How fast with bolt on's?

MSUGTP

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2005
I'll be getting a GN soon and right now it has regular bolts and mildly ported heads. I really don't plan on doing cam or heads or anything too serious with the car. But say with a little bigger turbo, injectors, exhaust, chip, (including the ported heads that are on the car) and other bolt ons, how fast would a GN go?

Also, would it be worth the time and money to install a cam to take advantage of the ported heads? I would imagine knowing exactly what was done to the heads would be helpful in deciding what cam to pick as well. Thanks!
 
mild bolt on mid 11's to high 11's yes get a cam with ported heads also port the intake
 
It really depends on how hard you're willing to run your car and how much time you're willing to spend making sure the tune is right. I think there's a few guys on this board that have done 11's w/o doing much more than a turbo and a few others that have been 10's on the stock block. Don't sweat the cam too much unless you want to spin the motor past about 5200 rpm. (you'd have to search as I'm going from memory) If you're running the stock cam I think many would agree you could spend the money elsewhere and get more bang for the buck as these motors don't respond as much to cam changes as a N/A engine. HTH
 
There are a lot of "recipes" around, which basically give you the mods done by individuals, along with the performance they have achieved. Tom Cramer (RJC Performance) has gone into the 10s, with stock heads (MINOR porting), an unported stock intake, and a stock location intercooler, on a stock block. Others are well into the 11s with a lot more mods, so Tom's performance shows that tuning is very important. One thing that most agree on, however, is the need for a girdle, and/or billet mains. At about 600hp, the stock lower end is no longer reliable, and needs some reinforcement.
 
I had a VERY conservative '86 T-type that cracked-off an 11.15 @ 121.
Basic mods were TE62, MSD50's, TT race chip, 25psi boost, 116 octane gas, and a shot of nitrous. The rest of the car was pretty much bone stock.
 
Ive got a friend thats in the 10 50s with a stock shortblock car personally.... Ive been 10 70s but even then its sorta scarey IMO. Right now Im redoing my entire car agian for a smaller more steretable combo and I am going to be shooting for a high 10 :D
 
What do you want out of the car? Is this a 99% street car? Its not like you can run a 10.50 pass through your neighborhood, so build it in a way that wont leave you spinning the tires for 3 blocks. I like my TE-44. Does plenty for what it is and is an 11 sec capable turbo. Spools really quick and makes street driving a blast.
Go through all the sensors and replace whats bad and adjust what you can. gnttype.org has all the articles on how to do all that. Clean out the IC, replace check valves, replace the EGR valve and gasket, and clean the EGR solenoid filter. Replace the charcoal canister solenoid. Pop the connectors on the fan relays, unbolt the relays and clean all the old black tar off the connections with ronsonol lighter fluid. Alot of these cars fans dont work right because of the poor connections here. Get new MSD wires and some plugs that are 2 steps colder than stock. Throw on an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Make the car solid and reliable before you tear into the motor. Get a 340 walbro pump and hotwire kit from racetronix. Get some sticky tires. I have dunlop sp sport D40's. These hook better than my nitto DR's did and the tread lasts alot longer. Sticky tires are one of the best bang for the buck mods you can do. Get an RJC boost controller to help spool the turbo alot faster. Get an external tranny cooler. From here, move onto bigger things like intercoolers, alky kits, bigger turbos, bigger injectors and a chip. I have MSD 50's, an LS1 MAF from a junkyard for 80 bucks, a translator and an extender chip. I can tune everything myself with this. I cant imagine running a chip you cant program yourself, after having this. And the first thing you should buy is a scanmaster 2.1 or direct scan. Makes tuning and adjusting sensors much easier. You'll also need it to get your BLM's in check...a very important thing. People have run really quick with the stock torque converter, but this is also a great bang for the buck mod. The turbo will spool quicker and it will bring your engine into the powerband quicker and multiply torque better if you get the right one. The art carr TC I had made it feel like it had 100 more hp, but it was a non lock TC. If your valvesprings are old, replace them. These cars tend to have old valvetrains with old springs. My rpm's cant go above 4800 under full throttle cause they're wasted. Theres alot of HP to be had there. Also get a 3" Downpipe with a 3" test pipe that has a built in dump to bypass the catback when you want.
 
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