No O2 correction ????????
- Thread starter nightdiver
- Start date
The findings are that wit the 02 in the dp about 8" from the turbo the exhaust temps are about 350-400 cooler than the factory o2 location. At cruise i am getting about 600 degrees there so i dont think its a heat issue, for the sensor going dead intermittent. Drove the car 15 minutes no problems tonight. If your racing and the o2 goes goofy i am going to set the max o2 correction over 17 psi to maybe -6% only and even less at higher boost, only way to save the motor in case of a screw up
Norbs,
I just ran a data log but tonight but my O2 correction was basically dead from the beginning... I pulled all of my wires and and checked them with an Ohm meter and could not find any shorts or bad connections. I pulled my ECU and O2 sensor and am sending them back to FAST. At this point I just don't trust it as is... I was taking a good look at my O2 sensor tonight and it does have a slight dent in the outer cover (that part that covers the heating element). I remember it coming that way from FAST. I knew the WB O2 sensor was very fragile and VERY expensive so I've always treated it like gold. This could get nasty....!!!
I just ran a data log but tonight but my O2 correction was basically dead from the beginning... I pulled all of my wires and and checked them with an Ohm meter and could not find any shorts or bad connections. I pulled my ECU and O2 sensor and am sending them back to FAST. At this point I just don't trust it as is... I was taking a good look at my O2 sensor tonight and it does have a slight dent in the outer cover (that part that covers the heating element). I remember it coming that way from FAST. I knew the WB O2 sensor was very fragile and VERY expensive so I've always treated it like gold. This could get nasty....!!!
nightdiver
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2002
dashboard
Got a few Qs
What are :
delta map
delta tps
atm corr(%)
grs corr(%)
op mode
code
diag A
diag B
I know what all the rest are. There is no comment about these in the help section
Thanks
Got a few Qs
What are :
delta map
delta tps
atm corr(%)
grs corr(%)
op mode
code
diag A
diag B
I know what all the rest are. There is no comment about these in the help section
Thanks
Re: dashboard
I can help you on a few of them, maybe Norbs knows the rest.
diag A & B are for diagnostic/security purposes according to FAST.
atm corr% is the amount of fuel addedsubtracted given the air temp.
code it is usually 132
grs corr% is the amount of correction of all "adders" such as battery correction, ats, coolant, afterstart, etc. Basically the total of any non-VE table adjustment related to fuel.
I don't know about the delta stuff.
I can help you on a few of them, maybe Norbs knows the rest.
diag A & B are for diagnostic/security purposes according to FAST.
atm corr% is the amount of fuel addedsubtracted given the air temp.
code it is usually 132
grs corr% is the amount of correction of all "adders" such as battery correction, ats, coolant, afterstart, etc. Basically the total of any non-VE table adjustment related to fuel.
I don't know about the delta stuff.
I don't know the rest of the sensors either, i should have worked for fast maybe. Anyway i have designed a "shielded" WB o2 harness, hopefully this will put an end to the weird dead sensor output. Drove it today was fine so far. But i suggest you keep the sensor wiring away from sparkplug cables and sources of high current, due to induced voltages.
Alright guys,
I got my ECU back from FAST and they said nothing was wrong with it. Right after I sent the box back to FAST I noticed that my POS battery cable was not fully tightened. I also fixed what I thought at least were very minor exhaust leaks. Low and behold the O2 sensor works like a champ.. BUT!!!!!!!!!!! I was still having black smoke pouring from the exhaust everytime I would blip the throttle.. It didn't matter if I put the ECU in Open or Closed status. I was analyzing my last data log of the evening and saw that everytime I blipped the throttle the A/F would go VERY rich... The light finally went on... I simply changed the AE MAP decay from 96 to 128 and the smoke was magically gone... Now, it's time to do some serious on the road tuning!!!!!
Might not be a bad time to check your cables!!!!
Tony
I got my ECU back from FAST and they said nothing was wrong with it. Right after I sent the box back to FAST I noticed that my POS battery cable was not fully tightened. I also fixed what I thought at least were very minor exhaust leaks. Low and behold the O2 sensor works like a champ.. BUT!!!!!!!!!!! I was still having black smoke pouring from the exhaust everytime I would blip the throttle.. It didn't matter if I put the ECU in Open or Closed status. I was analyzing my last data log of the evening and saw that everytime I blipped the throttle the A/F would go VERY rich... The light finally went on... I simply changed the AE MAP decay from 96 to 128 and the smoke was magically gone... Now, it's time to do some serious on the road tuning!!!!!
Might not be a bad time to check your cables!!!!
Tony
Yep, that's just the thing.. it's just darn near impossible to diagnose these things unless you are there. I took m car around the block last night for the very first time. I still have some tuning to do but I am sneaking up on it slowly... Thanks again Norbs for all you help!
Tony
Tony
nightdiver
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2002
How many sensors do you monitor usually ?
I noticed from the first week( 5 years ago) that when i monitor all 14 sensors there is a delay........could this be the problem and make the ecm stuck like the pcs do some times ?
I noticed from the first week( 5 years ago) that when i monitor all 14 sensors there is a delay........could this be the problem and make the ecm stuck like the pcs do some times ?
nightdiver
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2002
Its getting worse
I dont trust the ecm to do the job.
I got afr readings but no correction again .As a matter of fact i logged it once.
O2 correction was 0% and it started doing the correction after i let it off...engine hot 195* and intake temp was 75*
The lamda symbol is right there all the time and afr between shifts went up to 13.94 with 23+ psi and 26* of advance
Ok that sounds scary but i run a LOT of pure meth (Julio inside) with two 15 injectors. Thats why my engine is still in one piece
Do i need a new WB sensor ? Ive got readings but no correction
I dont trust the ecm to do the job.
I got afr readings but no correction again .As a matter of fact i logged it once.
O2 correction was 0% and it started doing the correction after i let it off...engine hot 195* and intake temp was 75*
The lamda symbol is right there all the time and afr between shifts went up to 13.94 with 23+ psi and 26* of advance
Ok that sounds scary but i run a LOT of pure meth (Julio inside) with two 15 injectors. Thats why my engine is still in one piece
Do i need a new WB sensor ? Ive got readings but no correction
Is there a way you can disable the correction once the maps have been done?
I did a couple dyno pulls yesterday, my first was lean at over 13:1 AFR. The second was 12.0 and the HP picked up 8 rwhp and the EGT's dropped from 1620 down to 1475.
Made 512 RWHP at 24 PSI peak boost.
That alcohol covers up a lot of mistakes..
Julio
I did a couple dyno pulls yesterday, my first was lean at over 13:1 AFR. The second was 12.0 and the HP picked up 8 rwhp and the EGT's dropped from 1620 down to 1475.
Made 512 RWHP at 24 PSI peak boost.
That alcohol covers up a lot of mistakes..
Julio
nightdiver
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2002
Tell me about it.
It stucked at -25 % last week and i had to pull over(backfire) and turn it off . I started 2 secs later and it worked like new
I think i might go dfi Gen 7 some time later
Thats just wrong. It has to be something simple..connector, ground, etc.. when electronics go bad its always constant. Intermittants are almost always due to bad connections.
If its a heat/thermal issue.. that should be replicable pretty easy as well. Maybe its EMI/RFI type noise getting into the wires?
I base my opinion on having worked on consumer electronics for the past 21 years, and 150,000 products personally repaired.
HTH
Julio
If its a heat/thermal issue.. that should be replicable pretty easy as well. Maybe its EMI/RFI type noise getting into the wires?
I base my opinion on having worked on consumer electronics for the past 21 years, and 150,000 products personally repaired.
HTH
Julio