No Start Condition.

[motorhead]

Essentially it was supposed to start last night… but, like all things in this hobby, nothing goes as planned.

We have fuel: verified at the rail.
We now have good fuel: drained tank and added Ultra 94
We have spark: coil packs were swapped and spark @ plug was verified.
All sensor connections are present.

We had an issue with the cam sensor being 180* out… it cranks better now for some reason. How true to the driver’s side of the car does the cam sensor window have to be? Mine is slightly angled toward/favouring the front of the car when installed.

When installing and setting the cam sensor the 1.5” (or 1.45”) marker is the 25* ATDC and the “tape” should extend to the left of the TDC mark when facing the front of the engine, correct? The instructions on GNTTYPE.org do not instruct you to do anything with the crank position when setting the cam sensor. So, we rotated the engine to the edge of the “tape” AFTER installing the sensor housing. The cap is reinstalled and tested for the 7.5v -> 0v setting test. Is this the correct procedure for setting the cam senor, or am I going to have to do it all over again?

Essentially, what the car is doing is the typical Turbo Buick hard start (one or two full rotations of the engine before engagement) and then there is a very heavy electrical load/draw that causes the lights to dim heavily the dash gauges to shoot up and flicker… and then the car just lugs and dies as the “load” becomes too great for the starter.

Any thoughts or directions are very appreciated.

Thanks,

 

[Kevin Turch]

I had a similiar problem, turned out to be the crank sensor, car just died, got spark, fuel, etc...took a while but thats what it turned out to be.

Another thing i would get if u dont already have, is that cam sensor tool, best 30 bucks u can spend, makes adjusting it a snap

 

[timothydog]

I was going to suggest bad crank sensor as well.
My dad drove my car all the way from Delaware with a bad crank sensor.

 

[motorhead]

Okay, there could be an issue with the crank sensor settings... but the sensor itself is B/N from GM.

With the crank sensor... which "groove" is the harmonic balancer supposed to pass thru? The 1st one, or the second one (fully sheilded)?

Thanks...

PS. I'll have to look into that cam sensor tool

 

[motorhead]

To add insult to injury... and likely a blessing in disguise:

We gots NO oil pressure!

Somebody thought he could prime the system by solely cranking the engine (read: me)

We are going to have to back feed the system through the old & broken oil cooler. Not soooo bad. Glad it wasn't a dry start up!

And the TPS was set at 4.0+v @ idle.

And it seems that the oil is soaked in gas.

And the cam sensor is physically in place correctly, however the sensor has been set 50* out! This might explain why it won't run either!

Arrrrrrrgh!

 

[Steve Wood]

Change the oil and get everything right before you keep cranking on it. Keep your fingers crossed that the cam is not being chewed up.

 

[motorhead]

Originally posted by Steve Wood
Change the oil and get everything right before you keep cranking on it. Keep your fingers crossed that the cam is not being chewed up.

Yeah, I have my best guys on it now… I just wish they’d pick up the phone!

I am not too worried about the factory cam that has 80,000 miles on it with the new CC980 springs

Let’s hope for the best.

 

[GNVAIR]

Pull the bolts off the oil filter adapter and pack the cavity with Vaseline and then try priming it.

 

[motorhead]

Originally posted by GNVAIR
Pull the bolts off the oil filter adapter and pack the cavity with Vaseline and then try priming it.

This is plan numero 2 if the back feed thing doesn't happen...

I'll only know after they answer the phone!

(at least it means they are working )