New owner needs help

Pearl91chevy

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2015
Hey guys ,
I'm Jesse and new to the gn/Buick world. I currently own 2 gmc typhoons, one being white/white with a mild build and the other is a teal/grey all stock original.. Finally got me a 85 turbo buick tonight from a original owner 111k miles. Super super clean car but it won't start which helped me getting the car for a better price. Here's the issue. Key on I get all dash lights. Goto crank and nothing, I don't even get a fuel pump prime. We tried the lead on drivers side to hot wire fuel pump and nothing still. I'm hoping I can find a new relay tomorow for the pump but still having the crank issue. The battery is fully charged, I've checked all fuses 3 times now under dash, also check fuses near starter and all is fine. Any suggestions? I really don't want to start throwing money at parts without actually knowing what's wrong and being new to these I know it can add up quick. Thanks guys!
 
Well, here is a good place to start...
Post #1 has a No Start list to work thru to help you find your problem...

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/basic-hotair-info.33080/

NO-START TEST
Below is a series of tests to troubleshoot a 'no-start' condition. (I basically reprinted this from a GM troubleshooting flowchart, hopefully it will be of some help!)

Below are links to repair manual pictures to reference from:

ECM Plug
Sensor Plugs

You'll need to get at the ECM and the cam & crank sensors to do some voltage tests. If you have a NEEDLE type voltmeter, it may work better for these tests, as it will visibly "swing" when the sensor switches open & close (IF they're working okay!)

Here goes:

First, test your meter and ground! (see ECM Plug) Check connection A-6, "ign, ECM fuse" for 12 volts. (for ALL tests, BE SURE the negative lead of the voltmeter is connected to a GOOD GROUND!)

#1- (see ECM Plug) With the key off, disconnect the ECM A-B connector. With the positive lead of the voltmeter, probe the B-5 connection (highlighted yellow, this is the crank sensor signal) Crank the engine and watch the meter...you should have varying voltage from 1 to 7 volts.
If NOT okay, proceed to #2.
If you ARE seeing correct voltage, your cam & crank sensors are okay, and your coil and/or ignition module may be the problem! You need to loosen the coilpack, and check the BLUE wire for 12 volts, key on. If it DOES have 12 volts, then the problem is likely the ignition module.

#2- now probe the A-11 connection... (highlighted green, this is the cam sensor signal). Crank the engine...you should have varying voltage from 1 to 9 volts.
If it IS okay, THE CAM SENSOR IS FINE, AND YOU ONLY NEED TO TEST THE CRANK SENSOR IN ALL FURTHER TESTS!
If it's NOT okay, there's no cam sensor signal!

Plug the ECM connector back in, and head for the sensors!

#3 (see "Sensor Plug") Unplug the cam sensor plug. Turn the key "ON" ...On the MODULE SIDE of the plug, probe the "A" wire for voltage, after which probe the "B" wire for voltage. You should have between 5 and 11 volts on BOTH wires.
If you ARE seeing correct voltage, THEN: with the negative lead of the voltmeter, probe the "C" wire, and with the positive lead probe the "A" wire. You should have between 5 and 11 volts. Note the results, then REPEAT THIS TEST WITH THE CRANK SENSOR PLUG!

If ANY of the sensor plug tests FAILED, you have a probably ignition module problem...
If ALL the sensor plug tests PASSED, then PLUG IN the sensor plugs, and proceed:

#4. Test the cam sensor: Probe the "B" wire of the cam sensor, then crank the engine and watch the meter. You SHOULD have varying voltage between 1/2 and 9 volts. REPEAT THIS TEST WITH THE CRANK SENSOR!

If either sensor fails this test, then it's possible that sensor is bad! If they PASS this test, it's likely the ignition module, or the connections TO the ignition module are bad)

Hope this makes sense!

:)
 
How long has the car sat? Let me get this right you have spark but no fuel correct?
The car doesn't even crAnk over. We verified the motor isnt locked up though. I can turn the key on, I get all lights on inside and dash, radio turns on, windows work, blower motor works, just no fuel pump prime, no crank... I don't hear anything either when I do crank key. I've put two different battery's in to make sure that's not the problem. We have power at alternator and power at starter, haven't been able to check signal yet at starter though when key crank
 
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Sounds like a broken ignition switch hook up a different one to the harness and see if it helps use a screw driver to test the switch before doing all the work of installing it
 
Sounds like a broken ignition switch hook up a different one to the harness and see if it helps use a screw driver to test the switch before doing all the work of installing it
I have a new switch on order
I'll
Be picking it up here in a few hours along with a fuel relay
 
Could I also be having an problem because of the theft deterrent system? Could it be activated or something causing no crank/fuel pump?
 
Small update, put new relay in, now have the relay doing the 2sec prime but haven't heard tank come on yet so Tracing those wires.
I'm by myself right now so I can do the test at harness at tank and turn key on at same time
 
Big update making progress... Starter signal wire had power at crank so I pulled the starter got it tested and sure enough locked solid! So bought a new one installed it and we got motor cranking!

Nowww for the fuel. I got the relay in like previously mentioned, key on and got 2sec prime right off the relay. Since motor is cranking I checked and power outta relay stays on while cranking after the breif delay for oil pressure to build. But, when I goto back to where the fuel pump is, there is nothing outta the harness. I've also tried a positive wire to the test wire for pump and nothing. So is there a fuse between the relay to pump?
Or do I have a busted wire along the way to pump?
 
Are you sure the fuel pump is good I had a similar issue. I replaced the fuel pump cleaned the tank and it fired right up ( after priming the fuel rail). I replaced the fuel filter too.
 
Are you sure the fuel pump is good I had a similar issue. I replaced the fuel pump cleaned the tank and it fired right up ( after priming the fuel rail). I replaced the fuel filter too.

I hot wired a battery to the pump last night to see what would happen and the pump did turn on. I plan on running a wire straight from the relay to positive wire at tank connector and see what's happens.
 
Well I got a new fuel pump in... After a lot of cranking she came to life! Ran rough for a bit then smoothed out, drove her to the gas station and filled her up on 93. Time to clean her up and start modding
 
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