getting ready to pull engine?

Doesn't anyone use a plenum strap? One of the best tools i ever bought.
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Much more easy to pull the trans with the motor but to each is own.
 
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Well I got it out had everything unhooked. One thing that made it easier didn't have to remove my hood I just unbolted the shocks on the hood and it let me raise the good up more enough to get the engine out. Now I have to send it to get rebuilt if I don't find soon
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didn't GM leave any factory lifting hooks on these engines like they did on everything else?

regarding using a plate bolted to the intake manifold in place of the plenum: i've taken out dozens of cast iron V8 engines using lifting plates that bolt in place of the carburetor with 4 5/16" bolts.. both aluminum and cast iron intakes, and with and without the transmissions attached.. and i've never once been worried about it falling... each bolt is strong enough to lift the entire car off the ground, and there are 4 bolts.. the heaviest motor/trans combo i lifted with my carb plate was a completely dressed 454 and TH400 in a 74 Suburban that i was scrapping out- i just cut the exhaust right after the manifolds and the PS lines and coolant hoses with my sawzall and clipped any wires and ground straps and lifted the whole works out using only that Chinese lift plate that i paid $8 for and i didn't die..

i wish i had taken a pic of the time i lifted the whole front end of my 74 Monte Carlo off the ground with that same lift plate bolted to a Weiand aluminum intake manifold and left it sitting with the wheels a foot off the ground for about an hour just to see what would happen...
 
didn't GM leave any factory lifting hooks on these engines like they did on everything else?

There's a loop on the back of the block that no lifting hook I've ever seen will fit in, and the front of the intake manifold has a bolt on loop. ( I've been storing mine on the porch railing the last couple years)
 
Good job Josh, a few more times you will have this procedure down well. ;)

This AM at 6:30 I started pulling an engine from a customer's GN to beat the 100+ degree heat today.

Using a lift make this a LOT easier as the engine was delivered to the machine shop and I was having breakfast at 9:30! :)

Of course having done this a few hundred times also provides a simple pattern and routine to follow. The "special" tool for removing the engine is a short chain and 2 bolts in the right place.
 
I use a chain on the exh manifolds. Just less stuff to take off the motor.

I always pull the hood. Takes 5 min with the wife and just gives you more light and room to work. I set it on the roof of the car.
One thing I do is wait on the head grounds and starter wires until I have the motor about a foot out of the car, then pull those from the top.
Same going back in.

..
 
well i purchased another engine a complete longblock http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/built-engine-fresh-going-ls3-turbo.413717/ this one so im going to be selling my engine but have no clue what its worth just want to get an opinion on what to ask for it if i should sell it whole or part it out its complete from oil pan to intake only thing im using is the upper plenum. Im going to sell my turbo too its a limit engineering gt70 to big for me They have almost 5k miles on them any ideas what its worth rather sell it cheaper just want to get some money back from the new engine
 
Josh, Let me say upfront that I'm not busting your balls or anything. With that out of the way, when you bought this car and listed the mods and times me and another guy suggested driving the car as is. It appears we were the only two guys you didn't listen to. A lot of guys were throwing ideas for everything you needed to change. If I remember right your car ran 11.20's right? Seemed like a pretty good damn set up even if it had some odd ball shit on it. After changing a bunch of stuff you need a new engine. My opinion, once you get the new engine in keep the boost low, run 93 octane and take things slower this time. Forget the alky for now until you learn how to tune it on 93. Find someone local to help get the basics nailed down. Inflection is hard to convey in written text. I'm not being an ass or anything. You need to learn a lot more about how these car work before you try to crank it up and lean on it. Just my .02, I hope you get things worked out. You have a real nice looking car.
 
Josh, Let me say upfront that I'm not busting your balls or anything. With that out of the way, when you bought this car and listed the mods and times me and another guy suggested driving the car as is. It appears we were the only two guys you didn't listen to. A lot of guys were throwing ideas for everything you needed to change. If I remember right your car ran 11.20's right? Seemed like a pretty good damn set up even if it had some odd ball shit on it. After changing a bunch of stuff you need a new engine. My opinion, once you get the new engine in keep the boost low, run 93 octane and take things slower this time. Forget the alky for now until you learn how to tune it on 93. Find someone local to help get the basics nailed down. Inflection is hard to convey in written text. I'm not being an ass or anything. You need to learn a lot more about how these car work before you try to crank it up and lean on it. Just my .02, I hope you get things worked out. You have a real nice looking car.
Yeah I wish I would of now I got more into then I should have. I've never ran 11.2 with the car that's what the previous owner ran. I took it the track once 1/8th mile didn't do to hot wouldn't build boost at the line only made 2 passes before the powersteering line went and had to leave only did a 8.58 with a 2. Something 60ft. So I changed thr injectors and chip and added alky but never really drove it wouldn't build boost in first gear at all and slow spool up after that. That's why I bought the powerlogger so I could record it and have guys on here look at it. Only did a couple logs before the problem. I wish I could find some one around here to help tune but have no one around that knows anything about the cars that I've found. think I have the only turbo buick here. I'd like to find some local help but no luck so far. I'm defenitelly a little paranoid about putting in the new engine about break in and priming and setting the timing right. Can't afford to buy another one. I know I can hook everything up cause I took my time pulling the engine and marked everything. I might pull my tranny out and bolt it to the engine cause I'm not sure how hard I will have to fight the bell housing bolts. I appreciate all the help from everyone. I plan on taking grief from people I have been for buying the car since I sold my chevelle to buy it. But I've always like the cars and still do and want to prove every one wrong around here for thinking I'm crazy for selling my chevelle to get this.
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Ok I'm in the process of installing my new engine and I can't seem to get the engine to go back far enough seems my engine hoist doesn't extend far enough. Has anyone had this problem or know any thing that could help out?


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Mine does that too. Make sure to put a towel between the jack and the bumper so you don't tear up the rubber strip.

Other than that, it's precision shove the engine time.
 
Well got the engine in the car and on the new motor mounts took a little moving around and jacking up on the oil pan but got the hr motor mounts to line up and everything bolted back underneath the car. Got ignition and turbo and downpipe bolted up was just waiting on my turbo oil return line that I order from tr custom parts since cracked mine bending it to much. Think I should only have a few hours left to get it going. I'm at work now so next week I'll hopefully have it going. Just plugs and intercooler to put back in along with new plugs. Thinking about ordering a new chip since I switched the turbo and it has a different cam and different headers


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