New Best More Water and Less Alky (93 Octane)

"Only" 30 more HP? Maybe I'm further away than I thought. Me thinks my horsies are getting harder to come across these days:(
Nah, it's all relative, depending on where you are at.
If you run 15's like me, 30 HP is "cheap". :cool:

........... Jerryl may be able to give you information on the MAF readings............

I know it is >255 for sure! ;)
 
The MAF reading on the SD chip is the calculated airflow based on all the inputs. Note that in Powerlogger, you need to set the MAF display option to 768gr/sec for display purposes (even though the SD chip is not limited to 768gr/sec).

Whenever I ran water in the mix, I could never get away from the misfiring like you're seeing. But it was darn near impossible to make it knock with water in there. It may need higher pressure/better atomization. I eventually went back to straight alky since it was easier to tune.

I think you could get some more power out of it if you could work the timing up into the 26* area without knock.
 
Thanks for the input Eric M. I didn't know to set the MAF display to that setting. Pat (Slogn) and I were talking about my temp drops and we're theorizing that Hotair setups may benefit more from water than IC cars based on our higher intake temps.

I'm going to be working on the timing for sure. It does seem like more of a challenge to tune a alky and water mix, but I think time taken tuning will pay back very nicely. I'll probably be getting a smaller primary nozzle and putting it on just for the benefits of better atomization.

Eric M., one thought I was having about the SD chip was that it'd be really nice to adjust overall timing in all gears (regardless of WOT).
 
Anybody thought of water pre-turbo and alchy post-turbo. That way you don't ingest alchy directly into the turbo. You also have the ability to fine tune the setup for streetability.
 
Eric: Been reading your progress reports, while they are impressive I have to ask:

I get the theory of lowering the charge temp and increasing the density, etc etc, but since water and fuel don't mix, and water is non-combustible, what happens to the water when injected into the engine and wouldn't it possibly gum the injectors?
 
Hi Kevin,

I'm not injecting water through the fuel injectors, the water/alky mix is injected into the air flow. A little pre-turbo and a lot post turbo. The only time fuel and water will meet is in the air going into the heads.
 
You can call me chicken stuff on this one:redface: I'm kind of nerivous about manually shifting while going down the track
Actually hand shifting is very easy on our cars if you get used to it. Takes a couple passes and a shift light really helps this way you know you're hitting the rpm you want when you shift. I actually shift around 5800-5900 on my passes.
 
Eric: Been reading your progress reports, while they are impressive I have to ask:

I get the theory of lowering the charge temp and increasing the density, etc etc, but since water and fuel don't mix, and water is non-combustible, what happens to the water when injected into the engine and wouldn't it possibly gum the injectors?

They have been using water-injection for a long time now. They only started using meth lately. The water absorbs the latent heat. and on a small scale raises compression. The P-51 Mustang had water-injection on its engine and made over 1600 hp in an airplane.
 
I'm going to have to look at that log when I get home. 22 PSI and 81 MPH at launch is pretty darn unbelievable:eek:
........
Eric,
Did you verify this in the log?
Just want to make sure I know how to read logs. :eek:


........ I actually shift around 5800-5900 on my passes.

What cam are you runnning, still 206/206?
 
Eric,
Did you verify this in the log?
Just want to make sure I know how to read logs. :eek:

Hi Jerryl, I forgot to check that log but I'll try to remember to check it tonight.

Jamie, I guess I could give it a shot next time I'm at the track. How do you determine the best shift point? I've also had thoughts of trying a combo of foot and E Brake launch to see if I could 60' better.
 
Hi Jerryl, I forgot to check that log but I'll try to remember to check it tonight.

Jamie, I guess I could give it a shot next time I'm at the track. How do you determine the best shift point? I've also had thoughts of trying a combo of foot and E Brake launch to see if I could 60' better.

what cam are you running? also i would try some ebrake lauches to see if you could get better 60 foots.
 
i wouldnt rev it out like jamie or i do. i dont run the stock cam neither does she. where is it shifting now?
 
i wouldnt rev it out like jamie or i do. i dont run the stock cam neither does she. where is it shifting now?

Hi Brent, the shifts are in the 4800 to 4900 RPM range.

Jerryl, I took a look at the MPH on those logs and the moment the car starts moving from 0 MPH and starts going up the boost is around 22 lbs like you said, but you can almost see where I hit the throttle and that's where I'm launching. Why the car is still showing 0 MPH is really beyond me. In the first log it's almost 1 second before the MPH goes up. My 60' foot was 1.653 so I couldn't have spun for one second:confused:

From the first log (my best), here's the details from my slip.

R/T .649
60' 1.653
330' 4.940
1/8 7.768
MPH 87.09
 
eric, you could bring them up to about 5100-5200 and that should help some. you can play around with it and see what your car likes.

also i see you are talking about your logs and showing 0mph. think about how your speedo works. i can see it taking a sec for the computer to show actual movement
 
Just because you show a 1.65 sixty foot doesn't mean there wasn't some tire spin, I can really see this on my readings when the track isn't working.

I run a 212/206 in the motor in the car right now. It's done great to this point, I do have my 206/206 but that is going into the other motor that will be going back together in a month or so hopefull this time to make it into hubby's T.
 
+1 i can also see it as well. im running alittle larger cam then jamies.
 
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