Oil filter blew apart internally

robzombie

robzombie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2012
I changed my oil this past weekend and when I inspected the filter [PF47] I saw that the round screen was blown out and the filter media was exposed and pushed past the screen.

Externally it looked fine.

I am wondering what could cause this?? Is it because I have 80# cold oil pressure or maybe just a defective filter?

Thankfully I only had about 1,000 miles on the oil, I run valvoline full synthetic 5/20.

Why I changed it early is a whole different story, and I can't believe my motor wasn't hurt in any way.

Thanks RZ
 
I put a pure one on there and will look into a better alternative [wix or??], I also would like to get a bigger one that holds more oil and will also filter more oil.
 
Just get a napa gold 1036 or a wix 51036 they are equivalent to the AC52s.. and thread right on to the stock filter threads.... 47s were stock (and too small), but AC filters are junk now. First thing you do with these cars are to ditch that dinky AC47 or similar and step up to a bigger filter.
 
robzombie said:
I changed my oil this past weekend and when I inspected the filter [PF47] I saw that the round screen was blown out and the filter media was exposed and pushed past the screen.

Externally it looked fine.

I am wondering what could cause this??
Click to expand...


It was caused by the orange paint and the word 'Fram' on the outside. They are, by far, the worst filter that can be bought.


EDIT: That's a 'Delco' part number. Those are almost as as much of a POS as the Fram since they moved overseas a few years ago. The start up rattles are right at the same level as each other from the piss poor antidrainback valves.
 
earlbrown said:
It was caused by the orange paint and the word 'Fram' on the outside. They are, by far, the worst filter that can be bought.
Click to expand...

PF47 is an AC Delco number... i think the equivalent Fram is a 3387A..
a PF52 is the longer filter that was used on 4.3 S10's and LT1 powered Corevettes, Camaros, and Caprices in the 90's. the Fram interchange is 3980.

either way, they are cheap junk that have no place on anything you care about and use for anything but boring daily driver duty. use the Wix/NAPA Gold 1036, which crosses over to the bigger PF52 filter. the "biggie oil filter adapter" adapts the threads to use a filter with a larger body on it that was used on Buick V8 engines in the 70's. i think it's the NAPA 1258/Wix 51258 or Delco PF24 and Fram PH25..
 
coach said:
No it will not fix it. It's the plastic check valve and internals. Go with a Wix. It has all metal internals. FRAM use to be the best, but the China make over years ago fixed that.
Wix is the best.
Click to expand...

coach,
Could you please explain this? The check valve inside the oil filter?

Thank you for any help,
Paul Lohr
 
They started making most of the internals out of plastic years ago. The check valve being one of them. Reg daily drivers...it's fine. 80psi race engines...different story. Wix filters still use all metal internals. Maybe 1-2 others.
Most all filters are made by the same factory, just labeled different. It's a huge scam to consumers.
 
RZ,
Were you driving before the engine has warmed up?
If that 80psi was at a cold idle, I'd wonder why you need that much psi. [Especially, w 5-20]
What does the psi show at hot idle?
Maybe reduce the relief psi, and use a 10-30? Might reduce the pump drive loads, and future filter problems???

I like Huff's billet filter!:cool:
 
I always drive it before it is warmed up, but I never get on it until my O/P gets to 20# hot at idle.
I get about 40#s cruise hot at 2,000 rpm.
I get 80#s cold and it usually comes down within 10/15 miles of driving.

Next oil change I may try 10-30 although by then it will be 100* daily here in the summer and I might just stick with the 5-20 until next winter.
 
robzombie said:
I always drive it before it is warmed up, but I never get on it until my O/P gets to 20# hot at idle.
I get about 40#s cruise hot at 2,000 rpm.
I get 80#s cold and it usually comes down within 10/15 miles of driving.

Next oil change I may try 10-30 although by then it will be 100* daily here in the summer and I might just stick with the 5-20 until next winter.
Click to expand...
I have same oil pressure as you. 75-80 cold and 30# hot idle. 45-50 while cruising. I also like the Wix filters or AC delco and run either 15W-40 or 10w-30. Being in the NE, i use 5W-30 in winter so I can start it up so it changes what springs are under pressure. Thankfully nothing bad happened to your engine
 
I heard this before. If I remember correctly the oil pump bypass valve had been modded so not to open.

If the oil can't bypass (specially cold start) and the filter can't flow it will crush internally.

1. Check your oil pump bypass valve. Make sure it's working.

2. Like mentioned, run a good quality filter. ;)

Rick
 
I'll check the bypass and I'm putting a wix on there ASAP.

Back in the day Delco products was the best best way to go on a GM, my I guess how times have changed, almost everything out there cost double and you get less than half of what you pay for.
 
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