hydroboost setup???

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Dec 4, 2007
Does anyone out there have info on conversion to a hydroboost setup? How does it work? Part numbers possibly and any other info would be greatly appreciated. thanks
 
Send a PM to POWERBRAKEBOB on this board. He handles the Hydroboost systems.
 
Does anyone out there have info on conversion to a hydroboost setup? How does it work? Part numbers possibly and any other info would be greatly appreciated. thanks

I ordered mine through POWERBRAKEBOB and it came with everything needed to do the install including instructions. One of the best purchases I have ever made for the GN.
 

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Just thought of something..........

One thing I almost forgot to mention is filter. You should really install an in line filter on the hose that goes from the steering gear box back to the booster. Any debris getting into the booster can cause problems. This is unlikely but better to be safe than sorry.
 
What are the pros and cons of a hydroboost set-up in comparison with a Vacuum system?

DreamCar86, How much did you pay for your set-up from POWERBRAKEBOB?
 
Hydroboost Conversion

HI Mr Awash. As you know high vacuum is hard to get on a small turbocharged motor. The only time there is enough, is with a closed throttle, and downshifting. Buick decided not to install the Regal vacuum booster on the G.N. because of that reason. There have been some guys here that have tried it, with problems at high boost of blowing off the vacuum hose, or blowing the check valve apart. Then they waste $400.00 on an electric vacuum pump, that is noisy, and still doen't have the volume needed to operate the booster in traffic. That is why Buick used the electric powermaster. No vacuum. The problem with those is the electric pump. it has plastic vanes in it. Brake fluid is not a lubricant, and the vanes wear out quickly. This over works the pump. The other problem with all of those pumps is the seal between the pump and the windings. When the seal leaks fluid into the windings, it shorts out the fuse and the pump. Those pumps are sealed, and not rebuildable. Buick quit building the A body cars in 87, and only used the Powermaster in 86-87. They did not really want to deal with the P/M anymore, and discontinued it. The Regal vac booster, with low vacuum, delivers about 800psi out to the brakes. The Hydroboost can deliver up to 2000psi to the brakes, at idle p/s pump speed. They run off of the P/S pump pressure, and thus, no vacuum needed for the booster. As the engine speeds up, so does the p/s pump. This holds the Hydroboost on even harder. You can spool those turbos up, some guys here say to 22lbs with your foot on the brake. The car's stopping ability is completely different at speeds over 100. It stops as if you are doing 50. It's a completely different feel of confidence. You can plant the car into a high speed turn, and know exactly how it will feel. The hydroboost, with occasional clean fluid, can last up to 200,000 miles, and is rebuildable. Another advantage is the master is inexpensive, and easily replaceable. The P/M does not separate. The part number for the Hydroboost, master, and bracket is 2772-211, Specify if it is the original pedal, or the vacuum pedal. The hydroboost uses the same pedal as the P/M, but we have a bracket for the other pedal. Same as the Monte Carlo. There are two hose sets, One has all stainless pressure, and returns, or stainless pressure, with rubber returns.
 
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One thing I almost forgot to mention is filter. You should really install an in line filter on the hose that goes from the steering gear box back to the booster. Any debris getting into the booster can cause problems. This is unlikely but better to be safe than sorry.

I thought that the line going to the booster came straight from the pump. Anyway mine was like that from the factory and when I converted to the 87 pump I adapted the lines. Mine goes from pump to hyd. boost to power steering (all high pressure) to reservoir (low pressure). Also have a low pressure return from hyd. boost to reservior. BTW the low pressure from hyd.--I installed another port in the reservior instead of Teeing into the pump return.
 
I ordered mine through POWERBRAKEBOB and it came with everything needed to do the install including instructions. One of the best purchases I have ever made for the GN.


How difficult was the install and how long did it take you?? Ive been thinking about a hydroboost upgrade. Thanks!
 
You guys with the hydroboost setup - how hard is it to do burnouts without a line lock?
 
I think I may be going this route. Reminds me of buying alky, it seemed like a lot of money for a single modification to the car, and I spent time trying to figure out cheaper alternatives, but eventually went with Razor's kit and realized I never should have doubted it.

PowerMaster is free but risky, vacuum brake kit is $250-300 but most guys don't get amazing results, manual brakes are cheap but not a good idea on a street car... as much as I don't want to spend $600+ on something that doesn't even make the car go faster... it's starting to make the most sense.
 
Remember, if the motor shuts off at top end for some reason you will have no power asisted brakes!with this setup Someone corrrect me if i am wrong? I have had the engine shut off when the head gaskets blow, so not sure if this is safe in that respect.

My minivan has this setup and the motor stalled once, good thing no one was in front of me........

This is a great set up otherwise, i would have gone that route.
 
Hydroboost Conversion

Actually, I Think The Car Ends Up Being Faster. Guys Here Have Reported Being Able To Spool Up To 22lbs Of Boost With Their Foot On The Brakes. The H/b Will Set That Line Lock Harder Than You Can Any Other Way. Red Lighting Is A Loser. Guys Here Have Reported Red Lighting With As Little As 1-2lbs Boost. As The Pump Speeds Up, It Holds The H/b Even Harder! The Only Time We Had A Problem Was With The Original Crank Pulley Overspeeding And Cavitating The Pump. 10,000rpm Pump Speed Is Too Much @ Approx 6000 Crank Speed. I Think The Alternator Is Turning 22,000 Rpm @ 6000 Crank. For Drag Racing The Crank Pulley Size Should Be Reduced. Street Cars Had To Keep Accessory Speeds Up Cruising The Hwy At 1300 Rpm In O.d. Hose Routing Goes Like This; The New Pressure Hose Goes From The Pump Outlet Into The Accum Side Of The H/b. The Outlet Port Of The H/b (16mm) Continues Down To The Pressure Side Of The Steering Box. The Box Has A Return To The Reservoir, And The H/b Has It's Own Return. It Is Best, And The H/b Releases Quicker If There Is A Second Fitting Adapted Into The Reservoir For The Hydroboost's Return. Since It Is Plastic, It Needs Rubber Type Gaskets, Around That Fitting, Or, We Have A New Polished Alum Reservoir With The Second Return, And A 5/8" (-10) Suction Line. It's Better To Go That Way. As Far As Reserve Power Brakes, That Is The Purpose Of The Accumulator. It Holds High Pressure Inside, Enough For 2-3 Stops With Power Assist. If You Are Still At Speed After That, The H/b Becomes Straight Manual Push-thru. Vacuum Boosters Usually Have Maybe 1 Stop With Reserve Vacuum, And Then The Pedal Gets Real Hard. With The H/b. You Can Throw The Car Into A Turn As Hard As The Tires Can Take It, With Complete Confidence In The Brakes. Hothkiss Is Testing H/b's, Since Their Sway Bars Corner So Well. The H/b Is Great For Slalom Road Racing. Is The Car Faster? Oh, Yes. Try One.
 
SO you get at least one good stop thats good to hear. Il;l try on my van tomorrow. Thanks for the info
 
Hydroboost Conversion

The Website Is "powerbrakesonline.com" My Email Is "powerbrakebob@msn.com" The Part Number For The Hydroboost, Master, And Bracket Is 2772-211. Specify Which Pedal You Will Be Using. We Have Brackets For Either. The Hose Set Is 2772 605 With The Rubber Return Hoses, And 2775-601 With All Stainless Hoses. We Recommend Adding An Extra Return Tube On To The Reservoir, Or, We Have Some Very Cool Polished Alum Reservoirs That Have The Extra H/b Return Port. The H/b Releases Quicker With A Separate Return, Instead Of Tee'ing The Returns. The Flow Coming Out Of The Steering Box Tries To Push Fluid Up The H/b Return Line. Slowing It.
 
The Website Is "powerbrakesonline.com" My Email Is "powerbrakebob@msn.com" The Part Number For The Hydroboost, Master, And Bracket Is 2772-211. Specify Which Pedal You Will Be Using. We Have Brackets For Either. The Hose Set Is 2772 605 With The Rubber Return Hoses, And 2775-601 With All Stainless Hoses. We Recommend Adding An Extra Return Tube On To The Reservoir, Or, We Have Some Very Cool Polished Alum Reservoirs That Have The Extra H/b Return Port. The H/b Releases Quicker With A Separate Return, Instead Of Tee'ing The Returns. The Flow Coming Out Of The Steering Box Tries To Push Fluid Up The H/b Return Line. Slowing It.

Your posts are hard to read, stop capitalizing the first letter or every word.
 
What are the pros and cons of a hydroboost set-up in comparison with a Vacuum system?

DreamCar86, How much did you pay for your set-up from POWERBRAKEBOB?

The pros are you will have brakes that are reliable and actually work. The cons if you want to call it a con would be the price. You are looking at about $500.00 to purchase the system. This may sound expensive but how much have you spent on the factory system and how much more will you spend down the road?

The hydroboost is one of the best installs I have ever done for my GN. I have held 22 lbs of boost on the line and the car did not move. It works well with the line lock also. It is truely one of those things that you have to see it to believe how well it works.
 
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