load will be the result). The EGR should only open under cruising conditions, and may not be closing properly at idle. Get your car idling properly with correct BLM's (by blipping the throttle like you said), then pull the hose of the EGR and plug it with a bolt. Then take the car for a drive and see if the problem is gone. It will only take a couple minutes to try. Good luck, Jeff

 

[irrompible]

Thanks for the tips guys! I'll post back with results.

 

[irrompible]

Just an observation I had today. This was on the highway at around 55 mph. I gave it some gas to pass some traffic and my boost was reading 4 psi. I watched as the o2 millivolts went from 853 > 850 > 840 > 835 > ect. As they reached around 840 knock retard showed up, and the lower they went the more I got. I'm assuming this comfirms a fuel delivery problem? The pump was replaced in 1997 with a stock unit. The car sat for about 2 years from around 2001 to 2003 only being driven a handful of times a year. Any thoughts?