Cranks but won't start

During my ordeal, i always had power to the p pin just none to the m pin. Once i put the fuse back in the ccc1 in the panel i got power to both pins and that solved my problem. Just took me five days to figure out in fuse stuck in one side in the fuse box wasnt cutting it. Keep after it untill you get power to those pins before you start buying new ignition parts as you will probably be wasting your money on module and coil packs and cam and crank sensors.
 
With the key on you should have power to both sides where you plug in fuse, and power to both sides when you have fuse plugged in. Without fuse plugged in and power to only one side in fusebox leads me to believe you have a problem in the fuse box itself.
 
Gene Van Horn said:
With the key on you should have power to both sides where you plug in fuse, and power to both sides when you have fuse plugged in. Without fuse plugged in and power to only one side in fusebox leads me to believe you have a problem in the fuse box itself.
Click to expand...
I think you intended to write that you will only have power to 1 side until the fuse is plugged in. The fuse is what provides continuity unless it's blown. Just test for voltage on both sides of the fuse while plugged in and key on. Just measure on the face where the metal slits are where the ampacity is labeled.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
Yes, my bad. Im getting confused here myself .With the key on If his ccc1 fuse test good on both sides he should have power to the pins at the module harness.
 
achalmersman said:
I think you intended to write that you will only have power to 1 side until the fuse is plugged in. The fuse is what provides continuity unless it's blown.
Click to expand...

A little confusion previously but I completely understand now.
With my car, when I pull the fuse out of the CCC1 outlet I have power showing on the left pin but not on the right. When I put the fuse back in place I have power on both sides. I assume this is proper. With this said I think I have completed all the tests people have recommended. However, I am still not confident enough to pin point the problem as being the control module until someone can possibly tell me based on the results of the tests that this is fact the defective part needed.
Please advise.
 
I need a quick summary. Has fuel pressure? Has no spark? has no inj pulse?
If you followed the no start tree what did it say?
 
No disintegrations said:
I need a quick summary. Has fuel pressure? Has no spark? has no inj pulse?
If you followed the no start tree what did it say?
Click to expand...

Followed all the test instructions provided.
  • No Inj Pulse
  • No Spark
  • Check Engine Light Displays
  • All Fuses are good now. The fuse behind the Alternator (hotwire) was blown but I replaced it.
  • Fuel Pressure at 38
  • Fuel Pump sounds when ignition is intiated
 
At least separate the module from the coilpack. See if the potting wax is solid, melted or completely gooey inside. If one of the last two, that is a good clue.

If there is a junkyard near you, modules may be available used. Late 80's FWD GM cars with 3800 engines have the same module. As long as the plug is the exact same, they will work. Being in NC, you have a good chance of finding one that is not crushed yet.
 
Did you recheck the module harness to see if you now have power to p and m pins,only takes a minute. Should have power to both pins.
 
Gene Van Horn said:
Did you recheck the module harness to see if you now have power to p and m pins,only takes a minute. Should have power to both pins.
Click to expand...

I asked before if I tested correctly and received no reply. Maybe you could verify the exact location of P and M pins. If I disconnect the wiring harness from the module there are 14 pins is Pin P and M the last one and the 3rd last one?
 
John Larkin said:
At least separate the module from the coilpack. See if the potting wax is solid, melted or completely gooey inside. If one of the last two, that is a good clue.
Click to expand...

Isn't there a gasket that separates the two? Are you saying it's a good idea to ruin the integrity of the gasket in order to conduct a visual test and then purchase a new gasket to put it back in place? i was hoping there was a better solution but if you think it's necessarily in order to positively determine which part is defective I'm willing to risk destroying the gasket.
 
Relax. People separate modules and coil packs all the time. Or you could order some X-ray specs from a comic book. Good luck with your car.
 
John Larkin said:
Relax. People separate modules and coil packs all the time. Or you could order some X-ray specs from a comic book. Good luck with your car.
Click to expand...

Stunning advice John. I'm pretty relaxed and was well aware that the procedure of separating the control module from coil pack had been conducted before. However, I was under the impression that it usually was conducted with the intent to replace a known defective part. Is it possible you have a Captain Crunch Decoder Ring handy that might be able to test the Ignition Control Module vise a visual inspection that would warrant a gasket replacement if the control module checks out OK?
 
there is a tester for the coilpack module called the ignition simulator for around 130 bucks from casper
if you dont have power at pin M of the module connector with key on then that needs to be rectified first

i gave you the easy then gave you the link to the no start from the gm manual which is written for a first day mechanic then gave you an easier link to a tool that would help to determine your no start for those who just dont have the ability to understand a meter
heres the cci diagram . A is pin closest to the firewall , P is on the end toward radiator
 

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I appreciate everyone who provided assistance to help me figure out the No Start problem I was experiencing.

A HUGE thank You goes out to achalmersman who took the time to call me and provide detailed step by step instructions to individually test every component in order to conclude the defective part to be the Ignition Control Module. A process that eliminated the need to purchase Caspers $130 tester.

My intent now is to order the aftermarket control module from Kirbans for $99. Once the TR6 becomes available in the fall I will surely order one.

I will repost once I receive the aftermarket control module to confirm the repair is complete and the car is once again running.
 
RoadShreader said:
I appreciate everyone who provided assistance to help me figure out the No Start problem I was experiencing.

A HUGE thank You goes out to achalmersman who took the time to call me and provide detailed step by step instructions to individually test every component in order to conclude the defective part to be the Ignition Control Module. A process that eliminated the need to purchase Caspers $130 tester.

My intent now is to order the aftermarket control module from Kirbans for $99. Once the TR6 becomes available in the fall I will surely order one.

I will repost once I receive the aftermarket control module to confirm the repair is complete and the car is once again running.
Click to expand...

Make sure you get a ACdelco module ... otherwise you WILL have issues
 
RoadShreader said:
I already ordered the $99 aftermarket one from Kirbans. Seems to have been tested and approved by Richard Clark. I only need it to last a month or so until the TR6 becomes available to order.

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/44223/AFTERMARKET+IGNITION+MODULE+#7639.html

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/44016/TR-6+High+Tech+Ignition+System+#+7442.html
Click to expand...
You should be fine then. Most trouble with modules is at high load not just cruising around .
 
RoadShreader said:
I already ordered the $99 aftermarket one from Kirbans. Seems to have been tested and approved by Richard Clark. I only need it to last a month or so until the TR6 becomes available to order.

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/44223/AFTERMARKET+IGNITION+MODULE+#7639.html

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/44016/TR-6+High+Tech+Ignition+System+#+7442.html
Click to expand...

Tested in what applications .. Stock 13-14 psi cars??

If its not gonna be in a car with the boost turned up then wont matter much
 
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