High boost question

[TheGovernment]

So I had all my mods in my sig put in this fall. I ran the car for a week or so and was having problems keeping the boost down. My car is stored for the winter and I was just there and may be taking it out for a trip down to the states soon. My problem is that, the boost will not go below 20psi, no matter how much I loosen the rod. I have a TT chip set for 18 psi, along with 60lbs injectors and the TE-44 turbo, 3" dp. everything was installed at once (also had the cat cut off). Even with the rod floppy loose, it will still creep up to almost 20psi, it just takes a lot longer to get there.
I'm going home this weekend to fiddle with it and was wondering what i should maybe look for.
I'll be getting alky this spring but want to try to get this figured out before I put anything new on again. Everything else seem to be working great. I couldn't mash it since I was getting slight knock, so I just didn't.

thanks in advance

 

[meanchicken]

Is your WG actuator a heavy duty or reguler type?
Have you checked for leaks (vac hoses, IC hoses, etc.)

Those plastic one way valves in your vacuum lines can also get leaky and behave like a boost leak. There is one at the EGR, an 3 way near the driver side firewall, and another one going to the gas vapor cannister. Pull them off...try to blow through them in the direction of vacuum...should blow...try to blow the other way...shouldn't blow...

 

[pacecarta]

Is your WG actuator a heavy duty or reguler type?
Have you checked for leaks (vac hoses, IC hoses, etc.)

Those plastic one way valves in your vacuum lines can also get leaky and behave like a boost leak. There is one at the EGR, an 3 way near the driver side firewall, and another one going to the gas vapor cannister. Pull them off...try to blow through them in the direction of vacuum...should blow...try to blow the other way...shouldn't blow...

wrong again the checks have no effect on the boost
a leak in the lines from the turbo to the wastgate can effect boost and cause it to be high by bleeding off air
run a hose direct from the turbo to the wastegate (tuner style) and see where that gets you
if it wont go lower or creeps up
try porting the hole larger to within 1/8" of the puck size and make sure that the puck arm moves freely , some stick when they get hot so you may need to check after a wot blast

 

[meanchicken]

wrong again the checks have no effect on the boost
a leak in the lines from the turbo to the wastgate can effect boost and cause it to be high by bleeding off air
run a hose direct from the turbo to the wastegate (tuner style) and see where that gets you
if it wont go lower or creeps up
try porting the hole larger to within 1/8" of the puck size and make sure that the puck arm moves freely , some stick when they get hot so you may need to check after a wot blast

pacecarta...you following me around post to post trying to be a wise ass at me....or does it just come naturally?
Get over yourself...

No....he didn't say he disconnected the rod...but I see you edited that part out of your statement along with the "read" snit.

From my personal experience...yes...leaky checks can behave like a boost leak....anything under manifold vacuum or pressure can....even having the boost line blow off your boost gauge can.

You're right that the lines closest to or on the turbo can have the greatest affect, but a leak down by your gas vapor cannister can also behave that way.

Also agree that if this is a boost creep issue rather than a high boost issue then the WG puck hole needs porting.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I would follow the advice of pacecarta.

 

[meanchicken]

Yes, I also agree on the WG puck hole needing to be ported.
...I also fully bow down to pacecarata's superior knowledge...

Guess I'm a tad grumpy from being stuck in China with a nasty head cold and people outside setting off firewarks all week long (it's the end of Chinese New Year) while I'm trying to sleep, so the condescending tone on two seperate posts...which normally wouldn't phase me....well....it ...it...it hurt my feeleings.:frown:
There...I said it...:redface:
My humble apologies for getting into a fighting mood...

...but...checks do behave like boost leaks when they go bad...air is going somewhere that it does not belong...

 

[Grumpy]

I'd leave it alone an get the Alky on it.. 20#s is a good place to start with the boost see how I make things simple :biggrin:

 

[just plain john]

Nicely fielded, Chicken. Well done.

 

[TheGovernment]

It's an HD one from Percision. The puck moves freely and doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it, that was one of the first things we checked when I found the problem. I can't go WOT since I get knock at higher boost but I will check it again after ripping around for a bit.
I wasn't sure an air leak could cause that but that will be the first thing I check.

It's funny Grumpy would say just get alky because that was my first reaction lol. I figure I'd like to fix whatevers wrong before I put something new on again.

Thanks for the advise guys!

 

[pacecarta]

well an hd wastegate is not what you want on a car that runs pump gas
its meant for when you want to run over 18psi and 18psi will only be possible if there is no additional boost bleeders

hooking it tuner style will result in the lowest boost you can get from that wastegate , if it still runs higher then youll need to port

i would look for a std wastegate and try that tuner and see what the lowest boost you can run is , if its creeps too high youll need to port , if its low then you can add a bleeder to increase the boost to safe levels

 

[TheGovernment]

You know, now that I think about it, I'm not sure what actuator I have on the car. I can't remember which ones on the car as I bought both at the same time. hummmmmmm....