HRPartsNStuff vs. Global West

[mgmshar]

Debating, debating...

I've been trying to decide what I want to do with my rear suspension. If I go with new control arms, I think I've got my choices narrowed down to the following:

1. HR Parts N Stuff lowers and uppers, with poly bushings.
2. Global West lowers and uppers, with spherical bearings (frame side) and Del-A-Lum bushings (rear-end side).

For what it's worth, I'm thinking about the ATR roll bar and a set of cargo springs to complete my rear suspension package. My car runs about mid-11's, with a hopefully 1.6ish sixty-foot time off the foot brake.

I'd appreciate feedback on either of these set-ups, for those who are running them. I am somewhat concerned about the rumors that poly bushings cause rear suspension squeak and bind. Anybody experience that with the HR bars?

Thanks,

 

[TRBON8R]

I recommend the HR Parts LCAs. Along with my ATR rear bar they do a great job of keeping the rear end planted where it's supposed to be. The downside as you mentioned is that the bushings can and do squeak a bit. To solve that problem just turn the stereo up a bit, or better yet mash the gas pedal and voila.....problem solved, no more squeak sound.

 

[Trbobuick]

mike,

Dont mix suspention from one company to another.

I personally would do the whole hrparts rear suspention with his anti roll bar.

 

[salvageV6]

My HR Parts bushings are all greaseable and don't make noise.

Boxed lowers, stock uppers, on my WE4, driven all winter, with an ATR swaybar. Work great together.

GN has HR Parts uppers and lowers with the HR Parts bar. Launches straight and hope to improve track times next year.

I would have no problem running the ATR bar with the HR Parts lower arms. I found some grade 8 hardware for my ATR bar.

Following the highly detailed instructions you get with the HR stuff makes the install a lot easier.

 

[mgmshar]

Trbobuick, I see your point, but only kind-of. The rear sway bar and control arms are independent things in the rear suspension. HR didn't even make control arms until recently. My thinking is that the $300 cheaper (or whatever) ATR bar should be "good enough" for an 11 second car. To be honest, if I wasn't afraid of bar distortion, I would probably just box and bush my stock control arms and be done with it. But, the cost of boxing and bushing my stock arms is not much less than the new arms, and I have heard that the ATR bar can distort the stock control arms because it is so stiff.

TRBON8R - when you installed the HR bars, did you notice a significant difference in ride harshness?

Anyone out there using the global west bars? I'm thinking that bars with a spherical joint on one end (no "forgive") and a stiff bushing (Del-a-Lum) on the other end are going to ride really harsh.

Thanks,

 

[Chuck Leeper]

HR???

I just made my first passes w/ the newly installed HR antiroll bar..
10.30 @133+, and it drove like it was on the street cruising!
I had an ATR bar to try, along w/ airbags. Took it all off, installed the HR bar, and used my own uppers and lowers... Rides great, and will see some street use this fall and back to the track in Feb..
Anyone wanting a set of like new airbags/hardware, and a new ATR bar for a RIGHT price.. e-mail me.

 

[salvageV6]

I agree with one of your points about boxing the stockers.

I bought the HR Parts boxing kit and new greaseable bushings and paid someone to weld them up.

By the time I was done I was very near the cost of the new arms.

For someone with a welder it's not an issue which way to go, the boxing kit and bushings are easy to install or you could make your own and pick up Chucks used parts listed above.

 

[TRBON8R]

Mike,

The HR LCAs and ATR bar went on at the same time so I can't comment on how each of those parts individually affect ride. I can tell you though that with the ATR bar and HR lower LCAs the ride was slightly stiffer than stock. Keep in mind though that while the suspension was apart I took the time to install new rear coil springs since my old springs were sagging. The new springs probably stiffened things up a bit. The ride is now more firm than stock but not uncomfortable at all. I would be fine with the ride quality even if my car was a daily driver. Good luck.

 

[mgmshar]

OK, I'll bite...

For an 11-second car (and it's going to stay that way, no roll cage in my 35,000 mile baby), is it really worth the extra $300 or so to go with the HR roll bar?

I'm not looking to set track records. I'd be very happy with consistent 1.7's or 1.6's on slicks at an average track, launching off the foot brake.

I have no doubt that the HR roll bar is the "ultimate solution" for high-hp cars that launch hard. But, at my level, is it worth it?

Here's the point - at my last outing, my best run was 12.0 at 116mph. 60' time was 2.0. Even on a not-so-great track, a car with slicks should be able to run at least a 1.8 or a 1.7. I just want to get to that level.

You guys are making me think about this more. Thanks, I think!

 

[Turbonics]

Your choice of the GW lowers are definitely better for the reasons you listed...the spherical & delalum bushings. Honestly, adjustable uppers are unnecessary & likely unused by most. Fresh bushings in stock uppers are more than adequate...box 'em if you really really want too.

GW makes a very effective oversized rear swaybar that is not the nuclear "overkill" of the ATR, and is of much higher quality fit & finish.

Probably second behind the GW rear lowers would be the billet METCO units.

More food for thought!!

 

[John Larkin]

Chuck gots mail.

 

[Trbobuick]

Mike,

an anti roll bar is needed in any car. From a 14 second stocker to a 9 second monster. It does what a sway bar is supposed to do . It will also leave the car flat on turns , eliminating that tire scrape when running big tires. If you want, you can borrow my anti roll bar since my car will be down till this spring. Im sure brian hofer has an atr bar for you to try. That way you can do a back to back test and not be out any cash. 248-640-7249

 

[Michael McCoy]

Keep it in the family & buy from Paul.

 

[mgmshar]

Trbobuick, maybe you are missing my point...

Regardless of what I do to the rear control arms, I will definitely have a rear sway bar on my car. I basically have three options:

1. Keep the stock sway bar.
2. Go to the ATR bar (the "next step up")
3. Go to the HR Parts bar (the "ultimate solution").

I am pretty convinced that I want to upgrade the swaybar from the stock one. However, I am asking if there it is worth the extra money to go from the ATR bar to the HR Parts bar. There is a big price difference, as everyone knows. My question is simply, "Is the price difference worth it for an 11-second car?".

I'm thinking now that maybe I'll just redo the front suspension over the winter (new stock replacement springs, stock style bushings, etc.), install my front QA1's, and see where I'm at. If the car still doesn't hook, maybe I'll look at the rear suspension next summer.

I would be interested in taking the ATR bar for a "test drive" next spring. I'll be in touch.

Any other opinions, especially from those running the hardware, greatly appreciated.

 

[c&cgn]

I have boxed stock lower control arms and an ATR bar and it works fine for me. No reason you cna't do it that way. If you really want new LCA's then just get HR's and then add the ATR bar. My car 60's in the 1.5's and low 1.6's all day long.

I think what you are asking is if the HR bar's cost to benefit ratio is there for a mid 11 car. I can't answer that, but as said above boxed stockers, ATR bar and airbags have worked great for me so far.

HTH

Clayton

 

[machinegun]

Your question is is it worth it? Well I can truely say that the answer lies only in you. However if you would like my opinion then yes it is very worht it. I have 2 GN's. One 10 second weekend driver race car and one daily driven. I have the HRPARTSNSTUFF bar on both. The difference that it made on both cars on their own way was astounding. The race car I am able to remove the front bar, not run air bags, run the ET streets and drive around with no worries. Stops and drives very nice. Now the daily driven GN has 16 " centerline billet wheels, BFG TA tires 50 series all around, KYB gas shocks and stock front bar. This car handles like it is on rails. But this thing into the off ramp at 60+ and you get thrown out of the seat long before the car starts to go anywhere. Sorry no drink holders allowed as they will not stay in place. The car drives on twisty roads so nice and smooth and controllable as opposed to the stock setup. It is actually a dream to drive daily now. All I can say is I have bought 2 and they were both worth every penny.

 

[salvageV6]

I'd borrow the ATR bar and get the HR lowers.

Takes a couple of months to get the HR bar anyway.

By then you can make up your mind if you like it (ATR).

I did the uppers, lowers, swaybar, and engine mounts because I wanted the GN to be all from one source and Pauls stuff is quality and works well. Only reason, you can mix and match some stuff for sure it's done all the time.

My uppers in the 120K GN were fine, rubber was great actually.

Once you pull them out swapping bushings and boxing would work but it's easier to pop in some new ones at that time, for me anyway. No free welder available.

Just my .02.

I am happy with both cars setups.

 

[machinegun]

If you are ever down this way look me up and you are welcome to drive one of mine to see for your self. I would personally do the CA's, with you getting deep into the 11's, they will make your car more enjoyable to drive and hook much better. I use all of the HR stuff onboth cars.

 

[bar87]

Originally posted by machinegun
Your question is is it worth it? Well I can truely say that the answer lies only in you. However if you would like my opinion then yes it is very worht it. I have 2 GN's. One 10 second weekend driver race car and one daily driven. I have the HRPARTSNSTUFF bar on both. The difference that it made on both cars on their own way was astounding. The race car I am able to remove the front bar, not run air bags, run the ET streets and drive around with no worries. Stops and drives very nice. Now the daily driven GN has 16 " centerline billet wheels, BFG TA tires 50 series all around, KYB gas shocks and stock front bar. This car handles like it is on rails. But this thing into the off ramp at 60+ and you get thrown out of the seat long before the car starts to go anywhere. Sorry no drink holders allowed as they will not stay in place. The car drives on twisty roads so nice and smooth and controllable as opposed to the stock setup. It is actually a dream to drive daily now. All I can say is I have bought 2 and they were both worth every penny.

on your street car, this is with the stock front swaybar? if so, do you think it would benefit from a larger front bar as well? ive been pondering the value of the hr bar for a street car for some time now...

 

[Trbobuick]

mike-

I didnt miss your point. There is a huge diffrence in a sway bar and an anti roll bar. I offered my bar up for you so you could do a HR BAR VS an atr bar test , so YOU could decide without any cash out of pocket.

Only you can tell if its worth it.

And for whats its worth...i have ridden in a car with del-a-lums on just one end of the bar. It rides like my Dick Miller solid Hiem end bars. Real harsh.