How did you get to mid-low 11s?

jskarateka

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2008
For anyone with a TA49 and/or similar to my combo;

Where was your tune (Boost, A/F, Timing, RPM) to get in to the mid to low 11s (on pump gas and alky)?

Been trying for years. Was stuck at mid 12s with the old stock unopened block and heads before I finally broke it (rod bearing). New build is better but stuck at 11.9-12.1 @ 110-112 with 1.7-1.9 60ft. 25 lbs of boost, no knock.

I know every car is different, but I'd like to see what some others have done since I think I've read and tried everything.

Thanks guys.
 
/\ Yep...

I had a similar set up years ago just no alky on 116 race fuel. 1.6 sixtys and ran 11.6 at 114mph 23lbs and race chip w/ 27 degrees of timing.
 
Have you tried playing with your timing and low gear fueling?

Yes. First gear is only a problem so far as I have some traction issues. I usually run my BFG 275/60 drag radials at the track rather than the Nittos in my sig. Even with a really good launch, I end up breaking traction for an instant right about 60 ft. Of course the fact that I have zero suspension upgrades and my body mount bushing are shot may have something to do with it. That's my next project.

My MPH always sucked though, I don't gain much at the big end, although it pulls hard and steady throughout the run. I've ruled out the usual culprits that I've read about here, and locking didn't help much.

Is the TA49 and Dutt neck stock IC holding me back on the horse power/MPH that much? I got them years ago before I broke the stock unopened long block. Seems I've read many others that have managed way higher MPH in the 1/4 with a TA49 though.
 
Work on those 60ft times.

Every 10th you shave off equals 2 10ths at the end of the track. A mid/low 1.5 and a good set of drag radials gets you right where you want to be.
 
Bet your issue is the 10" PTC converter...
 
You are in the same boat to me. I have a very similar build to you. Champion Irons, 212 / 212, TT chip and Alky, loose converter, and a TE-44. You will never 60ft good with that combo just as I will never either. My best 60ft was a 1.8 with M&H DR's. The Turbo comes on WAY too hard and is uncontrollable. I also have the worst case of part throttle turbo flutter on the street ever.

I'd say you need to go with the correct turbo for the rest of your setup. One day I will too, but I almost never go to the track and the big block like throttle response I get when stabbing this thing from a roll does make up for the rest of the issues.

I was in Tucson a couple months back and hit the dragstrip. I ran 118 mph consistently in a 4500ft DA, but never broke out of the 12's lol. I was running wore out Toyo Proxes street tires though. I've run 123 mph down the back end on a good night. Never got past mid 11's though. I'm sure that I'm a good turbo and set of tires away from mid 10's, but my car is more of a cruiser for me.
 
Your mph is off for sure. Have you calculated converter slip? PL?

I'll have to look up how to do that. I can say that at the finish line my RPM is about 5200 on the 275/60 DRs, or about 5600 if I run with the 275/50 Nittos. In first and second gear it will pull hard and steady up to 6000 if I let it, but I usually shift at 5200-5500. That's running with converter unlocked. I haven't tried locking yet with my current long block, but with the old stock block, cam, and heads I did a few times. Gave me about 1 more MPH if that.


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You are in the same boat to me. I have a very similar build to you. Champion Irons, 212 / 212, TT chip and Alky, loose converter, and a TE-44. You will never 60ft good with that combo just as I will never either. My best 60ft was a 1.8 with M&H DR's. The Turbo comes on WAY too hard and is uncontrollable. I also have the worst case of part throttle turbo flutter on the street ever.

I'd say you need to go with the correct turbo for the rest of your setup. One day I will too, but I almost never go to the track and the big block like throttle response I get when stabbing this thing from a roll does make up for the rest of the issues.

I was in Tucson a couple months back and hit the dragstrip. I ran 118 mph consistently in a 4500ft DA, but never broke out of the 12's lol. I was running wore out Toyo Proxes street tires though. I've run 123 mph down the back end on a good night. Never got past mid 11's though. I'm sure that I'm a good turbo and set of tires away from mid 10's, but my car is more of a cruiser for me.


Thanks Mike. This is what I mean. You're able to get 118-123 MPH with a 1.8 60ft. My best time/MPH is 11.96 @ 111 with a 1.76 60ft. 25lbs of boost. 93 octane with Alky knob at 6.5. I would be very happy with that on my TA49 (for awhile anyway, you know how that goes).


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Thanks Mike. This is what I mean. You're able to get 118-123 MPH with a 1.8 60ft. My best time/MPH is 11.96 @ 111 with a 1.76 60ft. 25lbs of boost. 93 octane with Alky knob at 6.5. I would be very happy with that on my TA49 (for awhile anyway, you know how that goes).

It's horsepower. 25-psi of boost is just a measure of resistance, your timing needs to be there.
 
It's horsepower. 25-psi of boost is just a measure of resistance, your timing needs to be there.

You know, I never tried advancing timing more that a degree or 2 because of what I've read here about it being more risky with knock, especially when you're not running the slower burning race fuel. Timing with the new longblock has been where Eric put it when I had him burn a chip for my current build. 23/21 if I remember right.

Have read the threads about verifying timing as well, so I know it may be off a little. My motor was built by a TurboBuick staff member though, so I'm guessing it's pretty close. I will try playing with the timing a little more this summer.


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What size injectors are you running, and where was the injector duty cycle during the runs? The air/fuel monitoring is great for avoiding knock and optimizing fuel, but injector size and duty cycle will tell you where your power is...
 
Mike, we have a private track rental down in Tucson this Sunday. 2 prepped lanes from 8 am until 3 pm.

$200 buy in, not that you have to worry, but no tech. :D

You should come down. Any other guys in the area interested?

Sorry for the thread jack - Now, we return to our regular scheduled programming....
 
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What size injectors are you running, and where was the injector duty cycle during the runs? The air/fuel monitoring is great for avoiding knock and optimizing fuel, but injector size and duty cycle will tell you where your power is...

The 60lb Siemens from Full Throttle Speed. I don't have my other notebook with me with all my PowerLogger files but duty cycle is about 60%. At the back end of the run, narrowband is about 790, wideband 10.9-11.0. No knock.


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What stall is the 10" PTC? You would probably be better off with a stock converter than the 10" PTC. I had one for a short period of time. Worst thing I ever did to the car. I ran 11.55 @ 119 with the stock converter, unopened longblock stock MAF, and 6266 aeound 28 psi for what its worth.

Edit: it was extraordinarily good air. Like -1800DA if I remember correctly.

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
 
What stall is the 10" PTC? You would probably be better off with a stock converter than the 10" PTC. I had one for a short period of time. Worst thing I ever did to the car. I ran 11.55 @ 119 with the stock converter, unopened longblock stock MAF, and 6266 aeound 28 psi for what its worth.

Edit: it was extraordinarily good air. Like -1800DA if I remember correctly.

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

2800. It's what Dust recommended when I purchased it. That was when I still had the stock block/heads/cam though. So you think it's slipping that much?


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2800. It's what Dust recommended when I purchased it. That was when I still had the stock block/heads/cam though. So you think it's slipping that much?


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Well mine was a 3200 so it was probably substantially worse. It was a tire roaster, but the car did not couple well

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
 
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