Im going in....(Timing Chain)

[Hacksaw]

The old chain may LOOK good, but I'll bet there's chain wear marks in that old cam gear.

Like it was said, don't go hog wild on the valve spring tensions for this. I doubt it'll be running at 8,000 rpm.

The oil pumps are easy to take apart. Remove the oil cooler adaptor, then the 6 bolts. Check all the pump clearances; Side, end play, etc. You could add one of those Kenne Bell spacer plate for a little more oil volume, or even one of those longer gear oil pumps offered by several places.

Yes, you probably got at least a good coat of varnish on the oil pick up. It's held on by only 2 screws, so you may want to loctite them in when done.

While you have the pan off, you may want to consider.. ...ah, better not say anything else right now.

Yes, can get more than you may want to do right now, especially when nothing went right lately...

Where are you located?

 

[QWK]

Im in Cincinnati.

I think Im going to take a couple nights off. I was ready to start throwing things last night. ( I didnt, Ive learned my leason on that)

I was having difficuties removing the cross-overs 4 bolts, and the DP keep falling down in my way. All that and my Jack stands only go up so far.
Worse case, I have to blow torch the last bolt of the cross over apart. then maybe that SOMBITCH will come off :biggrin:

Oh well, we will see.

Thank you yet again,
Craig

 

[Alaskabuick]

Spray the bolts on the cross over with penetrating oil and walk away for a day, then do it again, soak them. I use a long extention on a 6 point socket, this way you not trying to work up in a tight space. Bite the bullet and yank the down pipe off and out of your way, it will just continue to piss you off.

Dennis

Im in Cincinnati.

I think Im going to take a couple nights off. I was ready to start throwing things last night. ( I didnt, Ive learned my leason on that)

I was having difficuties removing the cross-overs 4 bolts, and the DP keep falling down in my way. All that and my Jack stands only go up so far.
Worse case, I have to blow torch the last bolt of the cross over apart. then maybe that SOMBITCH will come off :biggrin:

Oh well, we will see.

Thank you yet again,
Craig

 

[QWK]

Spray the bolts on the cross over with penetrating oil and walk away for a day, then do it again, soak them. I use a long extention on a 6 point socket, this way you not trying to work up in a tight space. Bite the bullet and yank the down pipe off and out of your way, it will just continue to piss you off.

Dennis

I have been through 3 cans of PB BLASTER. I think its time for the sawzall and Torches


A grenade would just hurt the garage

 

[QWK]

Ok, my A.D.D. kicked in and I wasnt about to let my GN get the better of me.

I got a few things done tonight.

First off, THANK YOU to those who recommended the removal of the Oil Pan. You were right about "stuff" remaining in there after a complete draining.
Here is a picture of the pan AFTER the drain plug was off for 24 hours. Notice the amount of oil+ANTI-Freeze!!!

And the "Stuff" left in the oil Pick up screen...

Here is what I saw after an hour of fighing with that HEAVY A$$ STARTER and cross-over pipe.

Man, I forgot how heavy stock GM starters are Ill be calling that mini starter guy tomorrow!!


Here is the next step. I guess Im going to tackle the rear main seal. Any tips on that??

What a difference a new night makes. I removed all these in about
2- 2 1/2 hours. This getting up and down off the cold garage floor is kicking my ass!!

Once again I cannot stress the amount of Thanks I have for you guys.
Craig


Ill keep this ongoing till i get it running again

 

[Dabigguy]

I would just like to thank you for taking the time to document your "adventure" for everyone that hasn't done it, but will someday do what you are doing. Thanks to all for the valuable input from everyone as well. A well deserved pat on the back for all.

 

[QWK]

I would just like to thank you for taking the time to document your "adventure" for everyone that hasn't done it, but will someday do what you are doing. Thanks to all for the valuable input from everyone as well. A well deserved pat on the back for all.

Indeed. The members of this site deserve a BIG pat on the back. GNTTYPE.ORG should get an ATTABOY also, but the members that are putting there input in here, I would like to buy them a round. :biggrin:

Im just the "sucker" doing the work with no lift. Three words, GET A LIFT!!!



More to come,
Craig

 

[85 ttypewh1]

I need to do mine, over 200k on chain and pump. Just keep finding an excuse not to.

 

[2QUIK6]

Im just the "sucker" doing the work with no lift. Three words, GET A LIFT!!!

If you have the room in your garage, and do much DIY work on your car, you'd be surprised how much easier it makes things! I do not even dread doing a pan now. Watch the classifieds in the epuipment section, lifts are for sale all the time for garages going out of business and in auctions..usually the people selling them can put you in touch with someone that installs them as they do have to be taken apart.
I got mine for $800 a year ago, and now I wished I would have bought one 10 years ago. http://hometown.aol.com/onebadwskier/images/lift.jpg
Mine was fairly easy to assemble, just 3 main parts, but I still paid a guy $200 to deliver it and help bolt it down to the concrete...I got it moved into the garage using a forklift...so total cost was $1254 as the forklift rental was $254.

Do the rear main seal, do a search and there are several ways to do it...the seal will come with a rubber strip and 2 nails...most do not use that method, just rather just fill the cavities with either "The Right Stuff" rubber sealant or I used Ultra-Black and then once installed poke it a few times with a wet wire which will help the sealant cure...bolt it up and let it sit a day or two to thoroughly let the sealant dry before starting it up....when you get it apart you'll see the cavities on each side of the seal that need filling with sealant.

 

[QWK]

I did notice some dry, crusty silicone near the main cap. I hope this is as fun as the pan removal

 

[2QUIK6]

Here's the rear main procedure most follow: http://gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html
Didn't find any pics though to show you the cavities that will need cleaning out and filling with silicone.

 

[QWK]

Here's the rear main procedure most follow: http://gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html
Didn't find any pics though to show you the cavities that will need cleaning out and filling with silicone.

Thanks, Ill be printing that when I get Home

 

[QWK]

I printed the directions.
Picked up a new Fel Pro Rear main seal and Pick up.
Ordered a new mini Starter from TB,s.com.
So I guess I actually have to do the removal and install on the seal now
Wish me luck.

Ill have pictures up soon

Craig

 

[QWK]

Well its been a productive afternoon.

I headed down to the garage with my directions in hand and re read them a few times. I decided to tear into the old silicone on the edges of the main cap(per instructions) I took an old Craftsman flat head a poked and turned till most of the stuff was out. It took about 10 minutes to clean the groove.

Once I broke the cap bolts loose, I pryed on the two bolts, front and back, to try and get the cap free. It didnt work.

I then tapped on the main with a plastic mallet, here

and off she came.
Notice the old silicone on the sides of the block. You will need to clean that off.

The old rope seal....Wasnt too bad to get out. I took my trusty Craftsman flat head and pryed into and AWAY from the crank to get the old seal out. It took a few good times of "digging" in and pulling away to get the seal out.

I got a little more of the seal out and pulled with the needle nose.

VIOLA!!! It finally came out (10 minutes)

Next came the cleaning of the cap nd block. Laquer thinner worked pretty good.

Heres where I cleaned the groove and the beveled edge. Make sure you get ALL the old silicone and rope seal removed.

 

[QWK]

I wouldve taken some pictures of the seal install. But it was kinda of PITA. I managed to get it in and coated with some oil. I had to turn the crank and push on the upper seal to get it in. I left one side "hanging" down so that the seal would be offset of the main cap and block surface.

I then installed the cleaned cap into the cleaned block. Tightend the bolts by hand, then torqued em in sequence to a final 100lbs.

I then took my new tube of silicone and cut the first tip off. Inserted it into the groove, and sueezed the crap out of it!!

I kept squeezing till the silicone "ozed" out of the crack.

Now its all drying and Im taking a break.

The timing cover is painted and awaiting its install, so i guess Ill keep on hammering on till the pan is on. I think the rubber gasket is going to be a PITA. But I figured I got this far, so we will see.

I hope this helps someone.
Craig

 

[QWK]

I got the pan on last night. I took the advice about tying the gasket to the pan. It worked GREAT!! It didnt come off while I was fishing the pan up into place. I torque all the bolts down and now Im waiting for my ministarter.

More pics later.

 

[QWK]

Ill tell ya, this thing is one big project after another.
Since I was doing the Timing chain, I needed to remove the pulleys. Since I was removing them, I might as well replace them with RJCs. Then I needed to pull the pan. Since I had the pan off, I went ahead a replaced the main seal. To get better access to the pan I needed to pull the starter. Since I have the starter off, Im gonna upgrade it to a mini. But before I put the starter back on, I might as well replace the motor mounts. To get better access to the Motor mounts, I went ahead a pulled the headers. Since I have the headers off, and they are cracked, I might as well replace them. Since I had to remove the Turbo, you guessed it, I replaced that too. And Hell, the Down pipe was in the way, so Viola!! Its getting replaced also. Anyting else needed???

Oh yeah, lets not forget. The Valve cover gaskets were toast, so i had to pull the covers to replace them. While I have the covers off, I might as well replace the Valve springs. Since I have the Valve springs off, I might as well replace the seals....


Someone shoot me.

Stay tuned, its only begining

 

[jamericaniSS]

This is such a great thread, keep up the good work and the pictures, we are routing for you to get it back together

 

[QWK]

This is such a great thread, keep up the good work and the pictures, we are routing for you to get it back together

I will be the happiest guy when I light the tires up on the street!

It just seems like there are a $hitload of obstacles when dealing with these cars. To do this, you have to do that this and them...
I guess if it was easy, everyone would be doing it.


Thanks for the support. Im going to show the wife this thread so she will forgive me for getting grease/oil/crap on her camera

Im beat, and headed for the sack.

See you all again soon,
Craig

 

[Dabigguy]

Oooooops, another cost. Your wife's camera is now the "shop" camera......gotta buy her a new higher resolution one. The cost of going fast.....geez !!!!

This is cool.......reality TV comes to TurboBuick online !!!!! I can't wait for the next installment.......