How to convert to S-10 wheel cylinders.

[V6POWER]

Is there a "How To" site anywhere for this conversion?
Are there any special tools needed that make the job easier?

 

[Rickracer]

It's exactly the same as replacing stockers

If you have a service manual, the procedure is the same as what the book says. The only difference is the size of the pistons inside the cylinders, otherwise, they are identical.

 

[V6POWER]

Thanks. I'll try to obtain a service manual.

 

[Rickracer]

I've read that there is a "How To" on the S10 cylinder installation here:

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/linelock.html

Having done many many of these, I can help a bit here. There is a tool for the clip on the backside of the cylinder. If you get your parts from AutoZone, they may have the tool for rent as well. If not, most tool trucks (Snap-On, Matco, Mac, etc.) have them. That would definitely save you some aggravation. I have a wedge shaped piece of wood I made from an old hammer handle that I use to wedge between the cylinder and the axle flange to hold them in place with while I re-attach the clip on the backside. Good luck with it, and let us know how it works out.

 

[V6POWER]

Thanks for the link and the advice on getting the additional tool. I don't understand the use of the wedge piece of wood so when I get into the job I may be posting again.

 

[Rickracer]

Once you get into it, the use of the wedge should become readily apparent

it isn't absolutely necessary, but it frees up your other hand to help re-installing the clip.

 

[John Larkin]

It's pretty darn frustrating. The clip wants to jump out on the side you aren't holding down when installing. If you have a friend come over and help, both of you armed with a pair of screwdrivers can probably get it in the groove. That almost sounds sexual.

 

[Rickracer]

That's where the tool comes in handy

It spreads the clip. When re-installing it, you can use it to push the clip over the cylinder, remove the tool, and use two screwdrivers to shove it home and latch it. The wedge holds the cylinder in place while you are messing with the clip.

 

[V6POWER]

I guess I have to start the job to see what you are refering to. It has been raining here so I can't back the car out to work on the cylinders.

 

[bwallace]

Might want to grab an extra piece of brake line while your getting the parts. One of my fittings was rusted to the brake line end up having to cut it free.

 

[Rickracer]

Just did a set this morning

Took me about half an hour/45 minutes between phone calls.

 

[Gnx6]

When you start to wrestle with the installation of the clip you will understand the meaning of the block! You shove it between the axle and the wheel cyl to hold it tight. Those clips can be a bitch.

 

[V6POWER]

I installed the cylinders without too much trouble. I used a pick to get the clip off and a large screw driver to put it back on. The piece of wood worked great to hold the cylinder in place. Thanks for the suggestions.

Unfortunately, I still can't hold more than three pounds boost with the vacuum brakes while brake torqueing. I have two long Performance Friction shoes and I have the brakes adjusted so they just drag. Would a vacuum reservoir in the line from the tb to the booster help? I sure hate to go back to the powermaster, but that is my next step if I can't hold at least five pounds boost at the line. Any suggestions to help hold more boost?

 

[BarnesGN]

We'll swap cars!

That'll fix it.

 

[V6POWER]

Sam---I'd hate to have you end up with a car with an inferior brake system.

 

[bwallace]

Were you able to hold more than 3 lbs with the powermaster and old cylinders and pads? I went to vaccum because I was tired of replacing the PM. I can hold around 5+ lbs with drag radials on the street, not to mention brakes will lock if I really hit them hard. Very happy with the feel of vaccum. I do have line lock which may keep the brakes cooler before I launch.

 

[V6POWER]

I could hold 5-8# on the line with pm and original cylinders. I agree with your statement about pedal feel...I like the vacuum.
I do have a line lock.

Do your brakes lock on dry roads or wet?

 

[Gnx6]

You need to use either an electric Vac pump or a Vac reservoir with a check valve going to the booster.

A line lock would probably be the best solution.

 

[V6POWER]

Gnx6---I have a line lock but it is just for burnouts, not staging.
Where can I get a vacuum reservoir?

 

[Gnx6]

They are nothing more than a ball with a check valve. Most of them are designed for accessories on cars that use Vac. Such as cruise A/C mode doors etc. With out the Vac ball you cruise wouldn't work worth a crap and the car would default to defrost mode every time you jumped on it. Perhaps JC whitney or something along that line. I'm trying to think of who would carry something that would be capable of sustaining the larger air flow requirements of Vac brakes. I don't think the standard ball would do the trick.

If you want consistent pedal feel a Vac pump would work best. But a Vac reservoir of some type should do the trick as this is for a short event. However if you move the brake pedal up and down more than a few times when you stage you may loose the vac.

See if you can find some type of a Vac reservoir. (Any sealed container really). You would want to have it 'teed to the line going to your vac brakes and a check valve in the line before the vac reservoir and the booster. Ideally something that would close up before the line reaches 0 vac. otherwise you may deplete the Vac level to a level that it is not useful. It's something you'll have to play with.

I'll think on this one some more.