crazy blm situation

mattsTurboT

New Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
hey guys im getting aheadache with this problem... let me explain

turn car on
blms good till rpms start to even out in park then they climb to 148-160.
throw it in drive and give it some gas and blms drop from 140-160 to around 110-120..
then cruising on the highway if i let of the gas blms will sometimes go as low as 96-110. but as i start to ease back into the gas it starts to climb up to the mid 120s.
then when am braking and just about stop blms shoot up to 145-160..

ok, many new vaccum lines. all that were bad were replaced.
new pcv a month ago..
just replaced driver side header today which did not help ONE bit!!
i know valve cover gaskets and intake valley pan is leaking. could this be a cause.
also i can smell the car is running rich.
i replaced egr solenoid because one of the nipple was broken off and was duct taped for a while by the previuos owner.(ive only owned for a month)
the egr is a used one but was in good shape.. dont know about internally though.
injectors off a 50k mile gn were put on just before sold to me. along with o2 sensor.fuel pressure has been played with to try to fix blms but didnt do a thing.
PLEASE REPOND.. i cant afford to have the head gaskets blow or something like that this is my daily driver.
????????



1987 charcoal turbo t. 153,000 miles. afpr,fuel psi gauge,scanmaster,casper fan control,walbro 340 with hotwire,RA 93 street chip.peglegger with 275/60/15 bfg radial t/a's
 
As I understand it the blms are going to change a lot while driving, but if you are at 160 at idle, something is wrong. Intake gaskets are common culprits, as are the check valves in the vacum system. I would check all of those first. The o2 sensor is used? If so I would be suspect, check the mv on that as well. Don't know if this helps you much, but tried.:)
 
hey

yeh i checked and replaced check valves. i dont know about the upper intake leaking air. but i know the valve cover gaskets and lower intake gasket is leaking oil and coolant. i need to check the fuel canister solenioid and the egr solenoid that i put on there.
the 02 sensor is new sorry bout the confusion.

please respond with further thoughts
 
Chances are the intake is your problem. If its leaking coolant, its probably leaking air. Fortunatley they are not that hard to replace, and having the intake off should make it easier to get the pass side valve cover off. ( They can be tight little buggers!)
 
Originally posted by mattsTurboT
hey guys im getting aheadache with this problem... let me explain

turn car on
blms good till rpms start to even out in park then they climb to 148-160.
throw it in drive and give it some gas and blms drop from 140-160 to around 110-120..
then cruising on the highway if i let of the gas blms will sometimes go as low as 96-110. but as i start to ease back into the gas it starts to climb up to the mid 120s.
then when am braking and just about stop blms shoot up to 145-160..

ok, many new vaccum lines. all that were bad were replaced.
new pcv a month ago..
just replaced driver side header today which did not help ONE bit!!
i know valve cover gaskets and intake valley pan is leaking. could this be a cause.
also i can smell the car is running rich.
i replaced egr solenoid because one of the nipple was broken off and was duct taped for a while by the previuos owner.(ive only owned for a month)
the egr is a used one but was in good shape.. dont know about internally though.
injectors off a 50k mile gn were put on just before sold to me. along with o2 sensor.fuel pressure has been played with to try to fix blms but didnt do a thing.
PLEASE REPOND.. i cant afford to have the head gaskets blow or something like that this is my daily driver.
????????



1987 charcoal turbo t. 153,000 miles. afpr,fuel psi gauge,scanmaster,casper fan control,walbro 340 with hotwire,RA 93 street chip.peglegger with 275/60/15 bfg radial t/a's

I notice you're running a Scanmaster, so you are only able to see one BLM cell at a time.

IMPORTANT NOTE: There are 16 BLM cells in a normal chip configuration. All of these driving conditions you mentioned above are going to be accessing at least 12 of those cells during changing conditions (at least three cells are never used). That's why you see the numbers changing so fast (they normally dont change very fast at all) because it's jumping into and out of different cells.

Just about everything sounds pretty normal for the average chip. You must also remember to never try and diagnose a possible BLM problem by just starting the car up and letting it idle up to normal operating temps.

Take the car out and drive around the surface streets for 5 miles or so, lots of stop and go, etc. Then and only then will the idle BLM numbers be somewhat valid (and all the others for that matter). If after all that, your idle cell still hovers in the 160 range, then you might have to start wondering why.

You shouldn't really worry about any of the cells unless they are at the bottom or top of their limits.
 
read this thread and see if it helps Razor has some pretty good stuff to say in it. High BLM #'s after New Injectors/PTE Chip/Adj Fuel Reg
 
The give away is the fact your car smells really rich.

blm post

This may help a little.

But TurboDave, a bad vacuum distribution block gasket leaking air will raise the BLM's up quite a bit, and may not peg the numbers. Just like when you pull the vacuum hose off the FPR, the BLM's raise but not peg. So an understanding how the FP and BLM's interchange probably is more golden than anything else.

In other words if your raise your fuel pressure a little, the blm's should come down, and vice versa.. if they dont, this would probably be a better indicator as to an issue.

I have personally seen BLM's drop over 10 points with a simple PCV valve change.

Just my personal experience.

HTH
 
Originally posted by Razor
The give away is the fact your car smells really rich.

blm post

This may help a little.

But TurboDave, a bad vacuum distribution block gasket leaking air will raise the BLM's up quite a bit, and may not peg the numbers. Just like when you pull the vacuum hose off the FPR, the BLM's raise but not peg. So an understanding how the FP and BLM's interchange probably is more golden than anything else.

In other words if your raise your fuel pressure a little, the blm's should come down, and vice versa.. if they dont, this would probably be a better indicator as to an issue.

I have personally seen BLM's drop over 10 points with a simple PCV valve change.

Just my personal experience.

HTH


I have no disagreements what-so-ever. I guess my main points were that he sees lot's of changing BLM values because the scanmaster is jumping between cells, instead of being able to see them all at once like on Direct Scan.

And just starting the car up and letting warm up while monitoring idle BLM's isn't going to be very realistic. Give the car a drive around and then check all the cells.
If there's still a high one, then yes, there's a problem to sort out.
 
;) ;)

One more thing to add, for clarification.

When checking the BLM,s one must be sure what cell is being read on the scanmaster. At idle, it can bounce between two cells.

You hit the gas.. it will bounce out of those two cells. So for ease, only pay attention to the idle cells after the car has been warmed up and driven. While idling
 
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