Copper RTV for turbo

[frdstang93]

Does anyone know if copper RTV will work to seal the turbo flange to the exhaust manifold? I know originally these came without a gasket but when I removed mine there was a broken copper gasket in there.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I never used a gasket there..... just file both faces flat, to take off any raised metal/burrs, then wipe them off with a cloth, before bolting them up.

Chuck

 

[frdstang93]

I never used a gasket there..... just file both faces flat, to take off any raised metal/burrs, then wipe them off with a cloth, before bolting them up.

Chuck

Do you think running both surfaces across a wire wheel will do the trick?

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I would suggest a flat file, wire wheels are great for cleaning the threads of a bolt or removing surface rust.

Chuck

 

[frdstang93]

Ok, thats what I'll do. Thank you for your help.

 

[Heg87t]

Wouldn't the RTV be cheap insurance?

 

[blackmonte]

I use High temp RTV red on mine , I use it on the headers also

 

[frdstang93]

Yeah, I think I will do both, a thin application of RTV couldnt hurt anything. I have read a lot about people using the RTV between the header and head and that seems to work for some and not for others, I am still torn on that.

 

[turbo nasty]

just use a SCE copper gasket and be done

 

[87NAT]

I use RJC gaskets between turbo-header, DP to turbo, and header -head. No leaks and no red sealant.

 

[yullose]

RTV will work between the headers and heads because the head pulls heat out of the headers and the RTV won't burn off.

The temps seen at the turbo inlet are far beyond what any RTV silicone will tolerate. Best bet is to use a copper or graphite style gasket or none at all.

Any time I've tried using it at the turbo, it gets burned off.

Red/orange RTV works great at the header to head flange though.

 

[Just a Six??]

A good 14" file (or longer) & a beltsander will make it flat. A gasket is still good insurance if its of good quality & it wont blow out at 25 lbs boost.

 

[V8Killer]

A good 14" file (or longer) & a beltsander will make it flat. A gasket is still good insurance if its of good quality & it wont blow out at 25 lbs boost.

X2:smile:

 

[richardv6]

rtv

i use copper high temp rtv and so far no problems.

 

[frdstang93]

THanks for your posts I appreciate the help.

 

[Boost231]

you didnt say how far the car is apart. if the header is off take it some where and have it machined flat as well as the housing for the turbo. if you do that you wont need a gasket since they will both be flat. if the header is on the car still this is what i would do and have on my car right now, get one of jason cramers RJC Racing the leaders in inovative Buick performance gaskets for that area. i have one thats going on about 3 years now if i remember right with no leaks or anything of that kind. here is alittle info about it off jasons site

Turbo Header Gasket; this 3 bolt gasket goes between the Turbo and the header. We specifically designed this gasket to provide a leak proof seal. Most other gaskets even the copper ones leak at this junction.

We use MILAM Laminate PSS130 material. Although this is very expensive it is extremely good at sealing pressurized turbo exhaust systems. It is rated for a continuous service temperature of 1832 Deg F. and 130 PSI. Compressibility is 15% and a recovery of 55%. It also features a .004 Stainless Tang insert core.

All this adds up to the ultimate gasket. We will be working on head flange gaskets made from this material as well
$12

 

[frdstang93]

I actually have the motor out of the car so that is something that could be done if I can find a shop around here that would do it for a reasonable price.

 

[mybuick]

copper rtv on all exhaust serfaces even the crossover.

 

[Joe 1320]

I use a thin "skin" on all exhaust joints for a perfect seal, no blow outs or leaks in the 15 years I've used it. That includes the turbo downpipe to elbow joint. It's been apart a couple times too.

 

[TurboDave]

IMHO if you don't have a significant leak at that point, putting a gasket in there (no matter the type) is an extremely bad idea. The one thing putting a gasket between the turbo and header will certainly accomplish will be to warp both surfaces, pretty significantly as a matter of fact. The bolts on the outer circle of the mating surface and the extreme heat will pull the "ears" toward each other and the surfaces will NEVER again work without a gasket being required. Until the surfaces are made flat again.

I use ultra copper (thin surface) and have never needed a gasket. Not there or the header flanges.

The turbo gaskets are nothing more than a band aid fix for those that don't want to bother lapping the surfaces with a file.

If your headers leak, one probably has warped header flanges. Can easilly be fixed by a machine shop.

If your turbo/header flange leaks, the turbo flange and or header flange is also warped.

Although the turbo/header surface rarely warps on it's own. Many folks that buy the gasket for that surface do so on bad advice or they just think it's a good idea at the time. Once installed the damage is done, they are now warped.

About the only reason for any leakage, warping to occur there (assuming a gasket has never previously been used) would be a new turbo with a less than ideal surface.