fluttering noise and lots of knock after I drop it off with a shop?

[badboy86gn2]

Thats FUC_IN BULL ****

I dont care what anyone on this or any other board says one of those guys strait out took it out and romped on it

When i had my tranny rebuilt awhile back here locally (that was one the worst fights but its held so far) the owner was the only one that drove it as i was later told there was a line to see what a GN can do

As for motors blowing and braking well thats possible but ive NEVER seen one blow if you watch(educated) the gagues ive myself have laid plenty on my car with 25psi and nothing but im always watching everything like a hawk

these motors are close to bulletproof if everything is in order all i can say is JASON CRAMER and others

Johnny Montoya

 

[zam70]

Originally posted by badboy86gn2
As for motors blowing and braking well thats possible but ive NEVER seen one blow if you watch(educated) the gagues ive myself have laid plenty on my car with 25psi and nothing but im always watching everything like a hawk
these motors are close to bulletproof if everything is in order all i can say is JASON CRAMER and others
Johnny Montoya

nice to know our engines never need rebuilt...

If you guys were ever involved in the management side of the Auto service industry, you'd understand why I have the opinion I do. Everyone always thinks their car is perfect and any flaw it has is due to the service shop...people are always trying to rip us off and get something for free - it's never ending

Case in point:
I personally drove a car 40 feet at idle from the parking lot into the shop for a wash, after the wash, the car would not go into reverse (or any gear) and was puking tranny fluid...Was this my shops fault? What did I do to break the tranny?

BlackBeauty, You never stated the details on the engine (mods, mileage, state of tune etc...) I know it's not the point but it could have some influence.
If you feel the shop is at fault, have a tear down done and get a statement on the condition of the engine and cause of failure then, take it to court. That'll be your best bet.
Good luck!

 

[BlackBeauty]

I see this thread is getting many opinions now. Zam, I understand where you come from. I install car audio and electronics, and we often get people who come in for a simple radio, and after we install the radio with plug-n-play harnesses, they come back saying now their dash lights don't work or something to that extent. And we in the shop know it's not related whatsoever, but the customer is convinced. That's why I even felt like a jerk going back to the tire place to bring this issue up.
When I did go back, the manager was appearing to blame me for the damage... "So you race this car, riiiight?" I explained to him that I hardly race, and it's ok for me to race my car, but it's NOT ok for someone else to. There are certain steps that must be taken before flooring the car. I have alcohol injection, which must be manually primed so there is alky in the line ready to spray. I also have a very restrictive exhaust unless the cutout is open... when the car is WOT with the exhaust closed, it acts funny. People wouldn't know to do these things, no one has EVER driven my car on the road besides this guy (with the exception of other techs driving within their parking lots).
The manager sent in the claim for me, I think he convinced the guy in the claims department that my car was used for racing, I had to tell him it's my daily driven vehicle. As far as modifications, most of what I have is fuel mods, exhaust, and boost gauge, knock guage, ScanMaster. I also have a TE-44 (which an inspector wouldn't even notice) and alcohol injection. So the mods basically help me stay on top of things, supply more fuel, and bump up the octane. If not used correctly, I could see a problem.
The only shred of proof that I have that anything harmful was done was after the 5-min. test drive was performed, the car sat parked for 10 minutes while I paid inside. I got into the car, everytime I start the car I adjust the ScanMaster to display coolant temp, usually so I can tell when the car has warmed up. It was already at 190°, this is with a 160° t-stat. I noticed that was a little on the high side. The car had sat for hours before the road test. When I went back to the shop, I asked the tech if he had boosted at all, and he said no, cause he was scared of the car. "It was fast just leaving the parking lot." I told him these cars are slow unless you boost.

 

[snodgrass]

That situation really sucks! What probably happened is that the tech took the car out and wanted to see what it would do. Not knowing that a turbo motor likes to be loaded so it is forced to get the car moving with torque, he probably dropped the shifter down in first and romped on it up to six grand before he got a chance to shift it (as if it was a small block chevy), and that was the end of your rod bearings. I feel bad for you, and hope you will be compensated for it. I think you're going to have to put up quite a fuss to get any satisfaction though because it's almost impossible to prove one way or the other what the cause was. I really wish you luck with it. At least this can be a lesson to all those that read this to limit the performance potential of their cars before letting anyone else get behind the wheel.
---Jeff

 

[badboy86gn2]

Well lets see the car ran and performed before the work was done.... and right after it threw a rod and this happed coinsidence RIGHT.......

I dont for one minute believe this guy who did the work accidentally took it up the road trying to break the sound barrier

Im very sorry this happend to you and there are plenty out there that just dont respect other peoples property this should come out of this guys pocket but i dont think it will

Johnny

good luck and
What comes around gose around

 

[wlaukaitis]

this is what it sounds like when the doves cry

Well, When I got my car about a year ago, unbeknownst to me, the turbo was toasted (I have pics). When I would give it a quick goose of the throttle in park, it would almost sound like a Dove, kind of like a fluttering. When I grew the set to take the thing apart, the turbine side was much worse than the compressor side. I would say about 1/4 inch total play (1/8 to each side past center) So I would venture to say that even though the compressor side may look good, a true indicator (in my opinion) would be a look-see at the turbine side. That is where all the heat is and would certainly go first. What's my point? I would have a closer look at your turbo. I would rather see you spend $600 vs. $6000.

I think they romped on it.

I also think a rod knock is very distictive and hard to mistake for something else although stranger things have happened. I don't want to knock the TR shop (no pun intended) but I would try to sell you an engine too. I also don't want to knock you (again no pun here) for taking your car to a shop but I would watch ANYONE dealing with my car like a F'n hawk.

Ther is a dude down the street that thought he blew his motor in his MCSS, Everything was ok, oil press, power etc. I told him to check everything, flexplate, motor mounts etc. Turned out to be a loose harmonic balancer. He wanted to pull the motor and rebuild it, which I think he is still going to do. I would replace the bolt with the correct one and change the front seal. If it blows then, pull the motor, he was going to do it anyway.

Keep poking around and check the turbo.