My alignment doesn't look to good....

Rafs-T-Type

Not so Senior Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
I took my car in for an alignment and I gave them Scot W's specs which are:

Camber: - .75 ( + or - .2 )

Caster: + 7.0 ( + or - .5 )

Toe In: 1/16 ( + or - 1/16 )

The results are...

They do toe in degrees. Does a positive toe degree indicate toe out?
 

Attachments

  • alignment.pdf
    28.7 KB · Views: 154
The jist of it is

left camber .1 caster 5.9 toe .22 degrees
right camber 0.0 caster 6.0 toe .23
 
.22 degrees is still toe in though...right? I researched a little and it seems positive toe degrees is toe in. Correct me if I'm wrong. How bad would you say the alignment is as a whole?
 
It depends on how the machine is set up. Most machines are set up so positive toe will show up like your readings so it's most likely positive. What you need to do is take a tape measure and mark identical locations on the front tires. Use the tape to see if you've got positive or negative toe. It should be no more than .20 negative but the same as positive will work as well.;) The sticky in this section about brake and suspension work has a few links in it that might help you. Look at the last couple of pages about the G body alignment specs and I put a couple of vids on how to do a DIY alignment.;)
 
not bad at all. however to be with in your spec. you will need more negative camber -.50 and more positive caster of 1.0 . yes toe at+.22 is toe in. did they run out of adjustment?
 
They just said they did they best they can. They didn't say anything about running out of adjustment.
 
if you have shims add about a 1/8 to 3/16 to rear shim pack, this may get you right on. it is real close. if you have other adjusters , the rear of the control arms both sides would need to be bumped in a little .
 
fyi--based on your print out.
actual camber is .1 and 0. to achieve -.75 the actual needs to be -.55 to -.95 = [-.75 +or - .20]
actual caster is 5.9 and 6.0 to achieve 7.0 the actual needs to be +6.5 to 7.5 = [ 7.0 + or - .50]
 
I took my car in for an alignment and I gave them Scot W's specs which are:

Camber: - .75 ( + or - .2 )

Caster: + 7.0 ( + or - .5 )

Toe In: 1/16 ( + or - 1/16 )

The results are...

They do toe in degrees. Does a positive toe degree indicate toe out?
When a place says "That's the best we can do without giving you an explanation" It's time to take it somewhere else.... Many places don't like to put your car at Negative camber cause they think all it will do is wear down tires....Not True, cause I have had mine at (- 1.5 deg negative camber) for at least 3 yrs now and I am still running the same front tires with minimal wear...

Try to get a place to get as close to those alignment specs as possible because those are actually from DSE and it will make a big difference in how the car handles..

PS: Not every car will be the same or be able to reach that exact spec but the closer the better..
 
When a place says "That's the best we can do without giving you an explanation" It's time to take it somewhere else.... Many places don't like to put your car at Negative camber cause they think all it will do is wear down tires....Not True, cause I have had mine at (- 1.5 deg negative camber) for at least 3 yrs now and I am still running the same front tires with minimal wear...

Try to get a place to get as close to those alignment specs as possible because those are actually from DSE and it will make a big difference in how the car handles..

PS: Not every car will be the same or be able to reach that exact spec but the closer the better..

How about ridetech? Do they have alignment suggestions?

I have a lifetime alignment from firestone, so that's where I went. I noticed my car was nice and warmed up when i picked it up too :rolleyes:. I called a different firestone and explained my problem to them and they said they would fix it up for me.
 
Just got off the phone with Ridetech. They suggest 1/8 to 1/16 toe in, 4 to 5 degrees pos caster, and 1/2 - 1 degree neg camber. That sound good?

It's coincidentally close to what my car ended up at. o_O
 
How about ridetech? Do they have alignment suggestions?

I have a lifetime alignment from firestone, so that's where I went. I noticed my car was nice and warmed up when i picked it up too :rolleyes:. I called a different firestone and explained my problem to them and they said they would fix it up for me.
Yes, Here is what they recommend:

Camber: ( -.5 to -1.5 ) [within .3 from side to side]
Caster: ( 4 - 7 degrees positive )
Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" Toe in

This is on the second page of the Tru-Turn instructions that show the tie rod and adjusting sleeve on the front page..
 
Remember that you want a slight difference (.25-.50) in caster if camber is about the same. The lower caster should be on the drivers side. This will help deal with the road crown and keep the car from going to one side.;)
 
I just got my car back from setting it up close to the above alignment specs. We could only get 3.5 degrees of caster out of it. It def drives like a new car though with the new upper tubular arms and all new body bushings. I put on a new steering shaft too. I have a small amount of play where the new shaft meets the old column that I need to look at, but other than that the car drives better than it ever has since I owned it. I'm still breaking in the tires, but I pushed a few corners today and it steers and corners better than ever! Thanks everyone for the help.
 
Hey Charlie, if you're watching what are your feelings on +.3 camber?

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
I just got my car back from setting it up close to the above alignment specs. We could only get 3.5 degrees of caster out of it. It def drives like a new car though with the new upper tubular arms and all new body bushings. I put on a new steering shaft too. I have a small amount of play where the new shaft meets the old column that I need to look at, but other than that the car drives better than it ever has since I owned it. I'm still breaking in the tires, but I pushed a few corners today and it steers and corners better than ever! Thanks everyone for the help.

Let me know what gets rid of your steering play. I have replaced everything and still have tons of play :mad:.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Let me know what gets rid of your steering play. I have replaced everything and still have tons of play :mad:.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

I'll let you know. My Kirban shaft isn't engaging the stock column properly. Me and a guy with great finesse are tackling it the week of the 16th. Right now it was better with the stock shaft!

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Last edited:
Hey Charlie, if you're watching what are your feelings on +.3 camber?
While Scott's car is set up a little differently, the closer you get to 0 degrees camber the better. I prefer between +.1 and -.1 for settings since it will give the least issues with wear overall. One of the interesting things about increasing caster is, when you make a curve, the tires will be running more on the sides so you can develop wear issues that look like you've got a camber issue. That's why, as a rule, I prefer caster no higher than 3.5 degrees for regular street cars. If it's a track car the higher caster will aid in keeping it straight or coming out of a corner.
 
While Scott's car is set up a little differently, the closer you get to 0 degrees camber the better. I prefer between +.1 and -.1 for settings since it will give the least issues with wear overall. One of the interesting things about increasing caster is, when you make a curve, the tires will be running more on the sides so you can develop wear issues that look like you've got a camber issue. That's why, as a rule, I prefer caster no higher than 3.5 degrees for regular street cars. If it's a track car the higher caster will aid in keeping it straight or coming out of a corner.

So...uh....what's .3+ camber going to do? Is it rideable? Will it be disaterous?
 
Top