Knock retard problem

[bswanmi]

This is a new build that started out OK But after a few hard street runs the car lost power. I made it home but now the car runs very rough and the Scanmaster shows 20 deg. KR at idle and increases as the rpms increase. I put my stethoscope on the engine and then on knock sensor and only got a whirring sound, no knocking sound at all. Then I disconnected the knock sensor and still got the same knock retard numbers. I have no idea where to go from here. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[The Granny]

what are you torquing the sensor to?


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[ScottHeidinger]

Maybe a bad ESC module or issue with a wire shorting out somewhere. The ESC module is on the passenger side fender close to the MAP sensor. Check to make sure the grounds are all connected and the wiring at the ESC module is connected properly


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[ScottHeidinger]

Sometimes people miss the ground strap and the other grounds that were connected to the back of the passenger side head.


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[Gene Van Horn]

That whirring sound, sounds like bad news from inside the engine.

 

[bswanmi]

Thank you all. I will remove and re-torque the knock sensor, although I thought disconnecting it would rule out that being the problem. I borrowed an Innovate scanner from a friend and did some more checking/testing this morning. The only code that showed up on the Innovate was #35 which is the IAC. Before I went on my short ride the IAC and the TPS were set properly and I don't want to reset it until i find out what is going on.
This is what my Scanmaster showed this morning at (rough) idle:
394 20
Af 16
L8 81
bat 11.8 Checked out at 14.45 on my multimeter
int 128
BL 128
CLt 100
AtS ____ Blinking, but is plugged in.
r 1050
tPS .38
IAC 58 I know the IAC and tPS are wrong but since they were previously set correctly I don't want to reset them until I/we figure this out.
Mal 00
And again, thank you for any help you can give me.

 

[bswanmi]

Thank you all. I will remove and re-torque the knock sensor, although I thought disconnecting it would rule out that being the problem. I borrowed an Innovate scanner from a friend and did some more checking/testing this morning. The only code that showed up on the Innovate was #35 which is the IAC. Before I went on my short ride the IAC and the TPS were set properly and I don't want to reset it until i find out what is going on.
This is what my Scanmaster showed this morning at (rough) idle:
394 20
Af 16
L8 81
bat 11.8 Checked out at 14.45 on my multimeter
int 128
BL 128
CLt 100
AtS ____ Blinking, but is plugged in.
r 1050
tPS .38
IAC 58 I know the IAC and tPS are wrong but since they were previously set correctly I don't want to reset them until I/we figure this out.
Mal 00
And again, thank you for any help you can give me.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Bring the engine up to operating temperature...and post the SM numbers.

 

[Fast4Ward]

Whattya got for rocker shafts?

 

[bswanmi]

OK, today I re-torqued the knock sensor, replaced the intake air sensor and ran the engine until it came up to temp 180deg.. The KR is gone!! 00. The engine is still running rough and has an intermittent miss but that might be the new cam 218/222 comp-cams flat tappet cam. I have spent some time sweating and chasing the tps and the iac numbers. I put the Innova scan tool back on it and the DTC's come up #35 (an iac problem) and a #43 ( ESC problem and an EST low voltage problem) I can replace the electronic spark control but I'm not sure about the EST low voltage. My next step is to order a new ESC module and hope that solves both problems.
Thank you all for your input and the KR problem is gone and with any luck a new ESC will solve the rest of my problems.

 

[Pronto]

How's the vacuum?