So I picked up a code 41 on my scan master but I have one of the caps that has the light on it. If the light is flashing that means that's set correctly right? So I can just start check wires rather then messing with the cap and adjusting all that again correct? Thanks in advance
Cam sensor cap (Jump to post 14 for update)
- Thread starter jerritt
- Start date
Do you mean flashing while the car is on? I've never used one of the caps with the built in light but if it works like a cam tool with the led, every time the window passes the sensor I would imagine it would flash. With that code, I would verify your cam sensor is set properly
I installed mine with the Casper LED tool rather than the cap... Instructions just seemed easier.
Based on the instructions for the LED cap, the continuous/rapid flashing means it is functioning properly. See link: http://www.installationinstructions.com/107112.pdf
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Based on the instructions for the LED cap, the continuous/rapid flashing means it is functioning properly. See link: http://www.installationinstructions.com/107112.pdf
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- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Try switching the cap back to stock.
I can try switching it back but to see if that helps. But if that turns out to not be the cause and I throw back on the new caspers one where should I go from there as far as checking wires? Check it at the wires coming to the sensor or check it at the ecu for volts. ...I'm just a little confused because I thought once the car loses signal it will start dumping fuel to get you home but not start again ...mine doesn't do that it will fire right back up and I can continue to drive it but obviously it's really rough ...i know this comes up a lot but all the ones that came up while searching just seemed to lead to a bad cap which I'm not thinking is the problem since the led is flashing thanks again
Yeah that was one of the first things I did when I suspected it was a wiring issue I checked there and checked all the prongs at the ecu and made sure they were all secure....would it help if I said the car starts fine every time and will run great until it gets up to temp around 170...that's when it starts to break up and throw a code ....thanks again for the responses everyone this is just a little frustrating
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
Can you swap the ign module?
Make sure it's a GM unit.
No idk anyone around me with one that would let me swap parts ....there has to be a way to check to make sure that the ecu and ignition module are getting readings from the cam sensor but I don't know which wires at each to check and what kinda volts the should be getting....I did notice when putting the caspers unit back on that there were some water marks on the inside of the cap ....but when I installed it it was dry but didn't change anything
Have you checked your ignition control module? Pulled it off from the coil pack? (Disconnect battery before unscrewing and pulling the plug out) My ignition control module melted... You could notice melted glue stains on the ignition control module sides.
My GN would turn on with hesitation and run like crap. After riding it, I would turn it off. Come back to it and it would not come back on. I knew my fuel system was new and motor was new, except for that damn coil pack. So I got curious. Upon taking it apart from the ignition control module, I realized the real problem. Yikes.
I bought a replacement from Kirban Performance, and I bought the coil pack from them. Might as well do it all, right? Pretty cheap from them. Car turned on like a champ. Good luck!
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My GN would turn on with hesitation and run like crap. After riding it, I would turn it off. Come back to it and it would not come back on. I knew my fuel system was new and motor was new, except for that damn coil pack. So I got curious. Upon taking it apart from the ignition control module, I realized the real problem. Yikes.
I bought a replacement from Kirban Performance, and I bought the coil pack from them. Might as well do it all, right? Pretty cheap from them. Car turned on like a champ. Good luck!
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Okay I replaced the ignition module and coil pack. Mine didn't look as bad as yours but still a little gooey and had a cracked in it so I just went ahead and replaced it....now the idle seems smoother but when I drop it in gear I can smell tons of gas and it feels like it's missing....I checked the wires inside coil pack and plug wires 3 times so I'm confident that's not it...I also noticed the led light on the cap went from flashing really fast to a solid light while running don't know why that is ...where would you guys go from here? I'm lost
okay update and still looking for some help. I traded some parts for a brand new standard unit ignition module and threw it on with a coil pack that is brand new that has been sitting for the past year on a shelf I don't even remember where I got it. put them on with no change so I went back to the cam sensor and drive this time I checked for up/down play on brass circle with window thingy and with a little more force but nothing crazy just more then a jiggle and the whole damn thing tried to come out of the car so I stopped removed it and found that the dowel pin at the bottom had broke. so I drained oil and cut the filter and luckily enough found the piece that had broken checked oil for flakes or anything like that and found nothing so I might have just lucked out with that one idk yet lol but threw new oil in and I put a new stainless dowel pin on drive and have no play at all now. so I put it back in set the led cam sensor and started it ...no change, just smells like gas and idles and runs like it has a massive cam.... with nothing left to swap and knowing that coil pack has probably sat for over a year I went ahead and threw the stock one back and boom everything smoothed out at idle and light throttle. decided to open it up with the boost only set at about 12psi and at 3/4 throttle it started breaking up big time and backfiring, I guess it may still be the coilpack as its still stock for what I know and cant keep up at higher rpms... or maybe im just unlucky and both cam sensors (stock, casper led) are bad as I tried both. neither have any sign of being hit by cam drive. are the caspers units notorious for going bad quickly or being a dud from the beginning? im no longer getting a code 41 after fixing drive shaft so that may have been wobbling around but never hit either sensor. is there anyway of testing the coilpack under load? and I will probably just get another coilpack just because I don't want it doing anything to my new module where is a good vendor to get one? im going to have to find where mine came from and hopefully they will do something it was definitely a vendor on here and has gold spark plug towers if that tells you anything. sorry for the long response I can only work on it during weekends I go home from school so im trying to get as much info before I get there. thanks guys for any questions you can help answer
626gn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
I would loan you my Casper's Ignition Simulator to test your coil pack and module but it only works with a first or second generation AC Delco module, which you don't have. I'm not so sure I would trust that new Standard module you have now or even the coil pack. Just because an aftermarket part is new out of the box doesn't necessarily mean it works properly on our cars.
Cutting out under load sometimes points to ignition issues. If it starts happening only after the car warms up that is possibly another hint of ignition issues. The symptoms you are having (smells like gas and idles and runs like it has a massive cam) are the same symptoms (along with others) I had when my module went bad and the car was running on less than 6 cylinders. If it were my car I would start by getting my hands on a 100% guaranteed known good module and coil pack. Even if it doesn't solve your problem this is one of those items you should have a spare of anyway. Eventually, you'll need it and it comes in handy when troubleshooting. Same deal with the ECU. If you do get your hands on a first generation (#25526449) or second (#24503624) geniune AC Delco unit, my offer to lend you my tester still stands. If you can't find these modules (they are very hard to find these days) you at least need one that was tested on a car with no issues.
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basically I've tried in this order,
1)unplugging the camper sensor first before doing anything else and the car would die instantly but I saw somewhere that with 60lb injectors that could happen idk
2)then checked the led cam sensor that was on there for damage and proper setting no change, then threw stock one on and set it with a volt meter with no change put back on led unit
3) replaced module with standard one and a new accell coil pack no change
4)checked cam sensor and drive again and found the dowel pin at the bottom of the drive to be broken which allowed me to pull the whole shaft out put new dowel pin in and now has zero play at bronze circle on top, installed cam sensor ...no change except code 41 didn't come back
5) took accell coil pack off and put stock one on and the feeling of a giant cam went away and smoothed everything out went 3/4 throttle and if fell on its face backfiring something fierce
I appreciate the offer 626gn I wish I knew someone around me to swap these types of easy parts but o well I guess I will try unplugging the cam sensor again to see what happens since that's free and will let me move away from that damn thing
And just because, I will try the stock model with the stock coil pack it may have just been the broken shaft I fixed but I didn't see any damage on cam sensor ....would the ignition simulator work on stock coil pack and module? If so that would be awesome of you but only if you're close I don't want you to mail it and chance it braking in mail or getting lost and it looking like I did it and get a bad rep because without this board i would have set this car on fire years ago lol thanks again man for any ideas.
1)unplugging the camper sensor first before doing anything else and the car would die instantly but I saw somewhere that with 60lb injectors that could happen idk
2)then checked the led cam sensor that was on there for damage and proper setting no change, then threw stock one on and set it with a volt meter with no change put back on led unit
3) replaced module with standard one and a new accell coil pack no change
4)checked cam sensor and drive again and found the dowel pin at the bottom of the drive to be broken which allowed me to pull the whole shaft out put new dowel pin in and now has zero play at bronze circle on top, installed cam sensor ...no change except code 41 didn't come back
5) took accell coil pack off and put stock one on and the feeling of a giant cam went away and smoothed everything out went 3/4 throttle and if fell on its face backfiring something fierce
I appreciate the offer 626gn I wish I knew someone around me to swap these types of easy parts but o well I guess I will try unplugging the cam sensor again to see what happens since that's free and will let me move away from that damn thing
And just because, I will try the stock model with the stock coil pack it may have just been the broken shaft I fixed but I didn't see any damage on cam sensor ....would the ignition simulator work on stock coil pack and module? If so that would be awesome of you but only if you're close I don't want you to mail it and chance it braking in mail or getting lost and it looking like I did it and get a bad rep because without this board i would have set this car on fire years ago lol thanks again man for any ideas.
626gn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
The Caspers tester is only useful if you have a first or second generation AC Delco module (part #25526449 or 24503624). It doesn't do well with aftermarket parts because it was never designed for them. If this is not what you have then sending you my tester would not make sense since the results will not be reliable. Coincidentally, I just had this conversation with John Spina (Caspers) couple weeks ago. The tester was designed around the original Delco module because at the time that was the only one available. Different modules will give different results which may not be accurate.
Your #5 comment above is interesting. Symptoms improved somewhat with the coil change and only craps out under load. Typical symptoms of a bad module and/or coil but I could be very wrong. Should also check your plug wires, plugs and gap.
Like you said, do the easy and free stuff first, then start hunting down a KNOWN good coil and module and go from there.
Your #5 comment above is interesting. Symptoms improved somewhat with the coil change and only craps out under load. Typical symptoms of a bad module and/or coil but I could be very wrong. Should also check your plug wires, plugs and gap.
Like you said, do the easy and free stuff first, then start hunting down a KNOWN good coil and module and go from there.
Plugs are NKG 24 at .028 gap but I will throw a new set in as I'm sure they're all soaked by now with the code 41 I had earlier. Voltage low 14 high 13 under load and pins at module are good at ecu still a very small amount of white stuff in just the pin that does happen to go to cam sensor but can't get out and I didn't want to pour liquid in there to completely clean but code 41 went away after fixing broke drive. What should I be looking for power wise for the cam sensor at ecu and module and at sensor it self? Car would restart after it got hot and 41 appeared doesn't that mean possibly bad connection from sensor to module? I'm trying to get a list and ways to check them so when I get home I can do them all at one time so keep ideas coming i really appreciate them.
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