I would think that even with a kit that's designed to minimize bump steer, it cannot be completely eliminated. I'm just trying to figure out what an exceptable range of toe-in gain might be for a car used for 8 second quarter mile runs. Paricularly negative toe-in gain during hard braking.The higher the caster the bump steer increases, if I remember right Donnie. You may want to check because it's been a while since I looked at it. There are kits that will reduce the bump steer though so you may want to look into them.
I'm running stiff wall slicks with tubes, so I'm probably more stable than some may think. I will experiment with more pressure though. That was already suggested to me and is planned.Toe out is bad in any form.A double adjustable front shock
can help alot with bump steer with some track tuning.
I hate shim pack arms on the uppers like TRZ.I like pole position arms
easy adjustment no shims greasable bronze upper bushing.I do like
the limiter adj on the TRZ arm simple and effective.If the chassis is set set up right a very small wheelie and no bump steer!My bigger concern
with the g body is aerodynamics over 135 mph that added to a 10 psi slick makes it down right dangerous thats why most people are moving to
raidials.
I'm running stiff wall slicks with tubes, so I'm probably more stable than some may think. I will experiment with more pressure though. That was already suggested to me and is planned.
Very good. That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Time to reset my toe-in!Toe out under braking is not a problem missed that post.
I align passenger cars with alot of overall toe out all
the time they dont feel unstable but thats at hyway speeds.
With the extra positive caster it will calm down the
wander from the toe out.So the increase in caster in the dive helps out
as well.I think the bumper in your application will work well.
Are you referring to the front spoiler?I ran the stiff slicks as well and was amazed how small spoiler changes on the vehicle changed the overall stability.I feel i could benefit from more
rear down force.i would love to here from the fast guys on this one.
On the subject of suspension travel limiting. The bolts, chains and straps have got to shock the suspension when they come into play. Is that a good thing?
What I've done was bolted in an extension of the pad on the frame where the stock bumper of the upper A-arm hits. Presently, it is built up high enough that there is very little clearance between it and the stock rubber bumper. As the suspension rises, the bumper makes contact and begins to compress. The point where the bumper stops compressing is at 2" of suspension rise.
The bumper is a variable rate spring by design and helps avoid the suspension shock at full rise.
3/4" would be about 1.5" rise travel.I know todd at TRZ says to start at 3/4 of an inch gap on the bolt style arms.
I dont know if shocking the suspension is an issue, but it will be hard to adjust your system for differant track conditions during qualifing