GN and bov's???

I had no noticable problems without BOV .I tigged BOV on the up pipe right after the inntercooler hose vented to attmosphere and have the daul nozzel alky from Razor closer to the 70mm TB and Hat. Im also running cass stretched stock location,it ran great until the Turbo would deside to take a dump 1000miles or less.This was my experiance with TE-67 and Limit.I cant wait to see the differance between old school and High Tech.
 
I had no noticable problems without BOV .I tigged BOV on the up pipe right after the inntercooler hose vented to attmosphere and have the daul nozzel alky from Razor closer to the 70mm TB and Hat. Im also running cass stretched stock location,it ran great until the Turbo would deside to take a dump 1000miles or less.This was my experiance with TE-67 and Limit.I cant wait to see the differance between old school and High Tech.

That's wild, I can't believe the bad luck you've had. What boost levels were you running?
 
18#,I have turbo saver,braided steel turbo oil lines ,change oil way before it needs it,and unplug computer to make sure turbo and engine has oil.
 
I agree with Turbo Nasty ,especially with TE-67 (biggest of the small shaft turbos). The compressed air has no where to go,so it has to force its way back threw the turbo .This puts a lot of strain on the small JB ending in failure.The only guy that told me the reason ,runs the same turbo on a race bike.The picture is the combo Im putting together now.
 
I think they help out more on a manuel car too..When you shift you let your foot off the gas and the throttle plate closes with nowhere for all that boost to go. So the vacuum will pull the BOV open and relieve pressure.

When I use to race a stick shift car I never took my foot of the gas.....powershifted the shit out of those damn mustangs. I busted a few teeth here and there but it was under warranty;) Why the hell would you take your foot off the gas when racing anything, especially a stick...you dont with an auto, why do it with a manual. We use to beat the piss out of every stick shift car we would test drive. I thought the salesman was gonna shit his pants(i think he actually did) on a test ride in a 1988 saleen mustang back in the day. Oh.... the good ole days :D

Back to the blow of valve. I think im gonna get one for the T. Its a sin, but Im gonna attach it to the side of my pte slic to keep it out of direct eye site. I want to keep that stealthy stock look the best I can. I just dont know which one would be best for where I want to locate mine. I think the tial 50mm would be good but not exactly sure. Anyone have a suggestion based on what they have used or done in the same fashion that Im looking to do?

Dave
 
I was having a chat with a co-worker who owns an Evo on how the TR's didn't come with BOV's and how some TR owners swear by not having them. In his words "the back pressure created by the TB slamming shut while the turbo is spinning full force...that's not good on the turbo, perhaps that's why your turbo seals are bad".
Maybe so....I'll probably end up getting a BOV.
 
Having a bov is A good idea, it helped me in my application and I recommend one to anyone that has an upgraded turbo. When I rebuilt my motor, I upgraded to a larger turbo (TA-61) and I was having a lot of turbo surge when I let off the gas. I hated that noise, it sounded like something was wrong. I added the new tial 50mm bov and it solved my problem. No more turbo surge and it looks kind of cool on the engine. I know most people hate the "swoosh" noise, but it sounds much better than turbo surge. Plus the tial bov opens and reacts so fast, you barely even notice it (It doesnt sound as loud as a manual tuner car) I think you can get a recirculating bov and them u will not have any "swoosh" if desired.
I had a lot of problems getting the correct spring combo, but once that was solved, I have loved it every since then. Here is where I made some comments on a previous bov thread. You can glance to the thread also, maybe there is more info that will interest you.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/install-for-those-with-bovs.231304/#post-3009824. (thread #18)
 
extra insurance against early turbo failure. if your worried about it sounding like a ricer, get a quiet recirculating one which is the correct way of plumbing it anyway though some do not.
if you like doing light to light pulls on the street it makse sense.
 
Fast4Ward said:
extra insurance against early turbo failure.

I'd like to know who has actually worn one out and how many miles were on it. I have 45k on a te44 always over 20psi and no shaft play, haha, whatsoever with no bov.
 
IIRC, BOV's were designed to help cars with manual transmissions keep the turbo spooled between shifts. GN's with auto trans do
not have this problem.
This my friend is a very true statement, but with that said, running a BOV on a turbo buick specially if your running anything over 20psi on a big turbo could save your turbo in the long run, if you do a WOT pass at 22psi all that boost that the turbo is creating is going past the blade and going into the motor, once you let off the throttle the turbo still making boost as it is spinning at several thousand RPM's, the air between the turbo and now close blade will have to go somewhere and where it goes is backwards hitting the blade quite hard and this can cause the shaft to vibrate resulting in early turbo seals or perhaps bearing failure, i run one in my car for xtra insurance.. :)
 
Dead head: a situation that occurs when the pump's discharge is closed either due to a blocage in the line or an inadvertently closed valve. At this point, the pump will go to it's maximum shut-off head, the fluid will be recirculated within the pump resulting in overheating and possible damage. By definition, we are deadheading the turbo when the throttlebody closes rapidly..... we didn't turn the compressor off prior to that, it is spinning at up to 120k RPM until we let off..... then it slows down. Although this also typically is talked about with an incompressible fluid, this same principle still applies.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but Isn't the overheating rate different between water and air considering one uses conduction and the other used convection therefor making the potential overheating for air far less?

D
 
TNTSNBS said:
This my friend is a very true statement, but with that said, running a BOV on a turbo buick specially if your running anything over 20psi on a big turbo could save your turbo in the long run, if you do a WOT pass at 22psi all that boost that the turbo is creating is going past the blade and going into the motor, once you let off the throttle the turbo still making boost as it is spinning at several thousand RPM's, the air between the turbo and now close blade will have to go somewhere and where it goes is backwards hitting the blade quite hard and this can cause the shaft to vibrate resulting in early turbo seals or perhaps bearing failure, i run one in my car for xtra insurance.. :)

I'd still like to hear from anyone with any turbo that actually wore one out without a bov before even 50k miles.
 
I'd still like to hear from anyone with any turbo that actually wore one out without a bov before even 50k miles.
Have seen plenty myself, i am just saying that a BOV is good insurance to keep your turbo running longer without having the bearings or seals take a beating everything you let off a high boost pass..
 
No downsides to it...other than grouchyiveownedmybuicksincenew guys saying u dont need it lol
 
Ya' know how some TV shows and such create lists of banned words and phrases? I propose we create a list of banned topics - let's start with, "do I need to install a BOV?"

The discussions, points, and counterpoints haven't changed in the ten+ years I've been on this board. In the future, if somebody starts this thread, let's just tell them to do a search. It will take them days to read through the archives on this topic! Unless somebody actually goes out and does a scientific study on this, I don't think any other useful comments can be made.

One man's opinion...

Mike
Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible using Turbo Buick
 
... if you do a WOT pass at 22psi all that boost that the turbo is creating is going past the blade and going into the motor, once you let off the throttle the turbo still making boost as it is spinning at several thousand RPM's, the air between the turbo and now close blade will have to go somewhere and where it goes is backwards hitting the blade quite hard and this can cause the shaft to vibrate resulting in early turbo seals or perhaps bearing failure...

That might have something to do with why I have a possible turbo seal going bad.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but Isn't the overheating rate different between water and air considering one uses conduction and the other used convection therefor making the potential overheating for air far less?

D

You forgot water can be heated up by Radiation, also.
 
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