Knock, Knock Who's there?

[bluehair]

not hot wired, but do have a newer gm high flow pump previous owner put in...from a camaro or something like that...

 

[bluehair]

i wonder if changing a fuel filter out would help any....its probably not had one for 10+ years...not many miles on car but from sitting be bad to.

 

[bluehair]

sorry to hijack thread...just having same issue so im on bored here to see what i can do...

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

same issue im having... 15lbs. boost and over 7 deg retard....
fuel pressure 43 at idle...and about 54-55 at WOT... it only gets the knock in high gear....
these cars stress me lol... always something. worse than a woman.

I am having the problem also , sounds like a common problem , plus the woman problem also LOL!!!!

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

Changing that old filter certainly won't hurt!

 

[fast86gn]

I would change the filter first and recheck it at WOT. As said before you should have 1lb of FP for every lb of boost. If static is 43 and your at 15lbs of boost you should see 58 on your fuel gauge. Make sure you check your gauge and make sure it's reading right. Get a good quality gauge with a long hose so you can put it under your wiperblade for testing.

 

[KCODE]

Knock knock, who's there??
Rod, let me out.....

11#drop on the fpr is about double that it should be.
Gauge known to be accurate?

Brand new out of the box aggressive auto.

 

[KCODE]

Rechecked fuel pressure on vac is more like 37 or 38.

 

[KCODE]

Get the information on the back of the chip( numbers on back side) and talk to Eric at TT and see if it need any changes......this may or may not be your current issue but it still needs to be addressed.

http://www.turbotweak.com/

Ordered a new chip matching my turbo.

 

[Buick Mark]

More boost

 

[getdowngranny]

You need to find a way to check your fuel pressure @ W.O.T to make sure your fuel system is functioning properly. The new chip might help but your fuel pressure is still suspect at W.O.T and that could lead to bigger issues really fast.

 

[KCODE]

You need to find a way to check your fuel pressure @ W.O.T to make sure your fuel system is functioning properly. The new chip might help but your fuel pressure is still suspect at W.O.T and that could lead to bigger issues really fast.

Thanks I'll order the fuel pressure gauge with hose.

 

[X Ray]

Ordered a new chip matching my turbo.

I think this is a good start good luck with resolving your issue.

 

[fast86gn]

Get the new gauge with the long hose so you can test at WOT but it sounds like the high flow GM pump you said you had is suspect. Don't forget to change the filter as well. Good luck

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I doubt a stock Camaro pump is considered a "hi flow" unit...

 

[fast86gn]

I have this one in my car, my sons car and my buddy runs it in his stg 2 car. Better than the Walbro's.



DeatschWerks DW300 Fuel Pump w/ Setup Kit - 10-12 Genesis Coupe
[9-301s-1003]

​

DeatschWerks DW300 Fuel Pump with Setup Kit

The bar has just been raised! The DW300 is single highest flowing in-tank fuel pump on the market, capable of flowing 320 LPH. If you plan to run E85 then the DW300 is the pump you are looking for. With it's high flow rate, easy installation, and 3-year no-fault warranty, the DW300 is easy to live with!

 

[Rustyregal]

Check the volume of air going to your fpr. With the car running put the line in your mouth that connects to the fpr. Should pull down pretty fast. I've had a bad metal line that was rusted on the inside making a small orifice and restricting flow. Found the barb fitting on top of my fpr loose on my 86' about a week ago causing a leak. Didn't show up on my Blm's so who knows. If you have access to some compressed air once you get a gauge,hook the air up to your regulator turned all the way down. Then as you turn up the compressed air you can see if your fpr is working as advertised. And below is a list I'm only half way through myself. Hope this helps.




Start going thru this list.............Turbo Regal Knock Problem Check List
1. Start-up knock? Normal and usually caused by the starter engaging the flex plate. Usually sets off 1-3 lights.
2. Possible bad ECM or ESC module. Test with good working units.
3. Exhaust rattle – check the down pipe, tail pipes, and have engine tie down strap
4. Boost creep especially top of 1st gear on 1-2 shift.
5. Lean air/fuel mixture.
6. To low octane gas – bad pump gas – try some race gas
7. Too much timing in chip for fuel used. Try different chip.
8. Try cooler spark plugs – use only AC Delco (R43-TS or R42-TS)
9. Gap plugs to .035
10. Check torque converter bolts to make sure they are tight
11. Loose harmonic balancer. Make sure torqued to 200 ft/lb Is keyway secure?
12. Check internal engine noises like timing chains (roller), lifters/rockers, etc.
13. Damaged knock sensor
14. Check fuel pump pressure and volume
15. Proper torque on knock sensor – 14 ft/lb
16. Check Alternator voltage: 13.8 - 14.5v
17. Check computer power wire - they can break internally.
18. Troubleshoot the computer connector power wires and ground wires.
19. Swap coil pack, wires, plugs w/known good units.
20. Swap MAF with known good unit.
21. Check battery ground connection @ block (clean/inspect).
22. Check/change battery cables (both).
23. Are there MAF leaks in the inlet tube?
24. Are there vacuum leaks. Use carb cleaner or WD-40 & spray everything. Does the rpm change?
25. Disconnect the main injector harness - inspect, WD-40. Check for moisture in main connector.
26. Disconnect the coil-pack connector - inspect pins & spray w/WD-40.
27. Is the cat still installed? Is it good?
28. Have you performed a leak down check?
29. Do the rockers open/close? Do we have a wiped cam lobe?
30. Is the boost/vacuum steady @ idle?
31. Is the engine over revving? Should be 4,800-5,200 rpm
32. Carbon in cylinders? Clean with GM engine top cleaner
33. Inter-cooler dirty? Clean inside inter-cooler and fins
34. Oil in intake tract?
35. Check for exhaust leaks, cracked header
36. Battery good?
37. EGR valve in working order?
38. Check that no cables, wires, etc are touching the knock sensor
39. Blown head gasket? Compression test. Should be around 150.
40. Injectors flowing/working correctly?
41. Check vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator for cracks

 

[bluehair]

wow thats a good list to check off...
my blm's are staying around 90...does that mean vacuum leak? or?
i know i DO NOT have a tie down strap and wondered about that, i havent checked my motor or transmission mounts yet either, i do know i have a small pin hole leak in my exhaust right after the down pipe flange up by my turbo... would that cause false knock? i figured i would put alky on it soon...and if it still did it i would know its probably external and false knock... im getting over 7 degrees in top of drive....not in between shifts, or anything like that just steady climb in drive then wammo....

 

[KCODE]

You need to find a way to check your fuel pressure @ W.O.T to make sure your fuel system is functioning properly. The new chip might help but your fuel pressure is still suspect at W.O.T and that could lead to bigger issues really fast.

Got new chip, adjustable fpr, and phantom2 fuel pressure gauge. Line off fuel pressure 43; line on fuel pressure 38. Fuel pressure does not rise with boost. My quess fuel pump. I purchased walbro pump from a board member along with hot wire kit about 7 months ago. Your toughts?

 

[getdowngranny]

Make sure your FP regulator is working. Use an air compressor and safely put pressure to the regulator and see if it rises.