Love/Hate

BlackBettie6

boost addict
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
here is some of my "datastream" so to say

Setting -Feb, 22,2008. temp is 30F. Its snowing:smile: and i just drove highway 7,8,9 miles.

Symptoms- too many. the major ones are; car will stall opon medium- sharp acceleration. it feels like (ALL the time) when i drive the car that there is somthin squezing or clamping the front crank pulley,on..off..on....off.on..off , and so on. Front and rear Main Seal leak. the batterey has a Draw. Theres 2 kill switches hanging in a "rats nest" under the dash (current project). Vehical Shifts Extreamly violent..:p . BL says that its *Taking away Fuel* at Idle, But as i hit the gas its *correcting for a rich Condition* all into upper Rpm.

ScanMaster Says!

o2-low of 140-high of 703
MAF-5 and 6
L8-36 to 39
bat-13.7 (at batt its 14.2)
INT- low of 123 high of 133
Bl-109, (I hate you)
clt- 190 (max ever was 193)
ATS- 85 (Any Method of Testing this?)
Rpm- 750-900 (about 1100 on a cold start for 20 seconds or so once calm, but still in closed loop and fixed at 128, car runs pretty decent)
TPS-.42 (.40 key off)
IAC-30 (150 key off)

Questions- Why is there a 12 pin connector behid my glovebox with no male connector around? Am i Overdiagnosing for a blown trans? (weatherstriping leaks) is slight moisture in the cockpit screwing with electrical components? Is oil from the front crank seal inturupting Crank position sensor signal? Is there a site where i can get info on testing all the sensors? im using a MAF Translator with a 3 inch lt1 MAF, Can i test or Clean the TRANSLATOR?

any kinda feedback or opinions/suggestions at all will help me out, if you can think straight :confused:
 
If something is squeezing that "front crank pulley on and off" I would wait till it gets out from under your hood to work on it because its probably one bad mother.:eek: ;)
 
here is some of my "datastream" so to say

Setting -Feb, 22,2008. temp is 30F. Its snowing:smile: and i just drove highway 7,8,9 miles.

Symptoms- too many. the major ones are; car will stall opon medium- sharp acceleration. it feels like (ALL the time) when i drive the car that there is somthin squezing or clamping the front crank pulley,on..off..on....off.on..off , and so on. Front and rear Main Seal leak. the batterey has a Draw. Theres 2 kill switches hanging in a "rats nest" under the dash (current project). Vehical Shifts Extreamly violent..:p . BL says that its *Taking away Fuel* at Idle, But as i hit the gas its *correcting for a rich Condition* all into upper Rpm.

ScanMaster Says!

o2-low of 140-high of 703
MAF-5 and 6
L8-36 to 39
bat-13.7 (at batt its 14.2)
INT- low of 123 high of 133
Bl-109, (I hate you)
clt- 190 (max ever was 193)
ATS- 85 (Any Method of Testing this?)
Rpm- 750-900 (about 1100 on a cold start for 20 seconds or so once calm, but still in closed loop and fixed at 128, car runs pretty decent)
TPS-.42 (.40 key off)
IAC-30 (150 key off)

Questions- What The Fcuk? Why is there a 12 pin connector behid my glovebox with no male connector around? Am i Overdiagnosing for a blown trans? (weatherstriping leaks) is slight moisture in the cockpit screwing with electrical components? Is oil from the front crank seal inturupting Crank position sensor signal? Is there a site where i can get info on testing all the sensors? im using a MAF Translator with a 3 inch lt1 MAF, Can i test or Clean the TRANSLATOR?

any kinda feedback or opinions/suggestions at all will help me out, if you can think straight :confused:

wow, sounds like u have some work to do! when u say the car stalls, does it bog down and pick up or just completely shut off? could the on, off be the car upshifting and down shifting very rapidly? im asking that because a mis adjusted or sticking trans. detent cable could cause some harsh shifts and strange shifting. to adjust cable, move the plunger all the way back towards the firewall then go into the car, move the floor mat, and gradually floor the car and it should adjust itself.

maybe the 12 pin connector is ur ALDL but its been relocated? just a guess because its been a while since ive looked behind my glovebox. just a few thoughts, hth!
 
HAHA, hey man thats the best analogy i could come up with lol. erratic idle, bad idle misfire pop tick wam slam, are all too general......and sounds like old batman.
 
its 12 wide, its strange. theres bat voltage comin outa 2 of the ports though so its active whatever it is!
 
its 12 wide, its strange. theres bat voltage comin outa 2 of the ports though so its active whatever it is!

huh, if i wasnt 700 miles away from my car right now at school id pop my door down and take a look! does everything in the car work, accessory wise, or has some stuff been removed?
 
nothing has been removed...without being replaced.
i`m in the process of making a list of added/replaced parts *frankenstien*

only accessory oddity is that the STOCK radio has NO memory and it will not work unless its running, just white noise.....hmm

i wish i had the stock parts, any idea where to get stock MAF and Plumbing?
 
BlackBettie6, where are you located? Sounds like a bit of work might be ahead of you :( . Can you take and post pictures of the connector in question? My interior is out and most of the wiring is exposed under the dash. I can look at it in the morning and I will be on-line late morning / early afternoon and might be able to help out. Right now I'm drinking beer and playing darts with my girlfriend, Ani Dammit!:biggrin:
 
yeah hrhoward i can and will do that ASAP, kinda have to wait for a camera, but most likely by sometime tomarrow...it almost looks like you could hook up a computer of some sort to it.. beer is a good thing haha
 
only accessory oddity is that the STOCK radio has NO memory and it will not work unless its running, just white noise.....hmm

That's easy. The radio doesn't have a constant hot like it should. It's forgetting all the stations and going back to the defaults every time you give it power by turning on the key.

That makes me wonder what other electrical problems you may have. For example, does your ECM have a constant hot? Or is it, too, forgetting everything every time you shut the car off?

Jim
 
power windows ,power door locks,blower motor.... few things.
im heading out there now to check that out! thanks turbojimmy
 
turbojimmy, i think your right as far as my car(ecm) not having a constant hot, i think its due to a short or a ground. will moisture do this? a good amount of the connectors and clips i disconect for testing have like green fur or rust, does that mean moisture or a short?

howard, i`m still waiting on a camera, but thnx for the diagram, i couldnt find that when i was on the site, then again im slightly challenged with computers.
 
Moisture will cause the green fuzz. If it is real bad you might want to consider contacting someone like Casper's. They have all the stuff needed to replace the connectors. Yes, it is a bit of work but the time invested would be worth it if the connectors are corroded. Otherwise you will be chasing down gremlins forever!!!:mad:
 
i just cleans some green fur and rust out of the INSIDE of the MAF translator, on the side coming from the sensor itself.

A/c relay makes an odd noise (key on) and i noticed the conector was heat deformed+black..... fan delay relay (key on) also noise but not deformed.

Apon shuting the key to off; fan ALWAYS comes on hot/cold/rain/....fire haha nahh.... is this my car forgeting due to not having a constant hot?
 
Oh, as far as the unused 12 pin connector behind your glove box, to you have Twilight Sentinal? If not, I bet that is the connector for it.
 
no twilight senetel, still no info on mystery connector,damn, have i opened a can of worms!

green fur turned into;

Testing all data sensors, vacuum test (14-16"?), Accufab cleaning due to fuel in the vac line, Cleaning ALL elec. connectors, basicaly took 85% of the wiring harness apart to find more splices and hacks that ive ever seen, but i`ve got most of this rats nest under control...but its pretty funny to see the look on people's faces when they see my interior :biggrin:

Anyway, this is what i know via internet, manymanymany HRS :confused: , has been "Played" with..:mad:

MAFT, turbonetics TE-60 hairdryer & plumbing, Green striped injectors, 8" k&n, 3" Lt1 MAF sensor, Vdo boost gauge, stall converter,trans cooler, Accufab FPR and Gauge,"shift kit", Hotwired dual Fuel Pump in which i am about to investigate and rewire to rule things out.

NEW questions and Data :rolleyes:

Code 45 (Intermitent) Rich 02, although plugs indicate lean :cool: wonderful, and why do i have a pink tourqe converter ? haha anyone know Brand/Stall?

O2 MV- since i put the scanmaster in the car (dec) 02mv have always jumped around, made sence, its working......Right? lol

02 milivolts are low of DOUBLE DIDGET 60's jumping up to 880 Never steady...ever. :redface: , so from what i gather, somthing is REALY wrong..
thats realy rich and realy lean FYI hahaha... oh boy.

i went to school for auto mech, so i have access to a computer program called ALLDATA.. so i`m finishing up there sugested tests. thats how i found the fuel in vac line

*fuel in vac line*
After accufab cleaning and testing (holds 15" vac), there was minimal particals inside, Diaphram was not cracked or see thru, but there was like a gel-coating on it.

*start-up*
for once a steady 02 mv..... untill i turned up FP... DAMNIT!!!

what do you guys think is doing this?
 
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