Got $4000 to spend on Speed!
- Thread starter Spot1984
- Start date
supercrackerbox
Will wrench for beer
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2007
I wish we had a 1/4 mile track on this end of the state.
Pittsburghkid
Displacement Replacement.
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2009
Can't tell you what to buy without knowing what you've already got. List what your working with unless it's completely stock.
AlwaysWaven
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2010
not to hijack, is there a thread about the fuel pump hard wire?
The_Six
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2009
I would start with the basics:
Scan master
Power Logger
Wideband O2
Boost and fuel presser gauge
Adjustable fuel regulator
Hotwire kit and Walbro 340
60lb injectors / chip to match
Alky
Rear upper and lower control arms
Rear end girdle
Down pipe
I would also research the translator pro it gives you a lot of options for tuning and if you get it the same time as the chip, injectors, and the WB they will all work together.
Here are some good links for the hot wiring the fuel pump.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/193835-how-hot-wire-your-fuel-pump.html
http://www.installationinstructions.com/102028.pdf
Hot Wire Your Fuel Pump
Scan master
Power Logger
Wideband O2
Boost and fuel presser gauge
Adjustable fuel regulator
Hotwire kit and Walbro 340
60lb injectors / chip to match
Alky
Rear upper and lower control arms
Rear end girdle
Down pipe
I would also research the translator pro it gives you a lot of options for tuning and if you get it the same time as the chip, injectors, and the WB they will all work together.
Here are some good links for the hot wiring the fuel pump.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/193835-how-hot-wire-your-fuel-pump.html
http://www.installationinstructions.com/102028.pdf
Hot Wire Your Fuel Pump
C
coach
Guest
Everyone will tell you similar items. That is a given. A few who really want to go fast will tell a beginner to make sure the motor is solid. Compression test, oil change, air filter,tranny service,flush radiator, etc...After you have an idea of what your dealing with, then put your $$$ to use wisely. First thing would be new valve springs and take off the air box and put a K&N right on the end of the MAF. Make sure you do not have any air leaks on your flex hose leading up to the turbo.You dont want un-metered air getting in, throws off your tune. Get a SCANMASTER coming in the mail as we speak.
This is where I would stop with the engine and consider the chassis. You can add all the go-fast goodies you want to the car, but if your chassis cannot handle it, forget it, it is wasted $$$ and only good for conversation. These cars are the most fun in the first 60', so work on the chassis. I would get the body bushings, seat brace ( GNX style), and front connecting braces. You can change shocks if you like, but decide if you want ride comfort, or straight line performance. I would add a nice set of boxed trailing arms, lowers first, uppers if you have the $$$. These items will make most of the "sqeeks" and "rattles" go away. Air bags are good to add also.Now you have a pretty solid chassis that will respond well to your engine upgrades. The ULTIMATE upgrade is the HR parts rear sway bar, but it is big $$$...WELL WORTH IT, but $500.
Now you can get under the hood. Get an adjustable fuel regulator. Zip-tie all the vaccum lines. A fuel pump and Hot wire kit is where I would go next. Now your getting more air in and need to get more out. I went with a 3 inch downpipe next, not necessary, but I needed an exhaust, so I did the entire system. A wastegate actuator, for more boost, or if you get a downpipe, you could go external gate. I love mine. ALKY is the best bang for the buck you can add. It really makes these cars FUN, and is very simple. (Dont ever be afraid of anything for these cars. This forum is full of guys who will walk you step by step thru any mod you wish to make.) A boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge are my choices first. Opinions very. I have these 2 gauges directly in front of me, on top of my dash, in sight at all times. A 160 thermostat, new O2 sensor, plugs, wires are the basic tune-up items. Dont forget ZDDP in your oil. Once you decide what boost levels you want to go for and add ALKY, get a chip from Eric at Turbo Tweek and your ready.
That about does it for your $4000.00 bucks. Its the NEXT $4000 that gets really fun!!!LOL...TURBO, TRANNY, WHEELIE BARS...hahaha
Thanks
Coach
This is where I would stop with the engine and consider the chassis. You can add all the go-fast goodies you want to the car, but if your chassis cannot handle it, forget it, it is wasted $$$ and only good for conversation. These cars are the most fun in the first 60', so work on the chassis. I would get the body bushings, seat brace ( GNX style), and front connecting braces. You can change shocks if you like, but decide if you want ride comfort, or straight line performance. I would add a nice set of boxed trailing arms, lowers first, uppers if you have the $$$. These items will make most of the "sqeeks" and "rattles" go away. Air bags are good to add also.Now you have a pretty solid chassis that will respond well to your engine upgrades. The ULTIMATE upgrade is the HR parts rear sway bar, but it is big $$$...WELL WORTH IT, but $500.
Now you can get under the hood. Get an adjustable fuel regulator. Zip-tie all the vaccum lines. A fuel pump and Hot wire kit is where I would go next. Now your getting more air in and need to get more out. I went with a 3 inch downpipe next, not necessary, but I needed an exhaust, so I did the entire system. A wastegate actuator, for more boost, or if you get a downpipe, you could go external gate. I love mine. ALKY is the best bang for the buck you can add. It really makes these cars FUN, and is very simple. (Dont ever be afraid of anything for these cars. This forum is full of guys who will walk you step by step thru any mod you wish to make.) A boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge are my choices first. Opinions very. I have these 2 gauges directly in front of me, on top of my dash, in sight at all times. A 160 thermostat, new O2 sensor, plugs, wires are the basic tune-up items. Dont forget ZDDP in your oil. Once you decide what boost levels you want to go for and add ALKY, get a chip from Eric at Turbo Tweek and your ready.
That about does it for your $4000.00 bucks. Its the NEXT $4000 that gets really fun!!!LOL...TURBO, TRANNY, WHEELIE BARS...hahaha
Thanks
Coach
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
Find a good turbo regal buddy, JohnPoggii is in nebraska. He is really good and hits the track ALOT.
Pm him.
You should really get some upgrades before hitting the track, 14.2 will easily get you down to 12.8 with some simple mods.
Do the mods so the engine does not get damaged from detonation on cheap pump gas.
BW
Pm him.
You should really get some upgrades before hitting the track, 14.2 will easily get you down to 12.8 with some simple mods.
Do the mods so the engine does not get damaged from detonation on cheap pump gas.
BW
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
If you pick the right parts and dont go overboard, the stock turbo ported will get you into the 11s.
Ive personally seen the stock downpipe run mid 11s, some have been faster.
A friend of mine went 11.3 with a stock turbo elbow and 3 inch downpipe with intercooler , turbo, and injectors.
Please find someone who is good with these cars, that way you do not have to buy parts 2-3 times.
If you plan to go faster, 009 42.5 injectors can get you deep into the 11s with a meth kit with a small turbo upgrade, i would keep the setup simple and daily driver friendly.
Before you buy parts, figure out what turbo, injectors, and if you decide to run a meth kit. Find out what the entire package you want and stick to it.
That way your not buying more parts than whats needed.
BW
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
How long have you owned it?
BW
BW
C
coach
Guest
This is what I would do. Call Kirbans and get the front braces, GNX seat brace, missing bushings, GNX bushings, and K&N air filter coming in the mail. Call Full Throttle and get a SCANMASTER and Comp 980 valve springs, and air bags too. After you get all that on, post for the next step. Dont put the cart in front of the horse. A downpipe isnt needed until the $$$ is spent on these items, because it isnt going to do you any good without these. This is my opinion only, but no one else has disagreed with me yet, so they must be thinkin the same.
Thanks
Coach
PM me if you need.
Thanks
Coach
PM me if you need.
First thing I would do
Assuming it has not been done and you can tell by feeling of them, is replace ALL the vacumn (emission) hoses under the hood. If original your fingers will come away BLACK. As coach suggested-very small cable ties work well to insure they stay on. This is where I and some others disagree but IMO the hoses need to be the EXACT same size and length --especially the ones conected to the turbo. Go slow and have fun.
Assuming it has not been done and you can tell by feeling of them, is replace ALL the vacumn (emission) hoses under the hood. If original your fingers will come away BLACK. As coach suggested-very small cable ties work well to insure they stay on. This is where I and some others disagree but IMO the hoses need to be the EXACT same size and length --especially the ones conected to the turbo. Go slow and have fun.
Monte231SS
Predator seeking its prey
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
If it has a stock cat convertor, find yourself a straight pipe or dump to replace it. I remember my stocker GN awakening big time after removing the cat.
A fuel pump and a scan tool are a must before going faster. Take your time/do lots of research and feel free to ask questions. Your car will go low twelves/high elevens with very little and you'll still have some cash in your pocket.
A fuel pump and a scan tool are a must before going faster. Take your time/do lots of research and feel free to ask questions. Your car will go low twelves/high elevens with very little and you'll still have some cash in your pocket.- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
I forgot about the hoses, Lee brings up a good idea. If any of those hoses blow off the wastegate, you will immediately hit 30PSI and blow the engine up.
You need to make sure those hoses are redone with 7/32 silicone hose. There will be a fitting that is specific the way it goes on.
Please post back on this thread, there are alot of very helpful guys on this thread that are willing to help you out. If you start more threads, most likely we will not catch them.
Take it easy
BW
You need to make sure those hoses are redone with 7/32 silicone hose. There will be a fitting that is specific the way it goes on.
Please post back on this thread, there are alot of very helpful guys on this thread that are willing to help you out. If you start more threads, most likely we will not catch them.
Take it easy
BW
