Engine gets hot sometimes

[michael evans]

Will try a re-torque to see before I pull the engine .

How often is a re-torque is it required with Cosmetics ?

Besides I need to adjust the rockers anyway.

 

[michael evans]

Also, does it have a quality radiator cap? No name on cap means poor.

Good new cap.

 

[mikestertwo]

Not my first rodeo with a boosted buick (just the V6).
I used Cometic gaskets.

That may be the problem. If the prep isn't exactly right with Cometic gaskets they will leak.

 

[earlbrown]

What machining to the deck and heads did you do prior to installing the Cometics?

 

[michael evans]

What machining to the deck and heads did you do prior to installing the Cometics?

It had Cometics on it when one let go so I took the heads off and just replaced then both.

I did talk to a few people before I put them on and the told me it needed an AR2 ? finish or better.

I outlined all the water passages on both sides of the gasket like recommended by someone on this board.

Over the winter since it is put up, I will retorque the heads with my new torque wrench and add the GM tablets like mentioned before.

I guess it is totally different than my Tomahawk with a procharger.

 

[earlbrown]

So your deck surface has never been machined?

 

[michael evans]

Not by me.

It was by Craig Godfrey in 2007 /08 ? when the engine was first built.

 

[TurboBuRick]

There are a lot of opinions on how to install cometic head gaskets. I have always followed manufacturers recommended procedure and have had good luck with it. When installed dry they really don't need a re torque. If you use any kind of sealant it can interfere with getting a good even clamp on the gasket. In this case it may need re torque.
Try a re torque without loosening. If the nuts move, you may get lucky. If they don't move, you may find yourself redoing head gaskets.

Good luck and keep us posted. I be curious if nuts move.

 

[Jerryl]

. . . . . . Good luck and keep us posted. I be curious if nuts move.

Be interesting to see if ARP studs were used.

 

[ttypewhite]

It had Cometics on it when one let go so I took the heads off and just replaced then both.

I did talk to a few people before I put them on and the told me it needed an AR2 ? finish or better.

I outlined all the water passages on both sides of the gasket like recommended by someone on this board.

Over the winter since it is put up, I will retorque the heads with my new torque wrench and add the GM tablets like mentioned before.

I guess it is totally different than my Tomahawk with a procharger.

If this was my situation, the last thing I would do is put those pills in my rad. That does more harm then good. Coats your rad , motor and heater core with sludge. I did it once in the past and when I tore it apart I swore never to do that again. It ruined my rad and affected the heat I was getting inside the car. Bandaid fixes are not the answer. Retorque or replace the head gaskets imo.

 

[whitehot1]

Winter is here so i would pull the engine and have the heads checked and or resurfaced if needed and replace the head gaskets. Do it right and forget all about the over heating / loss of water problem.

I like and use the Fel-Pro 9441 pt head gaskets. The set on there now are 8 years old and never an issue with a pte 67 turbo at 21lbs boost. I'm not as aggressive as some people but i like to drive and enjoy my car which means keeping the head gaskets where they belong. lol

Here is a thread that may interest you.

https://www.turbobuick.com/threads/who-has-the-best-head-gasket.430396/#post-3579652

 

[michael evans]

If this was my situation, the last thing I would do is put those pills in my rad. That does more harm then good. Coats your rad , motor and heater core with sludge. I did it once in the past and when I tore it apart I swore never to do that again. It ruined my rad and affected the heat I was getting inside the car. Bandaid fixes are not the answer. Retorque or replace the head gaskets imo.

That is the plan to first try to re-torque to see if that stops the leak. If the heads have to come off, then the engine will come out. I did them both the the engine in place and I will never do that again.

 

[michael evans]

Winter is here so i would pull the engine and have the heads checked and or resurfaced if needed and replace the head gaskets. Do it right and forget all about the over heating / loss of water problem.

I like and use the Fel-Pro 9441 pt head gaskets. The set on there now are 8 years old and never an issue with a pte 67 turbo at 21lbs boost. I'm not as aggressive as some people but i like to drive and enjoy my car which means keeping the head gaskets where they belong. lol

Here is a thread that may interest you.

https://www.turbobuick.com/threads/who-has-the-best-head-gasket.430396/#post-3579652

I am thinking if I pull the engine now I do away with the 109 block and upgrade to 14-bolt heads and block.

 

[michael evans]

When installed dry they really don't need a re torque. If you use any kind of sealant it can interfere with getting a good even clamp on the gasket. In this case it may need re torque.
Try a re torque without loosening. If the nuts move, you may get lucky. If they don't move, you may find yourself redoing head gaskets.

Good luck and keep us posted. I be curious if nuts move.

Over the winter I will do this.

I was wondering how much water pressure does the water pump impose when it is spinning at highway speed ? Does it increase with engine speed ?

Would an electric water pump stay constant ?